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Yan Jie: Collecting Sneakers And Telling The Trend Culture

2020/3/23 11:41:00 0

Yan Jie

Sharing guests: Yan Jie

Brief introduction of guests:

After 80 Beijing people, the trend of electricity supplier OG popular founder, sports trend media Laceup founder, trend public relations company InterLab founder.

Former Nike sports North China is responsible for Energy channel sales, North District market retail management, has led the 2011 Air Jordan 11 Retro Concord Limited sales activities planning, 2012 Air Yeezy 2 Limited sales activities planning, Air Force 1 30th anniversary sales activities planning, Nike Nike (shoe family war) activity planning.

In the early days of his career, he worked in the financial industry. He was in charge of investor relations in a listed company. He was responsible for investing and financing in a private equity investment consulting company.

In 90s, we began to collect sports shoes. In 2007, we held the first Chinese personal shoes exhibition "looking for your first pair of shoes". In 2004, as the consultant, I participated in the first Chinese shoe magazine "size size".

   My acquaintance with Chao Shu

I met with Chao Shu when he first entered China in 12 years. At that time, I was in charge of NIKE's skateboard distributor and ski dealer in North China. When Chao Tai had just entered China, he introduced his history in Hawaii. His previous experiences and hobbies also introduced the business scope and business mode of the blue limit in Hawaii. I am very sure of that. Because at that time, there was a lack of brand awareness and a very pure dealer in foreign street culture in China. So at that time, uncle Chao mentioned that he wanted to open a blue shop in China, hoping to bring the very pure American skateboard culture to China. As a sales person in charge of skateboarding and skiing, I was very happy. Uncle opened the account number of NIKE.

   I Shoes career :

I didn't enter this business at the very beginning. When I graduated from abroad, I came back to China in the financial industry. After going through the investor relations between the listed companies and going to a FA private investment fund, I had an opportunity to enter NIKE, and NIKE was responsible for the Energy channel. The sale of limited product shoes was one of them. At that time, Chao Shu was one of the shops, NPC Li Chen's owner's shop, Zhou Bichang's shop, and several old shops in Beijing, including Ya Xin sports, which began to do sports shoes and sports brand shoes business in 90s.

You must be very curious why I transferred from the financial sector to this. For two reasons, one is that I have been fond of these things since I was young. At that time, I heard that NIKE, a company I wanted to work from an early age, had such a position. It was a dream that I completed in my childhood. The second reason is that I began to collect sneakers from 90s, and I am familiar with the shop owners and media in the industry. I had a long chat with NIKE's North District Sales Director. He thought I was particularly suitable. He talked with me about the future direction of development and moved me very much. Then I decided to give up the financial sector completely for my dream, so I switched to the field of clothing and consumer goods.

Speaking of my childhood collection, I was the first basketball player to watch basketball in 92 years. At that time, there was a magazine called "contemporary sports". Some pictures of the Olympic Games in Barcelona were introduced. Later on, I saw the playback of the game on the CCTV sports channel, and I knew a Michael Jordan who could fly. I thought it was amazing that the Americans could play basketball like this. Then they became addicted to basketball.

Then we watched basketball matches and found that everyone's basketball shoes were different, because at that time in 90s, when we were conscious, basketball shoes might still be like Huili. I wonder if they play basketball so well, is it related to basketball shoes? So I started looking for basketball shoes worn by NBA players everywhere. And then I saw a Japanese cartoon called basketball flying guy (later renamed dunk player), which made me particularly obsessed with basketball. I remember when I went looking for basketball shoes, the first pair were CONVERSE's basketball shoes. There were NBA teams on each of them. I thought it was very beautiful. When the new year, my parents bought me a pair as a new year's gift. This is the first step for me to collect basketball shoes. Later, in the past, I saw better looking sneakers, for example, the Jordan series. I think the sneakers can be designed to be so incredible.

Air Jordan 11 black and white colouring is the first pair of shoes that I am very excited about in my whole basketball shoe collection career. At that time, I couldn't find much frustration in looking around the market. My friend said that it was only Hongkong that could get it from the mainland, but it was not easy to go to Hongkong at that time, so this has always been my regret. The first pair of Air Jordan shoes I can see in China are actually Air Jordan. The 12 generation of white and black matches, I remember very clearly, was seen in a NIKE counter in Yansha shopping mall. Just two days before I saw a match in Jordan, he wore these shoes. At that time, the price was 1100 yuan RMB. In the 96 year, it was really expensive. At that time, it was almost over the new year. I spent a long time grinding with my parents. Finally, they agreed to buy the shoes as a new year's ceremony. I gave it to me for a whole night, and I remember it vividly. This is my first pair of Jordan shoes.

