Gao Yong: Boosting Consumption Of Intangible Cultural Heritage And Creating A Better Life

Boosting consumption of intangible cultural heritage to create a better life

Gao Yong, Secretary of the Party committee of China Textile Industry Federation

(September 21, 2020)

China Textile intangible cultural heritage conference has been held for three consecutive years, respectively in Zhejiang, Beijing and Yunnan. Last year, it was a great honor to be selected as one of the top ten events of China's intangible cultural heritage. Its influence has been highly concerned by the society. This year, the fourth China Textile intangible cultural heritage conference was held in Shenyang for the first time in Northeast China. It was guided by the Ministry of culture, tourism, industry and information technology of the people's Republic of China and strongly supported by the Propaganda Department of Shenyang municipal Party committee. It was also assisted by Liaoning textile and clothing association, Shengjing manxiu culture group and tongshijie (Liaoning) intangible cultural heritage Communication Co., Ltd. Here, on behalf of the China Textile Industry Federation, I would like to express my heartfelt thanks and express my sincere respect to all the delegates from all over the country.

The holding of this conference meets many historic passes. In the end, China will step out of the shadow of China's three major Anti-Poverty Strategies, step out of the shadow of China's overall economic development and social development The economic and social development of the 14th five year plan provides strategic guidance. From the perspective of textile industry, since this year, affected by the new crown epidemic, the economic operation of the industry has suffered heavy losses, and various indicators have declined in a large area. However, with the joint efforts of the whole industry and the policy support of governments at all levels, the operation of the industry has bottomed out and marginal improvement has been achieved. The situation of returning to work and production is getting better, and the sales of domestic online and offline are recovering, and the consumption of residents is recovering, We will strive to return to the healthy development of the whole industry as soon as possible.

As an integral part of the development of our industry, it is difficult to find the corresponding share of production and consumption from the industry statistics, and the severe situation this year has also been seriously affected. However, the textile intangible cultural heritage people did not shrink back, but bravely took on the responsibility and went against the trend. They showed their special dedication in fighting against the epidemic, their persistence and fighting spirit in poverty alleviation, their creative enthusiasm and practical work when they returned to work and production. They showed their wise figures in the live broadcast with goods on the network platform, and were concerned about the overall situation of the country and people's livelihood, Adhere to the mission of inheritance and development. With the domestic economic and social life order basically returned to normal, the whole inheritance and development chain of textile intangible cultural heritage began to operate normally, and the industrial intangible cultural heritage work showed new vitality.

Today, we gather in Shenyang to hold the fourth national textile intangible cultural heritage conference to show the whole industry and the whole society that as the organization, coordination and service organization of textile intangible cultural heritage, China Textile Federation will continue to uphold the spiritual concept of carrying forward Chinese excellent traditional culture and traditional technology, and make the textile intangible cultural heritage in the right place by combining the protection, inheritance and innovation and development Generation life continues to present strong vitality and consumption space, adding soft power for the transformation and upgrading of textile industry, and creating a bright world for beautifying people's life.

Last year, I put forward the imagination and theme of "creating a new era of inheritance and development of textile intangible cultural heritage" at the third textile intangible cultural heritage conference held in Kunming. This year has experienced many historical nodes and drastic social and economic fluctuations, which makes us rationally realize that the new era is full of variables. However, it should always be the focus and goal of the textile intangible cultural heritage work to pay attention to and solve people's livelihood, inherit and develop excellent traditional culture, increase consumption and beautify life.

Therefore, the main task of this conference is to study and explore the way to "boost consumption of intangible cultural heritage and create a better life". We don't want to talk about the macro direction and strategy. We should try our best to talk about the industry and pragmatism, and also involve some forward-looking development. I hope it can give you some inspiration. Here are three key points for your reference.

I. why should we emphasize boosting the consumption of textile intangible cultural heritage?

Textile intangible cultural heritage mainly includes spinning, dyeing, weaving, embroidery, printing and national costumes, which basically belong to the category of traditional technology. National costume is the integration of spinning, dyeing, weaving, embroidery, printing and other related materials, which makes the textile intangible cultural heritage become an organic technology chain and cultural system. No matter in history and reality, textile intangible cultural heritage is closely related to people's life. It is full of and vivid life flavor, contains the spirit of ingenuity and folk wisdom, and carries the intangible power of the times and culture. It is a precious wealth in the excellent traditional Chinese culture and traditional crafts. In modern society, people's life style and aesthetic taste have changed greatly. Textile intangible cultural heritage and other traditional crafts are also facing unprecedented survival crisis and inheritance test. We must consider how to implement the strategic issues of creative transformation and innovative development. This is the responsibility and mission of the textile industry to carry forward and continue the excellent Chinese traditional culture and traditional crafts, and is also an important strategy to realize the transformation and upgrading of the industry and add cultural connotation. How to realize transformation and development? Obviously, it is necessary to let the traditional textile culture and traditional technology with its own cultural gene and regional characteristics, integrate into the material and cultural life of contemporary people with innovative design, function and material form through market-oriented way. From the perspective of economics, life is spiritual and material consumption. Only when the material products containing intangible cultural heritage elements are consumed can they be truly integrated into modern people's life, and the cultural and economic values of traditional crafts can be truly realized.

