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Local Industry: Variations Of Shantou Textile And Garment Industry

2022/4/29 22:49:00 0

Shantou

Lianjiang River flows out from the Dananshan mountain of Puning, and flows into the sea through Shantou Chaonan and Chaoyang. In the past, "the most polluted river in the whole province", now the river is smooth, the water is clear and egrets are dancing, and it is rated as "the top ten beautiful rivers and lakes in Guangdong Province". Lianjiang's "butterfly change" also witnessed the rebirth of an industry. Textile and garment industry is the largest pillar industry in Shantou, with a scale of over 100 billion yuan. With the ringing of the new year's bell in 2019, Lianjiang River regulation has entered a "dynamic real" state - all 183 printing and dyeing enterprises in Lianjiang River Basin of Shantou have stopped production. At present, Shantou textile and garment industry practitioners are not "lying flat". "Waste pollution into the park" takes off the pollution hat, sets up industry associations to keep warm, and organizes clothing Expo to seek transformation and upgrading... Shantou's textile and clothing industry ushers in transformation and transformation, playing a "variation" of industrial advancement. In May this year, the first China Chaoshan international textile and garment Expo will be held in Shantou. With this "east wind", Shantou textile and garment industry practitioners are taking advantage of the situation, shouldering the banner of "industry establishes the city, industry strengthens the city", and strides towards the spring of high-quality development.

Historical evolution

From family workshop to famous underwear town in China

Lianjiang is the mother river of Chaoshan area. It has nurtured numerous Chaoshan heroes and bred many famous textile and garment towns. From Chaoyang District to Chaonan District, four famous knitting underwear towns in China, namely, Gurao, Liangying, Xiashan and Chendian, have gathered here to form a well-known Chaoshan underwear industrial cluster.

Walking through the streets of Xibei village, Chendian Town, there are underwear production enterprises on both sides of the road, and batches of underwear are produced here. Cloth, lace, ribbon, sponge... From underwear bra derived from a wide range of supporting products, buyers come to purchase in an endless stream.

Speaking of Chendian underwear bra industry, we have to mention Cai Xinkai. He is 75 years old. He is the founder of Shantou Jinyi Clothing Industry Co., Ltd. and the first local entrepreneur to set up underwear factories. He is regarded as the pioneer of underwear industry in Chendian town. Cai Xinkai told reporters that the original idea of making underwear was "to solve the problem of wife's work". It turns out that women's underwear at that time was a simple wrapping cloth. "My wife has to carry dozens of catties of rice bags every day, which is uncomfortable and inconvenient." In order to help his wife solve this "problem", Cai Xinkai began to develop and improve women's underwear step by step.

"At that time, it was just in time for the new policy of reform and opening up that we had the opportunity to run factories and make underwear." Cai Yiran opened a large underwear factory for women and decided to open a large underwear market for women. "At first, many people called me a psychopath." In the 1980s, the villagers were conservative. Until 1984, the sales of brassieres made by Cai Xinkai increased greatly. Villagers brought sewing machines to the factory to learn and opened small workshops to make brassieres at home. "A bra sells for 1 yuan and 20 cents. In the early 1980s, a day's work earned two yuan." Cai Xinkai recalled that at that time, almost 80% of the families in Chendian town were making bras.

Since then, Chendian bra has spread all over the country. Around 1997, there were thousands of underwear manufacturers in Xibei village alone. With the introduction of more and more foreign capital and advanced technology, Cai Xinkai, who was not satisfied with bra production, opened printing and dyeing plants one after another, and also did computer embroidery. Today, Cai Xinkai has passed on the mantle of his son Cai Yonggui in the textile and clothing industry. Cai Yonggui has expanded his business to Shishi, Fujian Province, using advanced international and domestic supporting equipment, and its printing products are exported to Europe, America, Japan and other countries and regions. Now, there are more than 2000 underwear enterprises in Chendian Town, and Chendian town has developed into a "national key town", "a famous underwear town in China" and "one of the top 100 towns in Guangdong Province".

The start and development of Chendian underwear is the epitome of Shantou textile and garment industry. After decades of development and expansion, the textile and clothing industry has become the first industry with an output value of over 100 billion yuan in Shantou, and has formed a complete industrial chain from raw materials, twisting yarn, weaving, dyeing and finishing, warp knitting, embroidery, accessories to the production and sales of finished products.

