Kapok Road: Can'T Hide! Zhang Ailing Is Actually A High Rank "Contemporary Blogger"

What do you think of Eileen Chang first? "Love in a fallen city", "half life fate", "red rose and white rose", or her taboo love with Hu Lancheng?

Over the years, Zhang Ailing's name has been labeled as a writer. Her life experience and love have been sighed by the world, but few people pay attention to it. Behind her melancholy life, there are more interesting flash points. For example, at that time, she had the outstanding fashion concept.

It has been said:“ If we want to deeply explore Eileen Chang's understanding of fashion, it is estimated that 99% of contemporary bloggers are inferior to her. If living in modern times, Eileen Chang must also be the top traffic bearer, or at least a big V with tens of millions of fans. ”

Today, let's take a look at how this talented woman of the Republic of China became a recognized "master of the times.".

01 the first form of "the current blogger" The fashion mother of Eileen Chang

Zhang Ailing's fashion aesthetics is influenced by her family.

Her mother, Huang Yifan, is a modern girl who loves to make clothes. In contrast, there is a picture entitled "in London, 1926", which shows Huang Yifan's snow mud in his youth. With her curly hair, her hands crossed against her chin, and her blue and green coat on her knee, it is reminiscent of Zhang Ailing's mother: "she learned to sing with weak lungs, which sounds more like reciting poetry, half a scale lower than that of the piano, with a sorry smile and a charming explanation."

Zhang Ailing's mother

In her letter to her daughter, she could not do without fashion: she wanted to learn how to make leather and open a shop to sell handbags. Huang Yifan really bought a tin case of green snake skin from Malaysia to make leather bag shoes.

When Zhang Ailing was a child, she saw that "her mother stood in front of the mirror and pinned an emerald brooch on her green jacket." she could hardly wait to grow up. She secretly swore in her heart:“ When you are eight years old, you should comb your hair; if you are ten years old, you should wear high-heeled shoes. ”

Zhang Ailing's mother was dressed as a full French girl

02 the second form of the cultivation of "current bloggers" Talent sucks powder -- a writer who can't draw is not a good blogger

If you want to be a fashion blogger, traffic is very important, and Eileen Chang's most important thing is to pay attention to her, because she has been relying on her talent for a long time.

As we mentioned at the beginning, she has many literary works. Her writing always exudes a kind of desolate beauty which is intriguing and mysterious. Delicate scenery outline, deep psychological description, rich and strange images are intertwined, presenting the desolation in the prosperity and the dust in the fireworks.

Feng Biluo and yanziye in jasmine fragrant film

Moreover, she often makes a lot of golden sentences, and any one of them can be on the "hot search of the Republic of China Version". Whether it is the understanding of life in "life is a gorgeous robe, crawling with fleas", or "seeing him, she becomes very low, low and low in the dust. But her heart is joyful, flowers bloom from the dust "in the thinking of love, still deeply rooted in the hearts of the people.

Eileen Chang's paintings are as amazing as words. Most of them are illustrations for her own novels. The slender and fashionable women in her novels are in the modern clothes of that time. They are either gentle and soft, or have lofty toes. The shape of women can be vividly expressed only by lines. The situation of the novel can only be understood by the author himself, but it is rare that the situation in his novel can be reproduced by painting.

Three women in red rose and white rose

She shows a strong fashion talent in these works. It has been said:“ In fact, her works can be regarded as a documentary of modern Chinese clothing. ”She also wrote articles on clothing several times, published "Chinese life and fashion" in English, and then wrote it in Chinese again, that is, "changing records".

After reading her "changing notes", you will feel that she is quite competent as a fashion editor.

The illustrations in the book are all drawn by Eileen Chang herself

03 the third form of cultivating "contemporary bloggers" The passion of buying and buying

As a fashion opinion leader, fashion bloggers should buy more and wear more. Coincidentally, Eileen Chang never disguised her love for material things To be good-looking, to be delicious, to be bright, to show off, to live with taste.

