In 2020, the mode of division of labor in the textile industry is becoming more uncertain, and the development mode of the textile industry is becoming more uncertain and uncertain, and the development mode of the textile industry is becoming more uncertain. In the face of many variables in the global industrial situation, fabric enterprises need to think more about how to hedge the impact of the epidemic with product innovation, create market demand, and form the supply of "high efficiency, high quality, high responsibility and low cost", so as to ensure the stable and sustainable development of enterprises.
On August 21, "2020 China International fabric design competition and the 44th (autumn and winter 2021 / 22) China popular fabrics shortlisted evaluation meeting" It will be held in Beijing. Li Binhong, director of national textile products development center As the chief judge of this jury, from China Textile Information Center, China Fashion Color Association, American cotton company, Lanjing fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd., Beijing Institute of fashion, Fangying design studio, Beidi Bairui Trading (Beijing) Co., Ltd., Beijing white collar Fashion Co., Ltd., Fangsheng fashion group, Beijing lining sporting goods Co., Ltd., and Tanlu The experts and judges of zhehang Holding Group Co., Ltd. jointly conducted a strict evaluation from the dimensions of fashion, innovation and commerce.
Li Binhong, director of national textile products development center
——·More than 3500 fabrics compete for the grand prize·——
The competition has attracted more than 400 excellent textile enterprises to participate. It has developed more than 2 500 pieces of fashion materials, clothing materials and other fields, such as men's clothing, clothing materials, clothing materials, etc. At the meeting, three comprehensive awards including gold award, silver award and bronze award, and six individual awards including the best color application award and the best material application award were selected.
In addition, the competition cooperated with American cotton company and Lanjing fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd. to set up the best cotton textile handicraft quality award, the best cotton textile technology innovation award, and Lanjing respectively ™ The award for fiber product development was also determined at the review meeting. It is reported that the results of the competition will be announced in September.
——·Guide development trend·——
As an authoritative professional event with a history of more than 20 years in China's textile industry, the competition has always advocated the product development concept based on the popular trend and market demand. Over the years, it has spared no effort to convey the forward-looking popular trend in the competition and the industry, so as to help enterprises improve the market competitiveness of innovative products.
Li Xiaofei, deputy editor in chief of the trend of textile and clothing
At the meeting, Li Xiaofei, deputy editor in chief of the trend of textile and clothing This paper analyzes the trend of Chinese textile fabrics in autumn and winter 2021 / 2022 published by China Textile Information Center and national textile product development center, and interprets the changes and trends of lifestyle, consumer market and product development under the four themes of "light world", "original space", "more fantasy paradise" and "smart play country" under the concept of trend in post epidemic era To.
She said that judging from the fabrics, enterprises' R & D attitude of product innovation based on market demand can be seen. "More and more enterprises have begun to consciously use popular trends to do product research and development, hoping that enterprises can be more bold in product innovation." She also said that 21 / 22aw is the most important autumn and winter for enterprises after the epidemic. According to the trend forecast, consumers' preferences will be divided into two trends: conservative and partial personality. The conservative side tends to pursue the cost-effectiveness of products, and the younger generation may be more inclined to show their own individuality. When doing product development, enterprises can focus on the change of consumer market demand and make a good layout in advance. In addition, the cotton fabric products of this competition show the rich diversity of cotton products, which is not only reflected in the technical development of various functions, but also involved in the diversified scenes of product use.
——·What the big guys see: innovative products·——
Chen Baojian, chief engineer of national textile products development center
Talking about the common characteristics of fabric products in this competition, Chen Baojian, chief engineer of national textile products development center One is the combination of various processes. Recently, there is a popular word called "out of the loop", which essentially refers to the cross-border integration. The composite process of the competition fabric is also a cross-border "out of the loop", such as the application of polyester color dot yarn and grabbing and shearing technology to denim fabric, and developing woollen denim suitable for autumn and winter; digital printing of check pattern is applied to lace fabric, which expands the application of lace to leisure shirt field. Second, ecological, under the influence of the epidemic, more and more consumers begin to pay attention to environmental protection and sustainability, and fabric development enterprises are also very sensitive to this market demand. In this competition, a large number of raw liquor colored fibers, regenerated fibers, organic fibers and other materials have emerged, among which Tencel ™ Yuefei fiber, Lyocell fiber, Lanjing ™ Cyclogenic fiber ™ The fabric works developed for the representative environmental protection materials not only embody the ecology, but also embody the sense of fashion and quality.
