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With The Rise Of Hanfu Culture, Enterprises Can Apply For Patent Of Original Design Of Hanfu

2022/4/20 13:42:00 0


It's no surprise to see people in "ancient clothes" on the street.

After being highly concerned by the public and favored by young people for several consecutive years, Hanfu quickly became popular and stood on the wind. Relevant data show that in 2019 alone, there are thousands of registered enterprises related to Hanfu, and the sales scale of Chinese Hanfu market has increased from 190 million yuan to 6.360 billion yuan, and the scale in 2021 is more than 10 billion yuan.

How can such tuyere capital be missed? Back to the Han and Tang Dynasties, leading Hanfu brands such as Huashang Jiuzhou and zhiyuji, and the "three pits (Hanfu, JK, Lolita)" brands such as shiyiguangnian, Shiyu and wanhuajing have been successively financed.

With a scale of over 10 billion, the love of young people and the rise of national trends, the prospect of Hanfu industry is bright and prosperous. But the reality seems to be much more "peaceful" than the events described in the data.

Since 2020, the market index of each major network platform, including Hanfu and the main brands of Hanfu, as well as the relevant indexes of major groups, have declined significantly. In addition, the total sales output value of top 10 Hanfu merchants on Taobao in 2020 is nearly 900 million yuan, which is also lower than that in 2019.

Moreover, the struggle over the shape of Hanfu, Shanzhai, brand premium, product quality control and the industrial chain has never stopped. There are many "man-made" difficulties in this industry, and there are also many problems in this upsurge.

Can you recast the glory of the Han and Tang Dynasties by wearing Hanfu?

As a cultural symbol, Hanfu has gradually developed from a style of clothing to a way of life. Some new professions have emerged.

For example, the "Zan Niang" who specializes in making hairpins and accessories for Han clothes; There is also the Han makeup artist "make-up Niang", because of the complicated shape of Hanfu, complicated hairstyle and exquisite make-up, the threshold for beginners is very high. In many formal Hanfu activities, participants must turn to professional "makeup artists".

In addition to new jobs, Hanfu derivative industries, such as Hanfu marriage services, have also begun to grow.

At present, various Hanfu brands have launched a variety of Hanfu and wedding gowns that can be used for weddings, such as the "harmony between the Phoenix and the Phoenix" launched by more than thirteen years ago. Some wedding teams have also begun to take Han marriage planning as their characteristic products, and some large Hanfu associations have also begun to undertake Han wedding services.

However, in the final analysis, these Hanfu derivatives industry is still in the early stage of emerging supply and demand.

Take "marriage" as an example. It may not be possible to buy a suit of Chinese wedding dress which is in line with the style and exquisite. Even if it is customized, it will take a long time to complete.

Chinese wedding crowns and flower hairpins are mostly handmade by Zan Niang, which are exquisite in material and expensive in price. There are also relevant planning and service teams for Chinese wedding, but their level is different and there is no uniform service standard. At present, the market is still far more demand than supply, it is difficult to find a highly professional team.

On important life nodes such as weddings, it is of great significance for many people to return to the traditional culture of Hanfu wedding.

From the beginning of the revival of modern Hanfu, Hanfu has carried the significance of cultural heritage beyond clothing. There was a time when "do you need to do homework before wearing Hanfu?" Such topics have triggered extensive discussion.

"Homework" should be done at the enterprise level - whether the products are Ming Han clothing, song Han clothing or Han Tang element products, the manufacturer should at least clearly state. This requires the Han clothing industry to issue a unified production guidance standard.

For consumers, although the shape is not clear at the early stage, Hanfu is not only a kind of clothing, but also an important part of Chinese traditional culture. Out of respect for culture, we really need to understand the cultural connotation behind clothing.

Since ancient times, China has been known as the "state of etiquette". Japan has kimono, South Korea has Hanfu, they will also wear traditional clothes at weddings and traditional festivals, what about us? As a Confucian cultural circle, we have not had a uniform standard in the traditional dress.

However, it is gratifying that Hanfu is changing from minority culture to popular culture.

The popularity of film and television plays has become the driving force of the popularity of Hanfu. The discussion on the topic of Hanfu on social media is still very hot, and young people are more and more interested in Hanfu, driven by ancient costume dramas such as Chang'an twelve hours.

Therefore, the rise of Hanfu is inseparable from its own personalized and self-expression genes, it has the elements of free customization, patriotism and national confidence. Therefore, this is in line with the consumption psychology of "generation Z".

However, there are also some "fishing for fame" people in the "circle". It seems that if you wear a "Han suit" you can have "Wei Jin style". If you shout "no regrets into China", you will be able to reproduce the prosperity of the Han and Tang Dynasties. In this case, Hanfu has lost its cultural significance. Some businesses no longer pursue the cultural connotation of Hanfu. As long as they can cut more leeks, some customers don't care about the cultural connotation behind the Hanfu, as long as it looks like "Fairy Spirit floating" is different from others.