She bought the most popular Danqi lipstick at that time. When I was studying, I took all the scholarships to make clothes. I bought my own materials and designed them. I put them all on my body. Zhang Ailing said: "my mother blamed me for not keeping that note as a souvenir, but I'm not as emotional as she is. For me, money is money. I can buy everything I want. "

Lipstick ads of the year

Those who are greedy for beautiful clothes, in a superficial way, are greedy for beauty. If you enlarge them, they are actually a love of scalding life. In that dark age, perhaps only beautiful clothes can add a little luster to life.

04 the fourth form of the cultivation of "contemporary bloggers" Wearing a piece out of the circle

The success of a fashion icon is often related to certain items, such as Hepburn's little black dress and Monroe's small white skirt, while Eileen Chang's signature piece is the traditional Chinese dress cheongsam.

Shanghai in the 1940s was not only the place where Eileen Chang lived, but also the center of the whirlpool of Chinese fashion. At that time, there was already a "genre of cheongsam" in Shanghai, which was a combination of Chinese and Western tailoring. One is local westernization, or western style lapels or ruffles or slit sleeves; the other is to match cheongsam with western style clothing. A simple cheongsam with a small suit or knitted vest is both retro and novel.

Zhang Ailing naturally became addicted to cheongsam. Looking at her "comparison record", it clearly shows that she really had a variety of cheongsam. The brocade and satin silk cheongsam is traditional and slightly luxurious; the thin spun cheongsam is light and charming; the carved gold flower Qipao is gorgeous and elegant; the Black Plain Satin high collar sleeveless cheongsam is sad and mysterious.

Take "lust, caution," which was adapted into a film by Ang Lee, for example. From a clever student to a rich wife, Wang Jiazhi changed 27 sets of cheongsam on her, and Tang Cao, wintersweet, rose and cloud patterns appeared one after another. Today, Eileen Chang can be a new generation of cheongsam designers.

Screenshot of lust, caution

Zhang Ailing's era is a cheongsam swaying era, and Zhang Ailing wearing cheongsam is definitely a meaningful and graceful miniature of that era.

05 the fifth form of "the current blogger" Fashion attitude with distinct personality

It's not enough for a blogger to wear only fashionable styles, but also to learn how to be a blogger. It seems that Eileen Chang of the last century knew this way very well.

Although she knows exactly what kind of clothes to wear on any occasion, what identity to wear and what kind of clothes to buy, she feels that if she wears too well, she will become a lady of the family and not be called a "fashion blogger".

Therefore, she invented a unique way of dressing. Pan Liudai wrote in the story of Eileen Chang:“ Zhang Ailing likes strange clothes. One of the strange clothes she invented is a short jacket on the outside of cheongsam. ”

1. If you wear grandmother's clothes, you can be chic

Zhang loves to go through grandma's closet and improve her old clothes. She once told her good sister Su Qing, "if you want people to pay attention to only one of you in so many people, you have to find your grandmother's clothes to wear."

Su Qing was startled and said, "grandmother's clothes are not shroud?" "What's the matter?" Zhang replied (that's cool, too)

Once, she went to her friend's wedding in Qianqing embroidered jacket and trousers. She was so surprised that she was still seeing the bride.

2. Mix and match Chinese and Western to play the national trend

When she wears Chinese style clothes, she is not blindly following the rules. Mixing and matching is her killer.

Zhang Ailing once lived in two different families. One was the family of her father's children, which was filled with opium smoke, decadence and a little bit of lethargy; the other was her mother's enlightened family, where there were piano, oil painting and Western etiquette. As a result, Zhang Ailing combines the temperament of both sides. When she wears cheongsam, she will wear Qianqing jacket. This loose style not only covers the flesh and looks thin, but also looks full of personality at that time. It can be seen that the shadow of oversize boyfriends nowadays is faintly visible, and it is even a little like the Republic of China Version of "missing under clothes".