A few years later, I began to consciously want to collect these shoes from the Air Jordan 12 generation. At that time, NIKE slowly opened the Chinese market, and the shoes of Air Jordan series were sold slowly in the country from the 13 generation to the 14 generation. I tried to collect every color of every generation until I went to school in England. At that time, basketball shoes were not a particularly important category in the UK. They were mostly running shoes and football shoes.

Because I contacted the sneakers earlier and read a lot of magazines. I remember that in 98 years, the books and magazines related to sports shoes were scarce in China. Once, I saw a magazine in a small alleyway newsstand in the east gate of the people's Republic of China called "urban pop cool". After I finished reading, I felt that China could make such a magazine very well, and I learned a lot from sneakers. The relevant content and knowledge, but after buying the first phase of the second period, there was no more. Later I learned that the copyright of Japanese magazines bought by domestic publishers was translated.

Later, I went to school in England, where it was hard to find sneakers, but my hobby had not been put down. I went online to find channels to find shoes. Until 2001, I found a website called EBAY. It was an American website. There were many personal sellers and dealers selling sneakers, and it was much cheaper than in the country, so I tried to keep me away. The purchase of sneakers is a great pity for me.

In 2003, a summer vacation came back to China. I went to Yaxin sports shop on the fourth side of the East, and I knew Cheng Yang, editor in chief of the first magazine in China. He liked basketball and sneakers at the same time as I did. However, there was no shoe magazine in China. He told me that he was making a magazine of China's own sneakers. So at that time, I helped him to provide a lot of photos of my collection of shoes, as well as to collect information on the other side of the UK. By 2004, the magazine "size" was officially established.

   About sneakers culture

In fact, in 90s, there was no so-called sneaker culture in China. Until this magazine came into existence in China, it began to add cultural attributes to its functional attributes, and in 2004 Michael Jordan first came to China to promote its Air Jordan. The 19 generation of sneakers has also added a fire to China's sports shoes culture market. At that time, the market for Chinese shoes culture was really the beginning.

NIKE has played a very important role in the process of sneakers from a functional product to a cultural product. In 90s, people were still emphasizing the function and performance of sports shoes, but NIKE has begun to put some artistic elements, such as color and design concept, into the shoes, and this tradition was very early.

In 1985, NIKE gave Michael Jordan the first double Air Jordan. 1, at that time, the black and red shoes caused a great sensation in the US market. The reason was that the sports shoes required for athletes were black or white at that time. Jordan was the first person to eat crabs, that is, wearing a pair of red and black sneakers. Because of this incident, NBA gave Jordan a ticket for sky price and forbade him to wear it again, but NIKE saw it at that time. The whole market responded very well, so the fine was paid for it. Later, the black and red colors of these shoes were also called "forbidden to wear color matching".

Since then, NIKE has begun to transform the functional attributes of sneakers slowly into artistic and artistic expression, including later Air. Jordan's shoes started with Jordan's own flying logo. NIKE then started using airmax's technology in 1987 to design the first pair of visible air cushion shoes called AirMax1, then airmax90, airmax95, and gradually extended to airmax97 and airmax98, so the running shoes were made a lot of design, so far are also very classic.

In 90s, when NIKE put the artistic elements on the shoes, NIKE found that street culture or street fashion has begun to blend into the lives of young people. So in 2002, NIKE launched a shoe related to skateboards. By adding shock mitigation technology, the slippery hands were made to be more cushioning and comfortable. The shoes made at that time were called NIKE DUNK SB. Why is this shoe an important element of street fashion or street fashion? Because it put many art forms on this pair of shoes, and in 02 years, NIKE did a lot of joint with skateboards and street fashion shops, which included a very famous joint with SUPREME. So far, these shoes are already worth tens of thousands of dollars. They are very valuable shoes.

