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The Inheritance Of Hong Band Tailor Zheng Aihuang

2016/5/30 23:07:00 42

Hong Band TailorZheng AihuangSkills

The red gang tailor was a special group emerging in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. They were experienced apprentices, experienced and highly skilled. They used to be the scene of the crowd in Shanghai. In the history of Chinese clothing, they wrote a heavy brush, creating five first: the first suit in China, the first set of Chinese tunic suit, the first Western-style clothes shop, the first western suit theory monograph, the first western style Craft School in Ningbo.

However, as time goes by, Shanghai has gradually lost its legendary color. The custom industry has gradually declined along with the rise of the garment factories. The red gang tailors and their descendants have changed their careers and become lost.

Zheng Aihuang, a relatively young generation who has passed through the years, has been waiting for an opportunity to do something for the industry he has been engaged in for nearly thirty years.

Zheng Aihuang's red band tailor, who was the father of the Shanghai Western-style clothes industry and the father of the Chinese tunic suit, was honored by his uncle Chang Linzhu and our famous clothing master Yu Yuanfang.

Like most family members of the red gang tailor, his father Zheng Amao began to follow Sun Changlin's skills when he was 13 years old, and he was the main teacher in the spring and autumn clothing company in Shanghai. He also enlisted apprentices and taught red band skills in person.

Zheng Aihuang grew up under such an environment. At the age of 16, he formally worshipped his father as a teacher and became a new generation of descendants.

The tailor is a craftsmanship. It relies on words and deeds. The orthodox red gang tailors are mostly trained in strict professional training, and have no difficulty in cutting skills, hand work, car work and hot work.

Zheng Aihuang was intelligent and willing to endure hardships, and soon learned something.

In 2000, he was hired by Fenghua Yi Mei dress and Ningbo Wun Shun dress as the head of Technology Department and chief technology officer, and in busy production practice, he explored a lot of practical experience and improved technology.

After that, he was also seen by Hangzhou's famous Gao Ding enterprise, and served as director of the technology department.

In the meantime, he cooperated with the famous British edition teachers to complement each other's strengths and talents. He also won the title of "top ten edition teacher" in the clothing industry of Zhejiang province and became an important figure in the enterprise.

Zheng Aihuang did a good job in the enterprise, but he saw the red gang tailors fading day by day.

"Now the orthodox red gang descendants, there are only more than 100 people in the whole country, and most of them are sixty or seventy years old people. I am the youngest generation."

He realized that in order to restore the brilliance of this 100 year old art, the younger generation needed to carry out the banner of publicizing the red gang culture and cultivating the red gang successors.

In the second half of 2015, he ignored his persistence and resigned resolutely and returned to his hometown, Fenghua, the birthplace of Hong Bang tailor. He founded the "love Huang Hong Bang clothing design studio" and "Huang Hong Gang customized training class".

In December of the same year, he received the approval of the local government's application for the red gang's heritage, and became one of the representatives of the two inheritors of Fenghua red gang tailoring skills.

  

Hong Bang tailor

Originated in Fenghua, Ningbo, became famous in Shanghai, the peak of development, it can be described as "one coat is hard to find", Sun Zhongshan, Zhou Enlai, Liu Shaoji, Jiang Jieshi, Xu Xilin......

All the famous figures in history have enjoyed the service of the red gang and praised it.

Later, with the popularity of industrial production lines, people began to be obsessed with the efficiency of machines and the status of the representatives of garment brands. Tailoring shops were eliminated by garment factories, and custom tailored clothes were replaced. Tailors, representing traditional crafts, were gradually neglected and forgotten.

In the past two years, with the improvement of the quality of life and the change of consumption habits, people no longer satisfied with the identity worship brought by LOGO, instead of pursuing the personality and culture behind the costumes. This brought new opportunities for the red gang tailor who had been dormant for many years.

"I am the successor of the red band tailor, and I am very sad to see that the red band is facing a lost situation.

Maybe my personal strength is very small, but I still want to do everything I can to do something for the red gang.

According to Zheng Aihuang, he plans to set up a high quality custom shop in Hangzhou, and even intends to create a Hong Band tailoring Culture Research Institute through cooperation, so that more clothing lovers can understand and learn about the lost red gang.

skill

To Zheng Aihuang's relief, her daughter is reading now.

Clothing design

Professional, has a very strong interest in Hong Gang skills.

"I will not force children to inherit this career, but if they are interested, I will spare no effort to teach them."

"First of all, the problem of inheriting people."

In the course of more than 100 years of development, the Hong Band tailor has formed four skills, nine potentials and sixteen character standards in garment production.

"Four skills" refers to four points that should be paid attention to when cutting, sewing, sewing and ironing. "Nine potential" refers to the shape of the different parts of the suit, and the "Sixteen word standard" refers to the standard of the clothes that people wear on the human body, so that the clothes can fit well, and can also cover up the defects of the human body.

And to master these skills well, there is no 35 years of skill to lose.

"Apprentices need to practise all kinds of basic skills in order to improve the speed and strength of using needles, such as finding needles in hot water, pulling needles on cowhide, etc. nowadays, few young people have such patience and vigour."

"Second is the customizing concept of consumers."

According to Zheng Aihuang, each custom made suit, from material selection to finished work, has to be measured by detailed body data, more than 130 processes, manual sewing of more than 10000 stitches, and detailed work on lattice, hand-held keyhole, barge head and so on.

The overall quality and the ingenuity of the details are the key to the difference between the products of the industrial assembly line and the price of each garment.

"The cheapest must be 8000 yuan, 2-3 yuan more expensive, or even more than 50 thousand."

This is obviously not acceptable to ordinary people, and even if they have such consumption power, they may not fully understand the craftsman spirit and cultural connotation behind customization.


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