Valentino Is Reshaped: A Unique Mixture Of Luxury And Inclusiveness.

Don't call her Mousika. "I will not use this word," PierpaoloPiccioli said when talking about Adut Akech. Model AdutAkech was born in southern Sultan. She is 19 years old. PierpaoloPiccioli chose her to represent Valentino. "I like the energy of many different people, not just one person." So if it can not be called inspiration Mousika, it is a medium. The young woman and her family, who had become refugees because of their civil war, eventually became citizens of the world, and she is inspiring PierpaoloPiccioli's transformation of Valentino. He reconciled the seemingly luxurious and inclusive ways in a unique way. In July 2019, he introduced the "richness of diversity" in his senior custom fashion show. In fashion shows and advertising campaigns, Adut embodies this powerful and timely concept.
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Adut Akech Akech image source: Ruth Ossai shooting
On the day that BoF was filming at the resplendent headquarters of PlaceVend me in Paris, Valentino ceased the cease-fire again in southern Sultan. In this protracted conflict, both sides faced confrontation between the southern Sultan government and the opposition. Armed conflict led to Adut, her mother and five brothers and sisters who were forced to go to refugee camps in Kenya at the age of Adut, and then moved to Adelaide, Australia, when she was six years old. "During my growing up, I always lacked self-esteem. In the western world, everyone is different from me. No one accepted me because of my hometown, and when I entered the industry, I was worried about who would be willing to work with a little girl from southern Sultan.
In fact, everyone is willing. She recently bought a house and a car for his mother in Adelaide. She also works with the United Nations High Commissioner for refugees. It is not hard to imagine what her happy life means for the people she helped in charity work: nothing is impossible. "When I'm at work, I try not to think about it and try not to put myself under that pressure," Adut admits. "But it's in my mind." She thinks Valentino is her latest haven. "This is one of the few places where I accept and treat me well and welcome me because of the real me. I could come here to try on my clothes, and I had a bad day just now, but I just left everything behind. Pierpaolo will dress me up to make me really make my own clothes. I like this very much. "
The relationship between them is a real friendship, not just a partnership. "We always say we have to bring her mother to Paris for lunch." Piccioli said. When Ruth Ossai is taking photos, he and Adut dance together, joking, laughing, whispering, enjoying each other's company. She gently fiddled with his hair and smoothed her hair. He kept tidying up her skirt and letting her skirt hang up.
He admits this incongruity: he is a 50 year old Rome designer who is a refugee in Sultan, aged eighteen and nine. He said, "at the beginning, we will talk about music together and talk about Pink Floyd." Adut said, "I've heard a lot of old songs, but I've never heard of Pink Floyd." Pierpaolo said like an elder, "she wants to treat us kindly." Adut said kindly, "Pierpaolo has made me fall in love with the music of the past."
From a professional standpoint, Adut brings a sense of lightness to the sculptural dignity of Piccioli's dress. She knows Piccioli's clothes. "During the fitting process, I tried to express my thoughts, and I could see whether the models really understood what I wanted to achieve. When I was in the spring fitting test, I played the The First Time Ever I SawYour Face, which was sung by Roberta Flack (when I first saw your face), I found that Adut was deeply moved. She knows that there are deeper things, not just clothes. This is where her passion lies. When she tries on clothes, she will shed tears.
"I will, I will," Adut agreed. Under such circumstances, I will remember how far I have gone. It is not tears of sadness, but tears of joy. I realize that my efforts are rewarded. I never expected anything to happen, so this is a pleasant surprise for me.
I think the glorious past can also be contemporary. And it's the models who do that, not the clothes themselves.
They first met in Wanda Square in September 2017. Adut was here to attend the upcoming 2018 spring summer show. Piccioli was smoking downstairs at that time, and the two of them began to talk. "We talked for about 15 to 20 minutes," she recalls. "I just finished my exclusive collaboration with SaintLaurent, so this is my first real fashion season, the second biggest show I've ever had. I was very nervous at that time. We talked about my past experience. He was really cool. I have no idea that he is a designer.
"Then she went upstairs, and I sat on the sofa," Piccioli continued to tell the story. "This is not an instant for me. I was amazed by her past experience, but I didn't know if she could show the kind of beauty that I liked. I can feel it, but I'm not sure. Then, when she walked up to T, she was so charming, so warm and sincere. Of course, Adut is more conscious now, but she always has that kind of charm. "
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Adut Akech Akech image source: Ruth Ossai shooting
When she arrived at Valentino, Piccioli was thinking about the position of fashion in the world when political extremism was destroying society. In March 4, 2018, Italy joined the global shift to populism. The Northern League, led by Matteo Salvini, won a majority of seats in the Senate and the house of Representatives. On this day, Piccioli exhibited its 2018 autumn winter clothing series in Paris. Adut was the highlight of the show, the Assa Baradji compression model from France, and two black girls as the opening and closing models of a well-known Italy fashion show. This is Piccioli's response to racism and anti immigration rhetoric that has led to the rise of Salvini. He said at the time: "a Rome brand using black beauty as a model is contrary to all the xenophobia in Italy." However, he refused to make a political statement. "The aesthetic information expressed by the designer has a deeper meaning."
