Study: Who Is Still Reading These Words On Fashion Week? Critical Reviews Rush Out Of Circles.

Nowadays, no matter who is invited to enter the fashion brand's fashion show every season, no one is worried that they will miss the novelty in the show.
In the show, photographers' photos, videos, editors' Instagram and friends circle can spread all over the world in a few minutes. For the industry, every season's reviews and reports are still one of the traditional traditions of the fashion industry for many years. Whether it is analyzing the designers' innovation in the quarter, explaining the cultural references, allusions or inspirations of brand references, or combining the brand and group performance, the industry is still looking forward to reading articles from famous commentators such as Suzy Menkes, Tim Blanks or Cathy Horyn.
"The former fashion show is only open to the top media people, buyers, and so on. Now it's more like a nationwide entertainment and brand marketing campaign," said Tang cream, deputy publisher of Vogue clothing and beauty. In the 3 industry, she was famous for her fashionable fashion reviews. She explained to BoF, "the audience of high fashion is only a small number of people, and now it is the vast middle class, the public."
"So the media professionals who participate in fashion shows are different. There used to be very few people. After all, there were fewer fashion magazines in the past, and the editors of only a few magazines in the original place are now forming an international system, not only in print media, "she said.
Tang said that because of the lack of digital camera's instant image transmission tools, and the lack of the panorama and fashion detail pictures, the text was mainly used to assist in the description of pictures, like the show did not have music at the time, and some detailed language descriptions of each Look. Later, fashion gradually evolved into a multi-dimensional expression of cultural integration. Fashion reviews are no longer limited to description only. With more professional views, commentators now express their understanding, observation and judgement of a brand's fashion this season.
People who provide inspiration and show analysis are not just commentators and reporters. Instagram account @Pam_boy principal person Pierre A. M pel pel believes there is still a gap between fashion media and their audience. The "audience" mentioned here refers to the wider meaning of fashion lovers or potential consumers.
"I will avoid being too small. Fashion is a universal language that everyone can read, "M pel said in an interview. He also said that the real fashion news that he wants to achieve is not available to fashion media nowadays.
　 What does a new generation of commentators and reporters look like?
M pel e claims to be a fashion journalist. He reviews fashion reviews in the form of screen reviews of famous media, comments on the bottom of the post, or private dialogue with screenshots and insiders and followers, supplemented by reviews. Last year, he even launched a paper publication called screenshot.
This fashion review matches the roll call supervision of brand initiatives, and the humorous map with the theme of "Fashion Meme", similar to the more famous @Diet Prada. The principal of these accounts has said that the starting point of publishing their own content is not brand, but rather a group member who tries to serve their diverse and diverse status.
China's fashion new media magnet (@ magnetic China) is also working hard to bring live coverage to the local fashion story.
The three big plates of the public number of the magnet include the "fashionable scene", mainly the show and report of Shanghai fashion week. He Zhi, editor in chief of the magnetic instrument, said that they have reported the Shanghai fashion week for the first time in April 2015, and the founding members of the editorial department have experience in reporting or reviewing the fashion week at home and abroad.
"Show review" or "Fashion Week" report is to provide readers with some new information and some new ideas. Journalists need empathy to understand what readers want to know, and also need curiosity and exploration. Try to find something nice and interesting in the show, so long as they possess these qualities and express them clearly, the report is interesting enough.
He is not a fashion critic. "I'm too far away from the designer. So far, I don't think I know enough about this industry. I don't know their pain, nor should I blame them for their shortcomings, "he said.
He believes that professional fashion critics should be professionally superior to designers before they are qualified to comment. "Higher than that" means that you have seen enough success and failure of designers. You should at least do Mita Kihiro when giving advice, "He Zhi said." as a commentator, they can only tell them a variety of possibilities in the future, but can not make decisions, because in fact, you have no way to take responsibility for your judgment. "
Fashion show is "breaking the circle", but authority is only in the circle.
During the fashion week in Shanghai, China has launched a comprehensive report on a large number of designer brands, mainly based on WeChat public image and text. During the fashion week, the organizers of the fashion week, together with the brand, now want to experience the "breaking circle", which is open to the public and is still being disseminated in the Vlog short video.
Vlog, with its personal aesthetic and filming style as its selling point, focuses more on "people" in fashion shows rather than clothes itself, which actually constitutes the "democratization" side of Fashion Week show and show show.
During the fashion week of Shanghai in April this year, a fashion blogger named "Miss pancake" also released a Vlog, recording the process of shuttling between the show, flash shop and Ontimeshow exhibition. She transformed the activities of the fashion week into a part of her personal lifestyle by changing the activities of the day, the transformation between different activities and places, the Vlog of the show and the short commentary.
Banana videos in Beijing are mostly viewed from the perspective of star actors who are involved in fashion shows. The latest issues include the opinion leader Yoko, who is the show of Chinese women's wear brand Lily during the New York fashion week.
This section of Vlog shot her in front of New York show, make-up and hair. This may be an easy to understand fashion week's "behind the scenes story" report, which may include Cui Dan, a veteran in fashion circles, and a face that may be more familiar to Vlogger viewers, their friends or assistant Vlogger viewers.
Another "democratization" fashion show commentary, the audience between professional readers and the public, is facing a wider range of fashion industry people, and fashion lovers who are proficient in brand history.
This part of the commentators will not spend too much time on introducing specific shows. They will give more comments on the hot topics of the industry, discuss with the like-minded people, make micro-blog or WeChat a personal output channel of content, and intersperse more interesting and easier to read fragmented views and comments, which is also different from the previous fashion blog authors who are good at textual research and writing long articles.