From 2002 to 2004, NIKE DUNK SB was regarded as a historical high point, attracting many people's attention at that time. This wave of operation has enabled many young people who like street culture and street fashion to join the NIKE camp. At first, NIKE did not have skateboard shoes. At that time, the skateboard shoes were concentrated on the brand of VANS and DC. At that time, NIKE saw young people like these things, so they decided to do such a series of marketing activities.

   The relationship between sports shoes and fashion

The word "tidal current" actually has such a source. When we express it very bright, in 90s, you said it was very fashionable, and then said that you wore it very avant-garde, and later it was very fashionable. So the word "Chao" evolved from the word "new trend". Later, there was a trend, which means that you are very different from others, but there is no trend in English. The word "street wear" or "street fashion" is actually the street fashion and street clothing.

So what's the difference between street fashion and street clothes and what we usually wear? This is actually the impact of American street culture on the whole field of fashion. Speaking of street culture in the United States, you have to say a person: Shawn Stussy and the brand STUSSY he founded.

Shawn Stussy is not a skateboard man. He began his career as a board maker for surfboards. At that time, he surfed the United States and had his own signature on his surfing board. Then he met his partner Frank Sinatra, an accountant. Frank Sinatra then proposed to Shawn Stussy that his enthusiasm, especially his enthusiasm for surfing, was very much appreciated. At that time, Shawn Stussy printed his own design on many T-shirts, including his own signature and sold it everywhere. After selling it, he found that sales were particularly good. Young people liked his design very much, and the young people who liked these designs all liked skateboards. At that time Shawn Stussy designed these clothes so that these surfers could go to nightclubs or go to nightclub at night when they could go to the night after the day. There was a handsome and handsome T-shirt. Although he didn't play skateboards or play music, all the people around him liked playing skateboards and music, so that he sold the whole 80 to 89 years. OK.

At that time, Shawn Stussy only wholesale, wholesale to his friends, and then his friends to take these clothes to sell, must be Shawn Stussy approval of these people can sell his clothes, because then the whole of the United States for STUSSY love has reached a crazy degree, many shops and distributors want to take his goods are actually not available, that is, limited.

So the whole street corner says the trend is two points: one is T-shirt, the other is limit. In fact, these are all caused by Shawn Stussy doing STUSSY.

Another important person here is actually a very important change in street fashion in the United States and even the world, the founder of SUPREME, James Jebbia.

At that time, James Jebbia worked in New York. He was an Englishman. Later, 89 years later, he founded a clothing buyer's shop called UNION. At that time, UNION sold all the clothes that James Jebbia had brought back from England and other places, such as the clothing brand and some clothes that were dressed in the American Gangster culture. James Jebbia got the sales rights of STUSSY products in UNION at that time through the introduction of a good friend Pual Mittleman, and saw Shawn Stussy in the shop for the first time, and they chatted very well. Shanw said that we made the first STUSSY store together, so in 1990 STUSSY New York was set up. At this time, James Jebbia put a lot of time and energy on STUSSY shop in New York. His UNION store was run by another partner. This is also a very important person in the trend field, called Eddi Cruz.

By the time of 1994, STUSSY's business began to slide, because the consumer's preferences were changing and the aesthetic style was changing. But the style of clothes designed by Shawn Stussy had not changed. From 80s to 90s, everyone was actually a bit tired of aesthetics. Many people told Shawn Stussy that he should change his style, but Shawn Stussy is a person who has his own ideas and has a persistent attitude. He thinks he can't change for others' preferences, so there are some differences with his partner Frank Sinatra.

Later, Shawn Stussy decided that if he could not reach a unified idea and his design was not liked by more people, he decided not to do it. At that time, Frank Sinatra took the STUSSY brand and continued to do it.

That is because the departure of Shawn Stussy gave James Jebbia a big blow. He thought STUSSY was so famous because Shawn Stussy existed. Shawn Stussy left the brand without soul. So James Jebbia was very frustrated. In 1994, he set up his own brand, called SUPREME.

When Shawn Stussy left the STUSSY brand, James Jebbia left the store in New York and concentrated on UNION and SUPREME. Then in 1993, Eddi Cruz and Frank Sinatra met with James Jebbia to discuss that he wanted to go to Losangeles to open a UNION for STUSSY, so Eddi Cruz went to Losangeles to open two stores as a partner.

In 2002, Eddi Cruz met a James Bond. Two people opened a shop called UNDEAFED in Losangeles. You can see that STUSSY, UNDFEATED and UNION stores in Losangeles are together because they belong to one person, namely Eddi Cruz.