Deeper is his 2019 spring and summer advanced custom fashion show. On his emotional board is the famous photo taken by CecilBeaton in 1948 for the American version of Vogue, with women wearing fashionable clothes designed by fashion designer Charles James. This photo vividly records the era of the pure custom of fashion as a white privilege. In those days, fashion companies refused to lend their clothes to the first black woman magazine "Ebony". The editor of the magazine had to pay for those clothes. Piccioli photographs two black women dancing in the photo of Beaton. He also thought of the 7 edition of the Italy edition of Vogue, edited by Franca Sozzani, in 2008, and challenged the lack of inclusiveness in the fashion world through the theme of all black models. Of the 65 models chosen by Piccioli for this fashion show, 48 were black. Adut once again served as the opening model.
The unique expression of the advanced custom fashion is to use the maiden body to support the amazing complex and luxurious costumes. As early as the mid 1940s, the Carmen Dell Orefice was only 15 years old when modeling photos for Horst P. Horst, IrvingPenn and Erwin Blumenfeld. But Adut stands for something more important: Piccioli is committed to modernizing the advanced custom garments, not through clothing itself, but through clothes.
"I know that people are striving to modernize advanced custom clothes, even though they may not be so beautiful," he said. "I like to create ideas through dreams." For decades, black women have no right to realize this dream. This fact makes him feel that he must make some efforts. This is the irony of Piccioli's showy costumes. "I think a glorious past can also be contemporary. And it's the models who do that, not the clothes themselves. In the show, black girls go by one by one. You can look at these clothes and look at colors in a different way. Its significance is not only that it is so simple for models to walk on the T stage. This is a brand new perspective.
My job is to bring me an inclusive view of beauty. Street wear is another thing, but when people see black girls wearing high fashion clothes representing the peak of fashion, the work is done.
"My job is to bring me an inclusive view of beauty." Piccioli went on to say, "I think the information of aesthetics will be more powerful. The pictures of those black girls in dream dresses need no word modification. Street wear is another thing, but when people see black girls wearing high fashion clothes representing the peak of fashion, the work is done. Images are more powerful than words. By changing the faces of people who wear clothes, you change people's opinions. This is more effective than any slogan.
He acknowledged that journalists in Italy did not really understand this. (think of the past few years, the largest number of fashion brands in Italy, such as Gucci, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, are all alleged to have implicit racial discrimination.) Ten years ago, the Franca Sozzani's Italy edition "Vogue" all black model special issue was sold out in the world once it was released, except Italy. Piccioli sighed, "sometimes, if something doesn't touch you directly, you won't care about it. I don't think everyone has the courage to say what the real meaning of this fashion show is. They are happy to talk about 10 or 20 ruffles on a dress, but this dress is only part of it. " At the same time, Piccioli insists that everything he does has multiple meanings, just like watching his fashion show audience. As he said at the end of the last fashion show, "they are all different and effective." This shows that fashion can change people's concept in one way or another. But he also thinks consistency is very important. "McLuhan will say so. Symbols and meanings must be consistent.
Source: Adut Akech photo: Ruth Ossai shooting
You are not mistaken. Pierpaolo Piccioli indeed quoted Marshall McLuhan, the pioneer of media theory. Take a step back and think of this Canadian philosopher's most famous "media information" assertion and the link between the Italy designer and Valentino. It is not difficult to understand that Adut Akech is a medium for him, not an inspiration for Mousika. Piccioli has always insisted that he never wanted Adut to be an exotic, a few coloured models that proved his awareness of pluralism. "For fashion show opening or closing, she is the only choice." Piccioli says that to emphasize the charm of Adut on T is beyond her complexion, as she did when she was speaking for Valentino's new perfume, Born in Roma.
The name "Bornin Roma" is very meaningful. Rome is the hometown of Valentino and its founder. It also has special significance for Piccioli. "Rome is an inclusive city: unlike Milan, it has a variety of fashion, drama, politics and intellectual groups. In Rome, everything is mixed, all ages and all social strata. No one will comment on you. Rome will give people a sense of openness. "
Rome also gives Piccioli an outsider's feeling. "When I was a kid, being a Roman was not a cool thing. At that time, people did not think Rome was the fashion capital like Milan. And I come from the town of Nero, a seaside town in the south of Rome. It's about an hour's drive from Rome, so I'm always different from others. I traveled to Rome and my hometown to study in Rome fashion school. At that time, people did not think that fashion is a smart thing. My friends in the church are learning politics. They think I am more advanced. But compared with the students who study fashion together, I am not advanced enough. At that time, I was too poor for the students who studied fashion together, and for my friends, I was too rich. When you are only 20 years old, you always feel that you are less than others and feel that you do not belong to any group. That is not a good experience. You need to grow up to find and stick to your own views before you realize that your differences are actually your strengths. It's your difference that makes you unique.
