This year, the top 10 top three of Taobao creation Festival are all about creative works of Hanfu.
Among them, Qiao Zhi's reflective full edge Han suit made in Song Dynasty is known as the first luminous Hanfu in history, and it is the ＂ nightclub ＂ s ＂ sportswear ＂ developed by LAN ruoting, which fills the blank of Taobao ＇ s Hanfu category.
From the "Hanfu movement" to "sports Hanfu", it has gone through 20 years, from being ignored by people to being sought after by generation Z, from "expensive" people to civilians, from "opening business without opening" to selling 250000 sets in 10 minutes. What has happened to Hanfu?
Behind the development of Hanfu, besides Taobao, who else is pushing?
A brief history of the revival of Hanfu
When it comes to Hanfu, people's first impression may be the clothing of the Han Dynasty.
The clothing of Han Dynasty is Hanfu, but Hanfu is not necessarily Hanfu. Hanfu refers to the traditional clothing of Han nationality from Yao and Shun to the end of Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China.
Hanfu is not only a dress, but also a kind of culture, bearing the profound historical heritage of the Chinese nation for 5000 years.
Because it is a cultural symbol, when APEC meeting was held in Shanghai in 2001, world leaders all dressed in Tang costumes, which opened the first wave of global discussion on Hanfu.
Only at this time, whether in terms of style design or demand satisfaction, the Hanfu could not "fly into the ordinary people's home". In this period, Hanfu was the aristocrat in the clothing, not only the price was high, but also the quantity was scarce.
In 2003, Taobao was born. Some things can be traced from the beginning. Coincidentally, this year, Wang Letian, a young man from Zhengzhou, dressed in Hanfu, strolled on the streets, firing the first shot of the civilian's Hanfu, which attracted the attention of various media at home and abroad.
At this time, it is the time that the post-80s step into society one after another. Meeting material life is the first demand. If you have nothing to do, you will be regarded as an alien and will be despised.
The post-80s generation is a special generation. They seem to get a lot and lose a lot. For Hanfu, they have complex emotions.
In July 2006, he published his song "song of the Han Dynasty",
This song was labeled "revival of Hanfu" and became the theme song of Hanfu movement.
In December of the same year, his lover, Lu Xiaowei, opened a brand store of Hanfu in Wenshu square of Chengdu, returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties.
Many people came to see the opening of LV Xiaoxiu, but there were no people coming to visit. The next day, "Tianfu Morning Post" reported on the topic of "no opening for business of Chinese clothing stores in China".
However, it doesn't matter. Once the "seed" of Hanfu movement is sown, it will germinate eventually.
Under the influence of "returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties", some people tried to join the revival movement of Hanfu, and Chengdu became the gathering place of Hanfu brands.
Under the promotion of folk forces, in 2011, the first Hanfu Spring Festival Gala was released, and the final song of the evening party was back to Han and Tang Dynasty.
After 2013, the first batch of post-90s college students began to enter the society. They gradually became the main force of consumption, providing a hotbed for the rise of Hanfu.
After a large number of exposure and preparation in the early stage, there are national level publicity, more local government reception of foreign dignitaries, and star girls to participate in the film festival call, etc., Hanfu has been gradually understood by more and more people, and the market warming signal is obvious.
During this period, Hanfu entrepreneurs who saw business opportunities poured into Taobao, and the price of Hanfu dropped from thousands to 500.
2018 ushered in a turning year for Hanfu. In this year, the Communist Youth League launched China's Chinese clothing day, and the official blessing ushered in the year of the outbreak of Hanfu.
According to the report of China business center, the transaction amount of tmall in the past 20 million years will exceed 600 million, and the sales volume of tmall will exceed 600 million in 2020.
So far, there are about 20 million people who have placed orders in Ali to buy Hanfu, and the great outbreak of Hanfu market is just around the corner.
Hanfu capital and Hanfu "cloud" capital
Looking at the 20 years of Hanfu revival movement, before 2016, Hanfu development was in the dormant stage, only to meet the needs of a small number of special scenes. Subsequently, driven by the Internet short video, Hanfu ushered in explosive growth in Taobao.
We know that the first physical store of Hanfu was born in Chengdu. Under its influence, there are more and more Hanfu brands in Chengdu, which has established Chengdu's reputation as "Hanfu capital".
In 2006, back to the Han and Tang Dynasty, the first store opened and encountered the dilemma of "opening but not opening". One reason is that the Han clothing group is too small, and the other is that foreign consumers can't touch it.
