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Interpretation Of Tim Blanks: How Can The New CP Edge Of Prada And Raf Simons Lead The New Trend?

2020/2/25 10:41:00 2

Prada

The invitation letter of Prada is vague. Please come to the press conference on Sunday noon. It contains a warning, in essence, to make you "do not tell anyone". This is the best way to trigger another hot debate in the fashion industry. The most likely guess is that Raf Simons will continue to join Prada in some way.

Sure enough, now everyone knows what has happened. The heated debate triggered another hot debate on social media. In the fashion world, nothing can inspire imagination more than two of the most outstanding and influential Talents -- Miuccia and Raf. They also act as co creative director of Prada brand and share responsibility for creativity and decision-making.

Prada co chief executive and Miuccia husband Patrizio Bertelli said in the introduction: "this is the first two successful designers in fashion history to start working together." He describes a common culture, human nature and design ideas, which can be traced back to 2005, when Simons joined the Jil Sander under the Prada group. "It's not just a professional relationship, it's a kind of interpersonal relationship." Later, he added, "this is the perfect way to work for those who are not selfish and self centred."

A designer in the traditional sense is a person who must be himself, usually with a genuine sense of self. As Bertelli said, Prada's model is unique, so Miuccia acknowledges, "we don't know where we are going." But at least we can speculate on what might happen when we choose two such unique individuals to cooperate.

Three and a half years ago, two people sat together to talk to System, a semi annual magazine in Paris. This magazine aims to open up the hearts of the big coffee makers in the fashion industry. The deep link between them is obvious. "If I could make a show with him, imagine how much fun we would have," Miuccia said with ecstasy. Raf also admitted that he thought "this is a healthy competition, and he really wants to share his experiences and feelings."

On Sunday, he seemed to find it easier to share. She said she had never worked with anyone and admitted that she had been criticized for this. On the other hand, he said he believed in an open dialogue with other designers: "I think cooperation can enhance results." Simons once collaborated with Dior and his artist friend Sterling Ruby in 2014 autumn and winter series. I remember him dancing around the word "cooperation". In his view, the word is not enough to express the intensity of their joint activities.

Indeed, the compatibility between designers and artists was amazing at that time. This has made an interesting contrast with the similarities between Miuccia and Raf, including the thirst for knowledge, enthusiasm for contemporary art and design, and distrust of all orthodox things. The last thing you want is their cooperation to become an echo room for self questioning. The history of cooperation between Simons and Ruby is indeed a very important moment, and it also provides us with the reason why they will not be trapped in the same small circle. "When we all believe it, we will do it," Simons said on Sunday. "If only one person believes, we will not do it."

Since the announcement of this cooperation, I have been searching for analogies in my mind. Considering that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have long been my fashion benchmarks, it seems fair to find the ideal match from other cooperation. Art has given us the real Picasso and Braque. But imagine Hitchcock (Alfred Hitchcock) and David Lynch (David Lynch) work together. Either David Bowie (David Bowie) and Kate Bush (Kate Bush). Of course, last season Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix collaborated in a series to perfectly integrate their different aesthetics: one plus one equals three, it is a dreamy result for any combination.

In every scene, there will be such a moment when personality is competing to wipe out guns and sparks. I was so excited when I thought of Simons and Prada confronting a design sketch or cloth sample. Miuccia told System magazine that when she was preparing a series, she always made decisions at the last minute. Simons said he had creativity in the first three months of the show, and then insisted on the last moment. This is the incredible friction. If the final product is to continue what we expect, the two designers' uncompromising vision in the single person mode, it can not be all compatible with happiness.

In the story of System, one thing is very striking, that is, how much time Simons and Prada spend on their frustrations in fashion business. "It has recently ceased to explore its own possibilities," Simons said. "It should become more liberal again." Miuccia agrees: "it is time to rethink these definitions of our system and structure."

From 44 months ago, we jumped to the press conference on Sunday, or more specifically, the following press release: "if the concept of partnership is working together, the result of such dialogue may not only be products, but also a transmission of ideas and culture. A pure creative vision, products are the carriers of these ideas.

This is where I think things will be very exciting. Over the past decades, Simons and Prada have created some of the most exciting fashion shows, costumes, music, creativity and images. Fashion has always been the medium for their choice of communication, but their communication has opened up another world. Under such circumstances, I always regard David Bowie as my God. A song can be molded from so many levels of meaning that it is also creating mythology while playing. This is how you spread your thoughts and culture.

This is the era before revolution. An undaunting moment. I like the fact that Miuccia refutes speculation about the right of succession to the brand. "Don't make me older than I am," she laughed. She wanted to stay here when the revolution came, just like last time. Besides, Raf is not a young man. It may be a bit strange that I even hope he will not hang on his own brand. It's almost like he's on two feet. Because these two are veteran veterans, fashion survivors and cultural celebrities. Now when they combine to reinventing Prada, I think they will show us how to do that.

Source: BoF Fashion Business Review Author: Tim Blanks

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