Qi Mei, director of fashion trend Department of China Textile Information Center and vice president of China Fashion Color Association
Qi Mei, director of fashion trend Department of China Textile Information Center and vice president of China Fashion Color Association He said that there were several groups of products with "neutral color" in the fabric products of this competition, and the products showed a "high-level sense" of classic texture in terms of color use and printing and dyeing process, which was in line with the more rational consumption behavior of consumers in the post epidemic period. The products of Lanjing prize mainly reflect the characteristics and functionality of the fiber itself. She also said that since 1999, the competition has been held for more than 40 times. In recent years, the diversity and richness of enterprise fabric products have been significantly improved, and the grasp of fashion trends has become more and more in place. However, affected by the epidemic situation, domestic enterprises have recently stagnated in the color matching and design innovation of their products, and the style and organization of fabric products are also lack of richness. In the future, enterprises can continue to strengthen the depth of product innovation and development and further improve it.
Wang Yutao, design director of Beidi Bairui Trading (Beijing) Co., Ltd
Wang Yutao, design director of Beidi Bairui Trading (Beijing) Co., Ltd There are some exciting and impressive colors in the design of fabrics. This year's old fabrics convey their old ideas, which are not satisfied with the global economy. As for the products participating in the cotton textile awards, he said that many products have made great efforts in the innovative application of cotton, blending cotton with chemical fiber, which makes the fabric more functional and comfortable, which is in line with the current market demand.
Lin Bei, deputy director of Asia supply chain marketing, and Chen Yingqi, senior promotion manager of American cotton company Although not in person, but synchronous "remote" review. Lin Bei He said that the fabric composition of the products participating in the cotton spinning awards presents a new trend. Except for some of the fabrics with cotton content close to 100%, most of the fabrics have a cotton content of 60% ~ 70%, and the cotton content of blended fabrics is lower than that in previous years. "It's also in line with our expected market trend." He said the use of such materials as hemp fiber, mulberry silk and recycled polyester fiber is on the rise, but the balance between cost and price is still a challenge compared with traditional chemical fiber. Secondly, the application of functional finishing technology is not as common as expected, which needs more breakthroughs and guidance. In addition, compared with the consumer demand in the retail market, the proportion of cotton knitted fabrics in this competition is relatively low, which may be affected by the production of knitted fabrics and the transfer of garment processing industry. However, for the domestic market, in the foreseeable future, the market share of knitted fabrics should be increased.
Lin Bei, deputy director of Asia supply chain marketing, and Chen Yingqi, senior promotion manager of American cotton company
Chen Yingqi He said that on the whole, most of the fabrics participating in the selection fully considered the consumer's demand for fabric comfort, functionality and safety in the post epidemic era, such as four-way elastic, antibacterial and antibacterial, environmental protection dyeing and finishing process, etc. In the fabric design, some enterprises try to create a relaxed atmosphere by color and pattern. In terms of technology application, there is no outstanding breakthrough and innovation, which is also in line with the current development situation of the entire textile industry, and affected by the weak international market demand and more uncertain factors in the international environment, it is expected that this trend will continue for some time in the future, and the focus of fabric development will be on consumer comfort On the demand of type and function, it is also in line with the development direction of domestic consumer market demand.
Liu Zhichao, business development director of Lanjing fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd
Liu Zhichao, business development director of Lanjing fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd He said that affected by the epidemic situation, such a demand emerged in the consumer market - the same price, high quality and multi-function, which requires enterprises to present richer combinations in color, structure, texture and style when developing fabrics, so as to meet the personalized needs of downstream customers and even consumers. There are innovations in color, printing, style and fabric texture of the fabrics in this competition. We can see that some fabrics have shown differentiated innovation, and more emphasis on "original". He also said that the selection of raw materials of fabrics is very important for the stability of products. How to realize the differentiated development of fabrics on the basis of stability needs to try more combinatorial innovations in fiber structure, such as adding some cotton fibers to the application of Lanjing Tencel TM products and modal products, which can effectively control the cost and greatly improve the wearing experience of fabrics.
Guo Li, technical application & Development Specialist, Lanjing fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd
Guo Li, technical application & Development Specialist, Lanjing fiber (Shanghai) Co., Ltd It is considered that the fabric of Lanjing fiber has certain guarantee in quality and sustainability, and the fabric color is more bright and full. In addition, the advantages of Lanjing fiber and other fibers complement each other, which not only has a comfortable touch, but also has more functionality, which is conducive to increasing the added value of the fabric; the change and innovation of fabric organization can give the jacquard fabric a unique texture and luster, which is very suitable for high-end women's wear and other categories.