This is not the first time that Valentino has been working closely with black models. Iman used to be the inspiration for Valentino Garavani. ("but unlike my close cooperation with Adut," Piccioli said, "Adut is the first black model to start and close in Valentino fashion show.") This is not the first time that colored models have been leading perfume advertisements. Naomi Campbell has launched its own perfume series. Liya Kebede has starred in the Calvin Klein 2018 edition of the Eternity perfume advertisement (the original advertisement in 1989 was starred by Christy Turlington). Nevertheless, when Piccioli said that Adut was the first black woman to play the leading role in the new perfume advertisement, I understood what he meant.
Source: Adut Akech photo: Ruth Ossai shooting
The choice is very simple for him. As he said to Valentino's beauty and perfume partner L 'Or e Al, Adut has been opening and closing models for Valentino's fashion show for some time. But Piccioli also admits that his choice has broken the rules, and that is why this choice is a risky move in the world of formulaic perfume advertisements. No need for L 'Or' al marketing team to remind Piccioli that white women will not project themselves into this advertisement. Piccoli is convinced that this situation will change. "Perfume is the dream of all women," he said. "You will not only focus on the complexion of Adut."
"In view of the world we live in today, I don't think people can pay attention to her complexion," ValerieSteele, director of the The Museum at the Fashion Institute ofTechnology, said: "in view of the world we live in today," Museum said.
"I think skin color is related, and it's a good thing. Pierpaolo has a strong view of blacks' hairdressing tables, and in a modern and multicultural world, luxury brands should also recognize the beauty of blacks. A black woman represents the most high-end brand of luxury goods and business. This is a very positive step. But we are still far from the post racist society, so I think skin color is symbolic at many levels. "
Adut also agrees with this view: "I wonder how people will react. Before I came to Europe, I received a very important job in Australia, one of the most important tasks you could receive. It was the cover of a beauty magazine. After the magazine was published, a woman walked into the shop and complained, "I can't replace myself in this cover." So I always remember this experience in my mind. It made me understand people's ignorance and paranoia.
"People like that don't think they are racists," Piccioli added.
"I've never been able to put myself in the ads," Adut continued. "But at some point, I stopped trying to find a similar role in advertising. I accept that advertising will never represent my reality. I can't use those products, but I've never complained about it everywhere. Just let it go. However, I still want to see my own shadow on others, and Naomi gave me hope that I might one day see myself in advertisements. "
Piccioli also thinks Naomi Campbell is a role model. "Last season I wanted to invite her to the show. It wasn't because of her charm. I was embarrassed to read this story, but because she was a woman who fought for her rights. When she walked on T, all the girls were very moved. Not just because of her fame. In a sense, she is a pioneer, and she is still fighting. "
Campbell is always outspoken about racial discrimination she has experienced, even when she reaches the peak of her career. Will young black women like Adut encounter this kind of situation? "Of course," Adut answered without hesitation. "Racial discrimination does not come directly. You need to pay more attention, but I always find it easily. Just yesterday, I just finished my makeup, but my pink color was wrong, and I didn't find it until I came to the right light. In 2019, it could only be attributed to people's lack of awareness. But if you are a makeup artist and come here to work, you should be prepared for everything; if you can't do it, don't pick up the job. And not just makeup artists, but many different professions. I don't like to criticize others: I will try to pay attention to pointing out problems. This can be avoided if more people try to pay attention to it. But in the three years I have been modeling, I really feel more confident about the future. Now, imagine how different the world would be for Adut in 30 years. Campbell has been engaged in modeling for 30 years.
At this moment, I was deeply attracted by the similarities between Pierpaolo and Adut. All two of them are outsiders, but in a different way. Pierpaolo still lives in the inner city, and still goes to town by train every day. He insists that he has never been changed, and has always been the original himself, even though the world has seen him differently because of his success in Valentino. "Of course, the way people look at Adut is different, but she is still the former child. She will not try to be another person. She will not try to hide her feelings. You can sense her feelings. But her heart must be very strong because she is very young. When she was very young, she had to learn not to let things go to her heart. This is what she taught me and insisted on doing her own strength. In such a competitive environment, this is difficult to achieve.
Pierpaolo Piccioli and Adut Akech Akech image source: Ruth Ossai for BoF shooting
The power of self may be the most fundamental link between the two of them. Piccioli insisted that he expressed the same information through the January and July advanced custom fashion series. Consistency, remember?
"You just have to carry on until people's attitudes change," he said. "This is the values I believe in. If you fight for rights, then I believe you are not just for some rights, but for all rights. And he can't find a more suitable medium than Adut Akech to convey his idea.