Hanfu has become a cultural symbol and spiritual symbol of some people. Waves of "innovation" and one gimmick after another are full of Hanfu circle, so that people can't tell whether it is carrying forward traditional culture or simply no culture.

What buyers want is a cultural carrier, which can match the spirit of "etiquette is summer", and compare kimono with Korean clothing, instead of expensive fast food without cultural connotation!

Shanzhai has just become a thing of the past, but it has fallen into the quagmire of "price war" and "cultural war"

At the beginning of the year, a proposal was put forward for the National People's Congress to hold a "Hanquan evening party" on January 2021; In April 2021, famous institutions such as station B, Tencent and Sequoia successively invested in Hanfu enterprises.

Behind the boom, however, the industry is full of chaos.

First of all, there is a dispute between fake products and authentic products. The production cycle of Hanfu is relatively long. From style design, plate making, fitting to final pre-sale and delivery, it takes at least two months.

Enterprises can apply for patent of original design of Hanfu. However, many companies say that it will take at least a few months to apply for a patent. Maybe after the application is completed, the sample drawings will be pirated and sold. Due to the low price, fast transportation and other factors, some authentic Hanfu sales can not be compared with the Shanzhai products.

On an e-commerce platform, an authentic Hanfu shop named qingpingdiao sold 117 pieces of Chinese clothing in a month, about 500 yuan per set, while the sales of pirated shops reached 459 pieces, about 140 yuan per set.

Therefore, it is not easy for the original Hanfu merchants to make profits.

At the same time, there is the phenomenon of hunger marketing, such as how many sets of a certain style are sold at a fixed time, and then they are directly out of print after shooting. If customers can't buy some high-end Hanfu, they will have to pay high prices for second-hand ones.

For example, a Nine Tailed Hanfu with an original price of 1099 yuan can be sold on the second-hand market for nearly 5000 yuan. Such high prices also make Hanfu, Lolita skirt and JK uniform known as the "three sisters of bankruptcy".

But high price does not necessarily guarantee high quality. Some high-end brands will "roll over". In 2018, someone bought a high-end Hanfu for 5450 yuan. After waiting for 10 months, I found that there were some technical problems in these clothes, such as opening the folds.

It is worth mentioning that at present, the place where the most production of Hanfu is an unexpected small county - Caoxian, Shandong Province.

There are more than 2000 Hanfu and its upstream and downstream affiliated enterprises in Caoxian. The reason why the public first knew this little-known place was that 90% of Japanese coffins were imported from Caoxian.

Relying on the mature shroud industry chain, Caoxian further produces and manufactures Chinese dance performance clothing and film and television drama clothing. Then seize the business opportunities of Hanfu, enter the e-commerce platform, and apply the production line of Shouyi and Xifu to the Hanfu production industry. Taking advantage of the rise of e-commerce, Caoxian quickly occupied a huge Hanfu market with rich experience.

I'm afraid that there is a sense of humor in the birthday dress, but it's the same place as the birthday dress.

However, one of the pain points of the sustainable development of Hanfu market is that the cost is coerced by the "low profit of e-commerce". In the early years, Hanfu stores were mainly self-employed, and the sales mode was customized. However, the production cost was high, the distribution cycle was long, and the profit and sales volume were relatively low. Customized stores with higher profits are mainly concentrated in the high-end market. Although the profits are high, the sales volume of customized stores is even single digit per month.

Therefore, at this stage, it is still the sub code clothing stores that occupy a large market share of Hanfu. The production cost of ready-made clothes is not high. The production price of a set of ready-made clothes is only 50-80 yuan, but the sales price of ready-made clothes can reach 100-300 yuan.

At this stage, Hanfu stores that still rely on e-commerce system will inevitably be affected by the price war under the "e-commerce" system in the competition.

With the further expansion of the influence of Hanfu, consumers have a deeper understanding of Hanfu culture. How to improve the design and texture of Hanfu has become an urgent task for Hanfu merchants. This will further increase the production cost of Hanfu and reduce the living space of Hanfu manufacturers.

Moreover, due to the historical reasons of the Han Dynasty, the specific style of the Han suit lacks a unified standard, and the chain of disdain in each circle is also common in the circle of Hanfu. The "shape school" emphasized the strict adherence to historical materials, while the "reformists" thought that the wide sleeve robes of the "shape school" did not meet the needs of modern life, which would hinder the further promotion of Hanfu. In addition, the Shanzhai Hanfu has seized the market, and the phenomenon of "bad money drives out good money" has emerged, and the development path of the whole industry is still unclear.