At this time, some people began to think of Taobao, so outside the capital of Hanfu, a Hanfu "cloud" rose, that is Hangzhou, Taobao was born in Hangzhou.
Chen Jizhou returned to China after studying abroad. He was impressed by the beauty of Hanfu in Chengdu. Because of his love of design, he started his business in Hanfu. He felt that young people were on Taobao, so Taobao Hanfu came.
At this time, the popularity of Taobao is not high, and the audience of Hanfu is also very small. A small number of consumers can not support the mass production of self-designed Hanfu. Naturally, the cost is very high. This kind of Taobao entrepreneurs are high-end players.
The development of e-commerce needs the support of entities. Only when the real industry of Hanfu develops to a certain scale and forms a complete industrial chain, can e-commerce break out.
Chengdu has a very complete Hanfu industry chain, including a Hanfu street and Hanfu wholesale market, which provides a source of goods for a large number of Taobao distribution entrepreneurs.
It is Taobao distribution entrepreneurs who promote the rise of Taobao Hanfu. They have played a positive role in the promotion and popularization of Hanfu from physical purchase to Taobao sales..
More and more people buy goods in Chengdu and sell goods on Taobao. Chengdu's "Hanfu" has become a famous brand after panda, hotpot and mahjong.
Nowadays, in Chengdu, the number of Hanfu merchants buy Hanfu and the total output value of Hanfu industry.
According to incomplete statistics, at present, more than 40000 people in Chengdu open Hanfu shops on Taobao, ranking first in the city. This is like rebuilding a "Hanfu city" outside Chengdu, Chengdu on Taobao.
"Millet" in the Han clothing industry sold 250000 sets in 10 minutes
Both Hanfu capital and Taobao "cloud" are the result of the gathering of many brand businesses.
The creative brands of Hanfu on Taobao include not only the three on Taobao's list, but also the local born and bred zhonglingji and zhiyuji in Chengdu. These brands have brought Hanfu into the fast track of development.
Speaking of the subversive and innovators of these brands, LAN ruoting thinks the second and no one dares to recognize the first.
First of all, it designed the "sports Hanfu" and completed the mission from the Hanfu movement to the "sports Hanfu".
Secondly, it sold the Chinese clothing at the price of cabbage, known as the "millet" of the Hanfu industry. Xiaomi makes smart phones affordable for everyone, and LAN ruotang makes Hanfu affordable for everyone.
Zhang Jingwen, the founder of LAN ruotang, is "in love with Chinese clothes at first sight". At the graduation ceremony of high school, her classmates wore Hanfu to take photos, and she was shocked by the elegant feeling and gorgeous colors of Han clothes.
After entering the University, she began to study the culture of Hanfu like a demon. In order to let the theory fall, she set up the Hanfu society as the president.
How to make more people wear beautiful Chinese clothes is the focus of Zhang Jingwen's thinking in University.
The most important thing for Zhang Jingwen to pursue is to understand the personality of the people who are born in 1997. At the same time, they need to understand the creativity of the people who are born in the society.
In order to "make a set of Hanfu that everyone can afford", in 2016, she plunged into Taobao and founded the Hanfu brand "Lan ruotang".
There was no casual success. At the beginning of her business, Zhang Jingwen worked as a designer, typewriter, delivery and customer service.
In 2017, she launched three styles of Wei Jin style, with a full set price of 199 yuan, which broke through the lower price limit of Hanfu. At that time, there were thousands of better style Hanfu.
In 2018, she launched Taiping simian skirt, with the combination price of 199 yuan, which once again set the bottom line of the price of horse face skirt. At that time, the market price of horse face skirt was more than 500 yuan.
After that, Taiping Youxiang dominated the list for several months and became the sales volume of Hanfu in that year. LAN ruotang fought his way with 199. After that, his colleagues changed the name of LAN family to 199 family.
This year, LAN ruotang's popularity was not only related to the promotion of Chinese clothing day by the Communist Youth League, but also related to the price of cabbage.
LAN ruoting's "cabbage price" has moved too many people's cheese, causing a collective "boycott" among peers. There are rumors of shop closures and complaints of market disruption.
This is similar to Xiaomi in the early stage of development, which is very important for the popularization of Hanfu. Consumers vote with their feet. When peers boycott, LAN ruoting goes up a new step.
In May 2020, 250000 sets of Hanfu made in Song Dynasty were sold in 10 minutes and 400000 sets in 29 minutes, setting a new record.