UNDEFEATED has been doing very well since its establishment. It has been an important retail partner of Nike and Adidas. Many limited edition and joint funds are on sale there. Later, slowly Eddie Cruz's energy was placed on UNDEFEATED, and UNION was transferred to the current manager called Chris Gibbs.

Chris Gibbs bought UNION from the hand of Eddi Cruz in 2009, and at the same time, UNION's shop in New York was closed in 2009. At that time, the opportunity to buy was because the United States had experienced the subprime crisis. Eddi Cruz was in bad condition at that time, so it decided to sell UNION in the handle. Then STUSSY slowly returned to the Frank Sinatra family and became a direct store.

Back to STUSSY, the reason why STUSSY is so famous in the whole trend is that after Shawn Stussy has done a lot of wholesale business in 80 years, after accumulating wealth, it went to London, Paris and Tokyo to find inspiration and bring interest to these places. At that time, STUSSY set up Stussy International Tribe, that is, the STUSSY international tribe. There are two very important figures. One is in London, called Michael Koppleman, and the other in Tokyo, called Teng Yuan Hao.

London's Michael Koppleman is so important that it has to mention another person, now the creative director of Dior Menswear, Kim Jones.

Here is a picture of Stussy International Tribe, who is a very good friend beside Shawn Stussy. The Middle Asian is actually Teng Yuan Hao, who is known as the father of Japan's trend. He later founded a brand called Good in 1990. Enough, the brand opened the beginning of street fashion in Japan. NIGO, who later founded the BAPE brand, was then an assistant to Teng Yuan Hao.

There is also a photo. We see the Kim Jones on the left, the creative director and the head of Dior, and the Shawn Stussy on the right. They should have a cooperation this year, which is limited to the individuals between Dior and Shawn Stussy, not the cooperation with STUSSY brands. Because in 1994, Shawn Stussy had sold him to STUSSY Frank's family.

STUSSY began to go downhill in 1996. At that time, Frank Sinatra said that since so many people around us like skateboards, we should set up a skateboard team. HUF's founder, Keith Hufnagel, was also one of the members of the skateboard team.

HUF is also a very original skateboard brand, so Keith Hufnage was then a member of the STUSSY team to create a STUSSY skateboard team. STUSSY did gather a lot of people after the creation of the skateboard team, but the whole sales volume was still not up. Frank Sinatra was discussing with you whether to be a skateboard brand or a street fashion brand. After a long struggle, he decided to dissolve the skateboard team because he really wanted to be a more fashionable brand rather than a hard core skateboard brand. Later, Keith Hufnage returned to San Francisco, and founded HUF in 99 years, specializing in the skateboard brand of very vertical hard core.

Speaking of skateboards, I'll talk about SUPREME again. At that time, the original intention of James Jebbia to create SUPREME was to make very good quality clothes for the slippery hand, so you will see that the quality of the whole SUPREME product is very good, and its materials are very exquisite.

At that time, SUPREME used a lot of tribute to Shawn Stussy when doing the whole promotion. You can look at the logo of STUSSY, actually there are two semicircle designs below. At that time, the inspiration of this design was actually from CHANEL, and Shawn Stussy found that the two C combinations of Chanel were together, and he designed a logo with two S combinations. In fact, these street culture or street fashion can not be regarded as a tribute to luxury brands. In that state, they are standing on the other side of the mainstream culture and mainstream fashion. We call it sub culture or underground culture, so they were spoof these brands at that time, and the double S logo designed by Shawn Stussy is actually playing the double C. After the establishment of SUPREME, many of the same techniques were used. For example, a picture on the skateboard which was first reported by CK is Kate moss, a particularly famous model in the UK. At that time, the SUPREME spoof was put up on the top of the SUPREME logo, then put on the slide board to make a selling point to sell a special fire. Later, SUPREME spoof LV, put the pattern of LV flowers on the SUPREME skateboard to attract your attention. I think this is a marketing method, because at that time when the hip-hop culture began to prevail in the United States, the black people and the lower social strata also hoped that they could dress very fashionable and beautiful. They bought a lot of fake goods and fake LV fake CHANEL. After SUPREME came out of the series, they thought it was very interesting, and they would go crazy to buy it, so they knew the brand of SUPREME.