To change the industry, the "culture" of Hanfu should be redefined

In recent years, Hanfu market, which can best reflect the vitality of Chinese traditional culture, should have a sustained and good development momentum in theory.

However, in the past two years, the scale of Hanfu market has been shrinking, and well-known businesses have closed down one after another. Since the second half of 2021, nearly 20 well-known Hanfu brands have closed their stores. As for the reasons for closing stores, most of them are caused by objective factors such as capital, commodity pressure and the decline of purchasing demand under the epidemic situation.

For the sales side, Hanfu merchants must face two common problems: long product cycle and poor quality control.

On the one hand, the process of Hanfu is relatively complex and time-consuming, and the whole production cycle is extended. On the other hand, it is also because the audience of Hanfu is relatively small, and the sales volume is still "small". Enterprises are unable to order and produce as much as other traditional clothing, and upstream OEM factories are not easy to receive orders. Therefore, Hanfu can only take the way of pre-sale + final payment for a long time.

Looking for the cooperation mode of the substitute factory has also laid a hidden danger for the quality control problem. Forced and small brand, if you can't reduce the cost of production. Although big brands can choose more professional OEM factories, due to more SKUs, these factories need a "one to many" cooperation mode. In this way, it is more expensive and more difficult to communicate with the factory or go deep into the production process.

Of course, some big brands can solve the problem by building their own production bases. However, few brands can do this, and the layout of the whole industry chain also has the risk of being "completely destroyed in one net".

In addition to online sales, many head brands, such as returning to the Han and Tang Dynasties and zhiyuji, also set up offline stores.

Offline stores usually undertake many important tasks, such as customer recruitment, service experience improvement and brand building. If it only appears in brand collection stores, it is difficult for a single brand to achieve brand building. However, in the eyes of Hanfu practitioners, it is too early to talk about the "brand" of Hanfu industry.

Due to the low threshold of design, production and sales, Hanfu industry has many individual operators, small studios and small brands, and their products have no obvious difference. These players can only say that they have their own "brand", rather than build a brand.

In contrast, only a small number of enterprises stand at the top of the pyramid, like more than 13 can be called "brands". This is not because the capital enters the board, but because these brands themselves are big IP. For example, the founder of fangyuji is the star girl Xu Jiao. In fact, this is similar to the online Red e-commerce model: famous KOL directly acts as the brand spokesperson, and the fans accumulated over the years are the main purchasing force.

Moreover, because Hanfu has the characteristics of interest culture, the attraction of IP is always the key factor of Hanfu. Prior to this, more than 13 Clothing Co branded with the game "glory of the king" has received excellent repercussions, one of which is still the best-selling in the store; Hanshang Hualian cooperated with Zhimo to launch 14 co branded Hanfu, and the sales growth after online was also amazing.

However, the cultural connotation behind "Hanfu" is still unclear. In history, the appellation of Han people was named after dynasties. Whether before or after the Han Dynasty, the social groups classified as the Han nationality are based on the cultural identity of rites and music and consciously abide by the secular ethical value system.

Because this cultural community does not pursue the absolute value of metaphysics, but distinguishes between the same kind and the different kind according to the bottom line value of interpersonal relations such as etiquette and righteousness. Han Yu said in Yuan Dao that "in the spring and Autumn Annals, the work of Confucius, the princes use the rites of barbarism to barbarism, and enter China to barbarism". This means that the criterion for distinguishing between China and barbarians is whether they abide by the rules of rites and music, which has nothing to do with geography, lineage and economic activities.

In Chinese history, Han or Tang people were once the name of a specific human cultural community in this land, and the Han and Tang dynasties also reached the peak of human civilization in the same period. These two appellations are obviously different from the regional and ethnic categories emphasized by the modern national independence movement.

Obviously, some nationalists have misunderstandings about "Hanfu", and some people try to replace it with "Huafu". However, after all, the name of "Hanfu" has been deeply rooted in the hearts of the people, and it is not easy to change its name.

As a kind of cultural benefit, the clothing industry of Han Dynasty interacts with each other.

If Hanfu can transcend the narrowness of nationalism in culture, it will have stronger growth potential in dredging domestic and foreign markets and realizing "double cycle". There is no doubt that the vitality of Hanfu development will become the new force of the great rejuvenation of the Chinese nation and the vision of a cultural power.

The basis of Hanfu market is China, but its development blueprint must have an international perspective, which is not only because China's consumer market itself is quite considerable, but also can compete for the right to speak. An open China with increasingly strong economic strength and cultural charm is fully capable of developing a Hanfu cultural and economic system that can compete with the western suit system.

Although there have been disputes about strictly restoring history and actively improving and innovating, respecting history and innovating flexibly are the objective premise of forming market popularization and effectively realizing cultural inheritance in the contemporary context for traditional clothing taking Hanfu as an example.

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