Or add a bathrobe over the monochrome cheongsam. Isn't it like the modern pajamas and bathrobes?

Su Qing, a close friend of Zhang Ailing, said: "she wears a suit and will dress herself up as a young woman of the 18th century. When she wears cheongsam, she will dress herself up like our grandmother or great grandmother. Her face is the face of a young man, and her clothes are old-fashioned clothes. That's all. She integrates the great gimmicks of ancient and modern China and foreign countries, and first arranges herself into a legend. "

3. Bold color matching

Every fashion blogger is a master of color, so is Eileen Chang.

Her mother taught her oil painting, which made her very sensitive to color. Zhang Ailing wrote in "tongyanwuji · wear" that "the harmony of colors and colors, the Chinese people have learned the two rules of" contrast "and" harmony "from the West. Roughly speaking, the contrast is red and green, and harmony is green and green. However, the conflict between the two kinds of green is very obvious. The more the two kinds of green push the trigger, the more disturbing they will be. Red and green control, there is a gratifying stimulus

She once brought back a piece of Guangdong local cloth from Hong Kong. The dazzling rose red was printed with pink flowers and green leaves. It was printed on the dark blue or green ground. It was worn by a rural baby. She made clothes in Shanghai. She felt very good about herself, "as if she walked around in the famous paintings of the museum, and all over the place was very beautiful.".

If she can't find enough "flashy" and "weird" clothes, Eileen Chang will do it herself, and she will do the work of a fashion designer every minute. Here is a picture of Eileen Chang and Xianglan Li. The clothes she wears are taken from a quilt of her grandmother's and then taken to the tailor

Zhang Ailing is very proud of the light ink spots on the beige silk and the dark purple Phoenix, because "no similar pattern has been seen elsewhere", which is unique enough for her.

Zhang Ailing, wearing a dress made of old quilts, took a group photo with the actress Li Xianglan

06 the sixth form of "the current blogger" Beauty is a life-long thing to live delicately forever

The delicacy of fashion bloggers is not a sudden rise, but a cumulative persistence. In this regard, Eileen Chang can be compared with Parisian women who are highly respected by the world. She has always paid attention to dress, and even in her daily life, she tries to be elegant and decent.

Once, pan Liudai and Su Qing went to see her in her apartment, and saw her in a lemon yellow evening dress with bare chest and arms. She was full of fragrance, bracelets, necklaces and pearls. It was obvious that she was in the process of dressing up. Su Qing and I couldn't help but wonder if she was going to the street? "It's not going out on the street, it's waiting for a friend to come and have tea," she said At that time, Su Qing and I were very casual in their clothes. By contrast, they felt very embarrassed. They exchanged glances and said, "since you have friends to come, we'll leave. It's the same to come back another day." However, Eileen Chang said slowly, "my friends have come, you two!"

Real fashion bloggers, no matter when and where, have a kind of attitude of insisting on beauty. And this persistence is a habit, it does not belong to a certain age stage, but the whole life. Until her death in Los Angeles in 1995, she was also "dressed in cheongsam, dressed neatly, lying quietly on the marching bed against the wall".

Eileen Chang once said, "during the period of political chaos, people have no ability to improve their living conditions. They can only create their own intimate environment - clothes. Every one of us lives in his clothes. “

A man is like a garment, and his clothes shine on him. In her opinion, dressing is not only a matter of good looks, but also an attitude towards life.

A century has passed. Now looking back at Zhang Ailing's fashion collocations, she still has a long history. She has her own style, and she also develops innovative ideas of dressing. She takes life as a show, and has full of emotions to infect our loyal fans. It's really a fashion blogger!

And her chinoiserie is even bolder and more fascinating than ours. At that time, she knew to use "grandmother's clothes" to match Western clothing. Now that the national style is popular, should there be more new possibilities for the development of traditional clothing?