According to the data provided by the industry and Information Technology Bureau of Shantou City, there are more than 7000 textile and garment enterprises in Shantou City, which is the largest underwear and household clothing production base in China. The output of underwear and household clothing accounts for about 45% of the country, and the famous brand products account for more than 75% of the country. In 2021, there are 688 textile and garment enterprises above the designated size in Shantou, with a total industrial output value of 114.419 billion yuan, accounting for 34.3% of the city's total industrial output value.

   "Discarding the pollution into the garden" and removing the "black hat" of pollution

However, with the continuous development of Shantou textile and clothing industry, environmental problems caused by printing and dyeing are increasingly apparent. In 2018, Shantou City seized the opportunity of comprehensive improvement of Lianjiang River Basin, and promoted printing and dyeing enterprises to "discard waste into the park" with the courage and determination of "breaking the wrist of a strong man".

Time back to 12:00 p.m. on December 31, 2018. When the New Year bell rings in 2019, all 183 printing and dyeing enterprises in Lianjiang River Basin of Shantou will stop production, and the textile printing and dyeing industry in Chaoyang and Chaonan districts will press the "pause button". "At that time, the printing and dyeing industry in Lianjiang River Basin was seriously polluted, which had a great impact on the environment. It was time to change." Zheng Linglong, executive manager of Shantou Longfeng printing and dyeing Co., Ltd., recalled in an interview with our reporter that in 2018, when the local government called on enterprises to stop production and enter the park, they responded quickly. "We stopped production for a year and a half, and we lost 600 million yuan, including the relocation of the park to build factories and the purchase of new equipment." Zheng Linglong said that although the temporary "loss", but printing and dyeing enterprises concentrated in the park is the general trend, this is a good opportunity for the transformation and upgrading of the whole industry and sustainable development.

Linglong got a quick confirmation. From March 2020, after upgrading and transformation, printing and dyeing enterprises that meet the relevant standards will move into the printing and dyeing park. The whole park will implement unified pollution control to realize industrial cluster development, transformation and upgrading and environmental improvement. In the roar of machines, Shantou printing and dyeing industry across the "pain period", and gradually ushered in recovery.

Today, there are 138 enterprises settled in Chaonan printing and dyeing park. In addition to 125 printing and dyeing enterprises, the park also attracts printing and dyeing auxiliaries, warehousing and logistics, fine chemicals, textile and clothing, textiles and other upstream and downstream enterprises related to printing and dyeing, initially forming a relatively complete industrial chain.

"After entering the park, upstream and downstream enterprises visit more frequently." Zheng Linglong said that the agglomeration effect of industrial clusters in the park is beginning to show, and opportunities are coming for enterprises to strengthen cooperation.

The reporter saw in the production workshop of Shantou Longfeng printing and dyeing Co., Ltd., that the top steam pipe, hot water pipe and other pipelines have been connected with the park, and the workshop automation rate is very high. At present, the annual production capacity of the first phase planning can reach 20000 tons. "In the process of moving into the park, our company eliminated high energy consuming equipment and optimized product upgrading and equipment selection based on the eight character policy of" energy saving and consumption reducing, efficiency increasing and emission reduction. " Zheng Linglong calculated an account with the reporter. In addition to government subsidies for upgrading the equipment, their company now uses the setting machine to save steam revenue of 1 million yuan / year / set, sewage heat recovery steam income is 3 million yuan / year, steam condensate recovery saves production water accounts for 8%, about 800000 yuan / year, "all machines can save more than 20 million yuan a year." Zheng Linglong said.

In addition, due to the centralized water supply and steam supply and the centralized treatment of industrial wastewater, the enterprises will no longer invest in the construction of sewage treatment facilities and boiler heating facilities, thus reducing the pressure on enterprise labor, construction funds, safety risks and construction land, and reducing the generation of various pollutants.