Therefore, it is emphasized that boosting the consumption of intangible cultural heritage is not to weaken its cultural connotation with the materialization and commodity form of intangible cultural heritage, but to solve the major problem of mutual adaptation between traditional textile technology and contemporary life style by means of marketization. It should be admitted that the current consumer market recognition of textile non heritage products is not high, which makes many inheritors and operators in trouble. This epidemic situation makes the difficulties even more serious. In essence, this is not only due to the lack of understanding of the traditional cultural value of textile intangible cultural heritage, but also due to the low production efficiency, high cost, poor quality and not meeting the current consumption and aesthetic needs. Economic common sense tells us that the lack of consumer recognition means that there is no room for survival in the field of market economy, and the investment and payment in all aspects of intangible cultural heritage will not be compensated by corresponding economic and cultural values. The related undertakings, including poverty alleviation and employment, will encounter difficulties, and the inheritance and development of intangible cultural heritage will be difficult to continue. Therefore, the emphasis on boosting the consumption of textile intangible cultural heritage is to excavate the cultural connotation, absorb the nutrients of the times, emit the light of industry and market vitality, which is related to whether our intangible cultural heritage cause can match the era of market economy and achieve sustainable development.

2. What are the basic points to boost the consumption of textile intangible cultural heritage?

First of all, we should develop a multi-directional and diversified application of traditional textile technology, and design and output related products according to innovative ideas and consumer demand. According to the basic division of the industry, the textile intangible cultural heritage resources can be mainly applied to clothing, home life, cultural tourism, wedding folk customs, art creation, film and TV drama costumes. Those with collection and investment value can enter the auction market, and those with national influence can also conduct international exchanges. According to the consumption demand in these different fields, we should, in accordance with the ideas of innovation and development and marketization, update the concept and design concept, update the technology and techniques, including the use of materials and the renewal of form and content, so as to broaden the vision, activate the inspiration, bring forth the new through the cross-border integration and contemporary aesthetics, and reasonably use the advanced and suitable The innovation and creativity, production efficiency and adaptability to market demand of textile intangible cultural heritage products can be improved by using technical means. Overemphasizing the protection of "original flavor" will only lead to the decline or even extinction of the vitality of the textile intangible cultural heritage. It is necessary to let the high-quality textile intangible cultural heritage products bearing excellent traditional cultural connotation and exquisite skills, and meet all kinds of current consumer needs, leaving memories and blooming style in modern people's lives.

Secondly, it is necessary to open up various channels for effective market promotion, so that consumers can truly accept and recognize the textile intangible cultural heritage products. This is also a common problem faced by the inheritance and development of intangible cultural heritage. During the period of fighting against the epidemic, the Ministry of culture and tourism of the people's Republic of China held the "intangible cultural heritage Shopping Festival" on the occasion of cultural heritage day. This kind of national market promotion provides us with a channel paradigm for reference and implementation. At present, the network direct selling among the people is very active in bringing goods for the dissemination of intangible cultural heritage. This year, we have launched a series of ambassadors for the promotion of intangible cultural heritage. They have led the network direct sales team to successfully promote the mature textile intangible cultural heritage products to the domestic and foreign markets. They have also helped thousands of embroiderers to obtain profits. There are many successful cases of this kind, but there are also some deficiencies. A lot of domestic textile intangible cultural heritage resources are concentrated in the western minority areas, where the circulation radius is very small due to the geographical traffic restrictions, so it is very difficult to export the intangible cultural heritage products. It is urgent to send the intangible cultural heritage products with regional national characteristics to more consumers who are fond of it through network channels. Therefore, we expect network sales to become the normal market promotion of textile intangible cultural heritage in the post epidemic period. Last year, the Intangible Cultural Heritage Office of China Textile Federation, Liaoning textile and clothing association and Dalian clothing Expo jointly held the "China (Dalian) textile non heritage cultural and creative brand special exhibition", which belongs to the offline exhibition platform. At that time, it was paid attention to and fully affirmed by the leaders of the Ministry of Commerce and Liaoning Province. This professional exhibition of textile intangible cultural heritage was also the most willing patron and the transaction was very active The exhibition has become a highlight of Dalian Fashion Expo, which fully shows that the offline or physical sales channels of textile intangible cultural heritage also have great development potential.