Mars Jiang is a fashion public relations working and living in Paris. His more well-known identity may be @Mars amateur fashion reviews with 150 thousand micro-blog fans.
He said he had never written a professional show review. "It's usual to make some unobjectivity" after reading in micro-blog. When it comes to "making fashion stalks", he said, "I always liked to look at pictures and talk, but I usually went blind, mainly because I felt funny."
But he admits that he doesn't know much about @Pam_boy bloggers such as Instagram, nor does he think @Hautelemode's expression is very pleasing.
It is necessary to ask whether there is a need for fashion show reviews. His answer is, "professional fashion show reviews are essential. As an ordinary reader, I think New York Times, The Cut and other media commentary is quite readable.
"Show reviews, or show shows are still important for brands. Now everyone is fashion designer, who can express their opinions on the Internet, who is copying today, and who is going to stir up food tomorrow, whether it is good or bad, is also a topic, "he said from the perspective of fashion public relations.
"I personally feel that there is no absolute objective fairness. It is subjective and colorful. The professional fashion media must be relatively objective, so it is not easy to offend the brand. If we are from the media, we still prefer to have a personal style rather than a more essential one, "he said." but since the media has collected brand money, how to maintain consistent style is also very difficult. "
In Tang's opinion, whether a commentary can be established is closely related to the interest relationship between its media and brand. "The first thing to say is that fashion reviews only exist in newspaper media, and fashion magazines will be legendary editors, but usually there will be no fashion critics."
She said that compared with the fashion magazine editors who also read and displayed the news, some of the commentators' newspapers were less dependent on luxury advertisers. "So these people can freely express their views. Traditional fashion magazines rely on luxury advertisers. They are much more focused on the vanguard fashion vision and are not likely to read any sharp criticism."
"If the profit model of the media is similar to traditional fashion magazines, they sound the same," she said. "It doesn't mean that the show is high above, but why do we still respect the commentators of these newspaper systems? Some are the genes of their news media. Since the media wants to make real voice, it is also contrary to their profit pattern.
"Fashion show reviews are never meant to be popular," popular "and" authoritative "are not the same thing," Tang said. "People in the industry should have a comprehensive look at a show, and fashion bloggers are extremely fragmented in terms of text expression and picture sharing, which is of little help to the industry.
"Do you really use @DietPrada to simulate Tim Blanks? I don't think this is true. It doesn't mean that Diet Prada came out, it shocked the authority of Tim Blanks, "she said." for example, a typical Chinese fashion media personage will open WeChat to read his comments, and will also look at bloggers on Instagram, which are very natural.
　 Where is the next generation of Tim Blanks?
Nowadays, the number of well-known commentators who work in the mainstream Western media is still small, and the young backbone who can be respected in the industry such as Alexander Fury, Anglo Flaccavento and so on seems to be less.
But Tang is not optimistic about the possibility of the next generation of fashion critics who are likely to be the industry authority in China. "First of all, China does not have such a newspaper system in the West. If you do not rely on such a platform as newspaper, you will be a person in a" humane society "at home. It will be very difficult.
In China, most of the fashion show reports came from the magazine's fashion editor rather than the commentator's pen. The mainstream media of current politics, finance and commerce also have less fashion shows, or invite commentators to seriously discuss and analyze fashion releases.
The real voice may also be born in the independent blogger's own media, to some extent, the platform can protect the voice of independent commentators.
Ho Chi, a magnet, mentioned that they have made many adjustments from the beginning of the fashion week, from the early stage with the strong personal style of the founding member to the later stage. "Because when the team is growing stronger, it is more conducive to the growth and survival of a group to maintain everyone's passing homework than to let everyone" fly themselves ".
"Platform operation is more mature and more objective and neutral, and from the bottom level, we constantly unify the tonality of the media and export values," he said. Speaking of cultivating new people, he said: "there are many things that need time and energy to cultivate. There is no chance of opportunistic development. I feel that to write something with depth, it is necessary to observe a thing for a long time and enough volume."
Sun Runzhou, 27, is a sociology PhD student living in Paris. After school, she wrote an English show for bloggers blogger Diane Pernet A Shaded View on Fashion. Although he is not a professional fashion designer or Fashion Journalist, the fashion enthusiast for many years said he could write fashion reviews in his work to help him learn fashion in all directions.
"The first time I saw Diane, my first question was to ask how to write reviews," Sun Runzhou said. Pernet's advice to him is reading comments from Blanks, Menkes, Fury and Robin Givhan et al. "More importantly, editors conduct guidance and checks in the actual reporting process," he said.
He usually read Vanessa Friedman, Sarah Mower and others' comments, and also read Tang Frost's articles. "Good commentary also needs to be cited and cited. Some shows are also of literary value. Even if it does not rise to literary value, it is at least intellectual. "
"But it's not easy to write your own imagination, even if you have a public relations draft, you have to do a lot of homework," he said. For example, if you want to write a designer how to do it, at least understand the same type, style, even nationality, or contemporary designer.
As more and more practitioners of the fashion media enter the international fashion system and accumulate experience, the international fashion system based on Europe and America may also be the cradle for training the next China Tim Blanks.
"You see, at the fashion show, these so-called traditional commentators are still sitting in the first row, which in itself illustrates something," Tang said. "Not all things are to be entertained. They exist because people in the industry still need these voices.