Later, through this kind of spoof, SUPREME had a very good market reaction. Later, as an icon of James Jebbia, Mike Tyson also became a pattern on top of the SUPREME product. Mike Tyson and SUPREME took a picture together on the T-shirt. So you can take a look at the graphic design of the whole SUPREME. Its products are actually T-shirts, sweater, hoodies and shorts, which can be embodied in different colors, different logo and graphic T-shirts. Most of the clothes are mainly made of pictures and simple lines. STUSSY was also using lines, and it was very bright with a very new font. So the whole SUPREME design concept is saluted in many ways and methods. Shawn Stussy, James Jebbia is greatly influenced by Shawn Stussy.

Because the whole street fashion and street culture derivation is just like a family tree, which is inherited. Why Kim Jones, as a luxury brand designer, likes the style of street brand so much, actually speaking of the very important person in London, Michael Koppleman, STUSSY international family is very important in London. Kim Jones's first job in the society was in the Michael Koppleman shop, which was called Gimme Five. At that time, Kim Jones was a salesperson in that store, which sold all the clothes like STUSSY, and later there was SUPREME, so the SUPREME store in London was actually Michael Koppleman for James Jebbia. At that time, Michael Koppleman had another store called The Hideout, which was also a retail store. It also sold street fashion brands in the US, as well as some Japanese brands, such as BAPE and Good Enough, that is, Teng Yuan Hao's own brand.

Speaking of The Hideout store, Michael Koppleman is one of the shareholders, and another shareholder is also a very important person in the whole trend field called Fraser Cooke, because Fraser Cooke later went to Nike to be responsible for all the joint names and cooperation projects we could see.

Just now we finished talking about STUSSY and SUPREME, and then talked about the branch of STUSSY in London, the branch in Japan, Michael Koppleman, with this Teng Yuan Hao, now let's talk briefly about SUPREME. Why is SUPREME a brand that promotes street culture? It's because there are several branches from SUPREME, and two of them are very important brands in the current trend market, one is NOAH, the other is OAMC.

The founder of OAMC has also been a creative director in SUPREME for a long time, called Luke Meier, and will carry forward it in the future, which will have a great influence on the whole field of clothing.

NOAH's principal man Brendon Babenzien worked in SUPREME and James Jebbia for 15 years, so his design concept and style are very similar to James Jebbia's definition of SUPREME. His brand idea is also a street fashion product with strong vertical cultural attributes. His idea is to use very environmentally-friendly materials to make street style designer brand, surfing elements, skateboard elements, music elements. NOAH is now two stores, a shop in New York, a shop in Tokyo.

Now these two brands have become two heavyweight brands in the whole street fashion field. So far, what I want to say is that the street fashion and street culture in the United States are really created by Shawn Stussy, and James Jebbia has passed down well with SUPREME.

Another brand I want to talk about is OFF WHITE.

OFF WHITE's principal Virgil Abloh was discovered by a rapper named Kanye West, and now is the creative director of LV. Just now, Kim Jones, the creative director of Dior, is the creative director of Virgil Abloh's former LV. Kim Jones2017 made a joint project in LV during the year of LV, that is, the cooperation between SUPREME and LV, which raised SURPREME to a new historical position. In the same year, SUPREME was bought 50% by the Carlyle Group, which really made the street fashion brand reach the highest position in the history of the whole ball game.

Adidas has a series of shoes called YEEZY. At the very beginning, Kanye West worked with NIKE to cooperate with YEEZY series. Later, because of the very unpleasant things, he went to Adidas and worked with Adidas for YEEZY series. Now it is also very, very intense. At that time, Virgil Abloh was the creative director of Kanye West company. They were all very fond of art, whether they were visual arts or performing arts. There is another person in this company, called Travis Scott, who is also a rapper. He is best known for his joint name with NIKE, which is what we know now.

So you can see that the whole trend fashion or street fashion circle is not leaving the shoes all the time, because the street fashion field contains a lot of content, including music, including graffiti, including skateboards, including a lot of young people like this street fashion and street culture lifestyle, those sneakers. It is also an essential part of them. NIKE or Adidas also made many combinations in marketing and street culture and street fashion in many marketing activities, and also caused many people to say that the two most popular brands in the world are actually NIKE and Adidas.

Source: tide uncle speaks tide brand.

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