As mentioned above, the textile intangible cultural heritage resources can be applied in a wide range of fields, which are closely related to people's life, and are also an indispensable part of the realization of people's good life. Under the condition of market economy, exploring effective promotion channels and business models suitable for various consumption fields is conducive to the development law of textile intangible cultural heritage and the contemporary economic law and life law Organic combination can promote the final presentation of the economic and cultural value of textile intangible cultural heritage.

3. How to create a brand of intangible cultural heritage and enjoy a better life?

It should be said that this is the key to boosting consumption of intangible cultural heritage and creating a better life. These years are the best time for inheriting and developing intangible cultural heritage. The party and government departments at all levels attach great importance to and support it. Various policies and measures of cultural, tourism, industry and information departments are continuously and effectively. Industry organizations take the initiative. Inheritors, designers, entrepreneurs and experts and scholars have basically formed a career promotion group to enhance the inheritance and innovation ability. They gradually realize the intangible cultural heritage under the baptism of the market economy We should get out of the state of being "supported". Only by branding, that is, embedding intangible cultural heritage elements into brands or original brands, and passing the inspection of the market and consumers, can the inheritance and development of intangible cultural heritage be carried out more effectively. One of the world's top luxury brands has set up a special store selling Chinese typical intangible cultural heritage products in China, including silk, embroidery and products, which are expensive but quite popular with consumers. Some well-known domestic women's clothing brands creatively apply the traditional skills of national and world-class intangible cultural heritage projects to the clothing design and production, making the ultimate pursuit of craftsmanship and With the development of modern life and ecological aesthetics and incomparable fabrics, each garment has become a beautiful picture with unique artistic conception, which has moved many consumers with good taste. Undeniably, this is the charm of intangible cultural heritage, but also the strength of the brand.

Today's social economy is more and more dependent on the pull of consumption. The power of brand always affects the psychology and behavior of consumers. The greater the influence of brand, the more willing consumers are to follow and meet their needs. Therefore, it is of great significance to create the brand of intangible cultural heritage in the fields of clothing, home life, cultural tourism, art works, foreign exchange and other fields, and it is of great significance to build a complete brand system of textile intangible cultural heritage through the classification of the inheriting subject and carrier of the intangible cultural heritage. It includes the following contents:

One is the intangible cultural heritage project brand. It must be listed in the official list. The higher the level of the project, the higher the value of its brand. For example, there are 197 and 3 textile projects at the national level and 3 projects in the United Nations, and 104 items listed in the list of the first batch of national revitalization of traditional crafts. It should be the top priority to build a brand of intangible cultural heritage projects. Such high honor and responsibility should have corresponding Brand value.

Second, inheritors and designer brands. This is to emphasize the main role of "people" in shaping intangible cultural heritage brand. Inheritors, especially master inheritors, are the authority of mastering the traditional skills of intangible cultural heritage. They should be the spokesmen of intangible cultural heritage project brands. They are brands and have corresponding fans. Designers, especially famous designers, should focus on the modern and fashionable application of intangible cultural heritage elements in the textile and clothing industry, and strive to become the popular trend of the textile intangible cultural heritage market Leader.

Third, product and enterprise brand. If the product is not accepted by the consumers, the product will gradually become the core of the product, and the product will become the core of the product Form enterprise brand. The formation of intangible cultural heritage product brand and enterprise brand needs to break through the conservative concept of "playing" intangible cultural heritage only in the cultural field, and vigorously promote the industrialization and marketization of intangible cultural heritage.

Fourth, national characteristics and regional brands. Most of the textile intangible cultural heritage resources are concentrated in areas inhabited by ethnic minorities, and their characteristics are affected by ethnic culture. They are the representative cultural symbols of local life style, and also an important means of making a living, employment and creating economic sources. A popular saying in the field of textile intangible cultural heritages is "taking baby while embroidering flowers, and raising family at the same time", which is a true portrayal of embroidery women's production and life in ethnic minority areas. However, how to form national characteristics and regional brand still requires government support, capital intervention, enterprise participation and business operation mode with traditional cultural feelings.

Fifth, national brands with international influence. The inheritance and development of the intangible cultural heritage of textile industry should tell the "Chinese story" of the textile intangible cultural heritage in the process of continuously promoting its international communication capacity construction. It should link the international fashion trend and let the nations and countries with the ability to appreciate the traditional culture and traditional technology become a strong magnetic field to accept and like China's textile intangible cultural heritage, so as to further build it Chinese silk, Chinese embroidery, Chinese national clothing and other national brands with international influence have made important contributions to the cultural trade exchanges between China and other countries and the cooperation and exchange of textile and clothing industry.

Generally speaking, when the brand of textile intangible cultural heritage is truly formed, it will bring market recognition and reputation, and then win the favor of consumers. The textile intangible cultural heritage can truly integrate into modern life, realize the mission pursuit of creative development and innovative transformation, and bring people a better life. "People's daily use is the way". Let's join hands to strive for "boosting consumption of intangible cultural heritage and creating a better life".