Over the past four years, LAN ruoting has accumulated more than 2.3 million fans, and its sales volume has exceeded 100 million yuan in 2019, fulfilling the saying that "Hanfu culture must be popularized, not high and low".
Therefore, some people say that the Han nationality clothing is only one LAN ruoting between the minority and the mainstream.
The circle culture of Hanfu bears the rings of the times
After the popularization of Hanfu, it is not uncommon to meet a man in Hanfu at a subway station, to compete with a man in Hanfu at a restaurant, or to see a man in Hanfu holding a cocktail cup in a bar.
Behind the popularity of Hanfu culture, in addition to the promotion of e-commerce platforms like Taobao, the more important thing is the development trend of the times.
First of all, it is the enhancement of cultural identity and national self-confidence.
In the new era, with the rapid development of economy and the great increase of national strength, the consumer of generation Z has a strong sense of national pride. The consumption concept has risen from the material level, and the pursuit of spiritual culture is quite different from the mentality of the Post-70s and 80s who pay more attention to material needs.
This part caters to the spiritual needs of young people.
Secondly, it is the need of young people's personality expression.
The group of Z era, growing up in the rich material environment, is living in the Internet age, with strong personality characteristics, mostly to pursue clothing differentiation to highlight themselves.
What they buy is not clothes, but attitude towards life, but cultural symbols.
Thirdly, it is the rise of short video platforms such as kuaixiao B.
From the initial post bar forum to micro blog card printing, the speed of circle powder is multiple level, but after the rise of fast hand, Shuo Yin and station B, the fans of Hanfu have increased exponentially.
With the blessing of short video platform technology, they attract fans to watch by publishing and sharing their carefully edited Hanfu and Guofeng videos.
The spreading boundary of Hanfu culture has been widening. More and more people begin to wear Hanfu to experience Chinese traditional culture.
Finally, it is the circle cultural identity.
In the process of the popularization of Hanfu, fans with similar ideology have formed their own circle culture. They seek identity and sense of belonging by wearing Hanfu in the circle, which is much easier than people who wear Hanfu.
Hanfu has developed into another social means besides the game. By joining the Hanfu circle, one can gain inner satisfaction and cultural identity, and shorten the sense of distance between them.
In the history of Taobao's development, there has never been a category with the development of Hanfu so exaggerated and crazy.
Many fans will continue to pay close attention to the new stores, and then follow the sellers to communicate and discuss. Some buyers are interested in going to work directly in the shops they like. If they are not satisfied with the work, they will start their own businesses and design Hanfu.
Taobao has a large number of interest circles in Hanfu, so it is difficult for Hanfu to break out in the future.
Taobao is not the future of Hanfu
According to the data disclosed by station B, in 2019, there are as many as 83.47 million national style fans in station B. according to the statistics of Ali, there are about 20 million people who have placed an order in Ali and bought Hanfu.
From this point of view, Hanfu market space is huge. But how to make Hanfu break the circle and make the cake bigger, it is obviously impossible to rely on Taobao.
It is hard to replace the up owners in the dissemination of Hanfu culture. For example, the short video of Hanfu style dominated by Li Ziqi, brother Hongyi and Shili has a strong influence. The IP explosion of film and TV dramas mainly composed of "do you know or not" and "petition" has accelerated the rise of Hanfu circle.
These communications all rely on short video platforms, especially fast hand, tremolo and station B. in the future, they may be the main battlefield of Hanfu.
These platforms support the content creation of up owners through technology, and the number of songs, short videos and offline activities with the theme of national style and ancient style is constantly increasing, making Hanfu out of the circle through various ways.
It is worth mentioning that these short video platforms are being e-commerce, and it will become a reality for fans to buy while watching.
This is bound to form a certain impact on Taobao. The future growth point of Hanfu may be in such platforms as Kuaishou, Shuo Yin and station B.
However, in July 2019, Ali made a second-hand preparation, launched the gutao app, aimed at Han suit users, and built a communication and communication community for this group.
When Hanfu becomes an industry, it will drive the development of surrounding industries, such as accessories, leasing, photography, etc. the scale of 100 billion industries is on the way to form.
However, while seeing the positive side of Hanfu development, we also need to pour cold water on it.
First of all, the industrial chain of Hanfu is still in its infancy, with small market scale and low profit; secondly, it is difficult to eradicate the stubborn disease of Shanzhai; finally, there are many disputes in the upsurge of Hanfu, such as the standard of style division and copyright issues.
These factors will restrict the expansion of the industry.