Wang Rui, Dean of School of materials science and engineering, Beijing Institute of fashion
Wang Rui, Dean of School of materials science and engineering, Beijing Institute of fashion The main features of the competition are: first, the raw materials have been improved in terms of structure and texture; second, the raw materials have been improved in terms of structure and integration Weaving, dyeing, finishing and other technologies are used comprehensively. In addition, the application range of Lanjing fiber is more extensive, whether it is autumn and winter clothing or summer clothing, are reflected. He believes that the exploitable space of Lanjing fiber is still very large, and it can be improved in design style and other aspects, so as to show the environmental protection and comfort characteristics of Lanjing fiber with a richer appearance.
Fang Ying, creative director of Fang Ying design studio
Fang Ying, creative director of Fang Ying design studio Said that the overall evaluation of the works is very close to the market, closely follow the needs of consumers. Perhaps due to the impact of the epidemic situation, the participating works pay more attention to the factors such as the price and practicability of the products, and also fully consider the wearing experience such as the easy care and skin feeling of the fabrics, and pay great attention to the functionality of the products. In fact, the purpose of integrating the above factors is to provide consumers with a product experience with multiple functions at the same price. In addition, the high-quality fabrics with skin friendly feeling and soft luster created by Lanjing fiber also emerge in the participating works. These characteristics actually meet the needs of designers when designing clothes. As a designer, we can clearly feel that the upstream fabric development enterprises are trying to get close to the downstream clothing design, and the upstream and downstream of the industrial chain are communicating across the space through the works.
Fu Kui, design and art director of Beijing white collar Fashion Co., Ltd
"The number of fabrics participating in the evaluation this year is about 10% more than that of previous ones, and the comprehensive level is high. Starting from the market demand, many enterprises focus on the development of new products with sterilization and cleaning concepts. The number of products containing silver ions or copper fibers has increased significantly compared with the previous ones. " Fu Kui, design and art director of Beijing white collar Fashion Co., Ltd He said that due to the change of consumer psychology this year, the color of the products evaluated this year is also different from that of previous years. The proportion of traditional autumn and winter colors has decreased, and the application of the concept of cure color system has increased. In the innovative application of cotton, many products have made progress in texture. The fabric is more soft and sticky, soft and close to the body. I believe it will be recognized by the market.
Jin Shuo, deputy general manager of Fangsheng fashion group
Jin Shuo, deputy general manager of Fangsheng fashion group It is pointed out that from the competition, it can be clearly felt that the participating enterprises are affected by the epidemic situation, and the fabric development methods tend to be conservative. They are trying to develop new products with the lowest processing cost, and the changes from appearance to feel are relatively subtle. At the same time, many enterprises are developing antibacterial and antiviral functional fabrics. In this regard, she suggested that the fabric innovation under the epidemic situation should not be limited to a certain function, but should consider the change of consumer lifestyle and concept from a more macro perspective, so as to develop fabric products that meet the needs of consumers in terms of wearing experience, color matching and handle style. For Lanjing ™ The fiber product development should be awarded. She thinks that the skin friendly comfort and high-quality brand image of Lanjing fiber have been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, and enriching product categories and application categories is a direction worthy of development in the future.
Liu Rui, manager of clothing R & D Department of Beijing lining sporting goods Co., Ltd
"Among the fabrics to be evaluated, some sports fabrics have bright spots. For example, some fabrics with 10-15d super fine denier nylon have a hand feel similar to silk, which has both strength and light weight. For sports fabrics, it will have a good application space. In addition, there are some air layer fabrics with thickness and straightness, which also give people an advanced visual effect. When applied to clothing, they will present a better sense of contour. " When it comes to sports fabrics, Liu Rui, manager of clothing R & D Department of Beijing lining sporting goods Co., Ltd say. He also said that in terms of leisure fabrics, there are some dazzling products. For example, a printed fabric interwoven with silk and cotton presents a paper feel after touching. It is fashionable and has good commercial value.
Liu Haohai, head of R & D Department of toread Holding Group Co., Ltd
Liu Haohai, head of R & D Department of toread Holding Group Co., Ltd He said that during the epidemic period, we had a deeper understanding of product innovation, that is to return to the original function of clothing: comfort and warmth. As an outdoor brand, Pathfinder has always been focusing on functional fabrics. In the future, it will focus on the combination of protection and comfort, that is, "strong shell and soft heart", hoping to be softer, lighter and reduce the burden on the body. "In this review, an expanded modified Acrylic fabric is in line with our "soft heart" direction, it is similar to cashmere texture, material price is close to the people, I believe there will be a better market prospect in the future. " In his opinion, there are two directions for innovative research and development of fabric products after the epidemic, one is antibacterial fabric research and development, the other is sustainable environmental protection product development.