Ma Shaoyi, the Management Office of the textile printing, dyeing and environmental protection comprehensive treatment center of Chaonan District, Shantou City, said that at present, 102 enterprises have been put into operation in the park, and the total industrial output value of the park will be about 8.272 billion yuan in 2021. At the end of last year, the park was also listed as one of the ten typical cases of "belt and road" pollution reduction and carbon reduction synergy by the foreign cooperation and exchange center of the Ministry of ecological environment.

Upgrading and transformation

Build textile and garment industry cluster with more than 200 billion yuan

The textile and garment industry in Shantou has set sail again. However, after decades of development, the industry's short board has become increasingly apparent.

"The biggest short board is the lack of leading backbone enterprises." The relevant staff of Shantou industry and Information Bureau told reporters that although there are more than 680 textile and garment enterprises above the designated size in Shantou City, there is only one listed enterprise with a revenue of just over 1 billion yuan, while the revenue of many large garment enterprises in other provinces and cities has exceeded 10 billion yuan.

Due to the lack of leading enterprises, enterprises blindly follow the trend and imitate each other. The homogenization competition is serious and the product differentiation is not obvious. In addition, most of the small and medium-sized enterprises with traditional workshop style are still concentrated in the manufacturing and processing links, and there are few specialized companies, professional markets and public service platforms such as design, R & D, exhibition, e-commerce and supply chain. Most enterprises focus on relevant links in Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Dongguan and other Pearl River Delta cities.

In view of these problems, Wen Zhanbin, Secretary of Shantou Municipal Party committee, conducted an in-depth investigation on the textile and garment industry on October 24, last year. Centering on the working idea of "establishing the city by industry and strengthening the city by industry", he deeply understood the development status, existing problems and future trend of the textile and garment industry, and set a good example for the textile and garment industry to become bigger, stronger and better.

After the 12th Party Congress of Shantou textile industry was held, the first blueprint for the development of Shantou textile industry was held. The meeting proposed to speed up the construction of a new industrial development pattern of "three new, two special and one large". In view of the textile and clothing industry, which is one of the "two special", it was proposed to reconstruct the textile and clothing industry chain and value chain, support leading enterprises to establish industrial innovation alliance, build supply chain selection center and e-commerce industry park, integrate resources and smooth industrial circulation, We will accelerate the goal of building textile and garment industry clusters with an amount of over 200 billion yuan. How to achieve the goal of 200 billion yuan? One of them is to set up trade associations. In fact, there has been a call for the establishment of associations and group development in the industry. This urgent need was raised after the Government Enterprise Forum on October 24, which rekindled the enthusiasm of entrepreneurs. On that day, the preparatory group of Shantou textile and garment industry association was established.

Since then, Shantou Municipal Party committee, municipal government and industry and information technology department have held discussions with the members of the Association for many times and coordinated to solve the problems existing in the preparation process. The members of the association are greatly encouraged by the government's "gold medal shop waiter" service and its support and attention to the industry. Just over a month later, Shantou textile and garment industry association was established, officially opening a new pattern of textile and garment enterprises to attack in groups.

"Many enterprises have actively applied for membership. At present, more than 600 enterprises have joined the association, accounting for about one tenth of the textile and garment enterprises in the city, and almost all the characteristic enterprises in the industry are included." Yu Shaofen, secretary-general of Shantou textile and garment industry association, said in an interview with our reporter, "entrepreneurs are all moved. Now they feel love, and the whole textile and clothing industry is moving, and we are full of confidence in the future development."

Confidence up, then Shantou textile and clothing industry and how to achieve upgrading transformation? According to the relevant person in charge of the Bureau of industry and information technology of Shantou, Shantou is leading the textile and garment industry to develop in the direction of intelligence, high-end and clustering, and accelerate the planning and construction of "four major projects" of global textile procurement center, headquarters building, exhibition center and textile industrial Park.

At the same time, it will also accelerate the digital transformation, optimize the construction of a number of regional industrial clusters integrating R & D, design, production and other functions, and build a number of digital and intelligent chemical plants (workshops) pilot demonstration of intelligent spinning, intelligent printing and dyeing production, intelligent nonwoven production, intelligent weaving workshop, intelligent clothing, home textile workshop, etc.

In addition, Shantou will build a textile and garment opening highland in eastern Guangdong, make full use of the advantages of Shantou as a provincial sub central city and the precipitation foundation of a century old commercial port in the textile and clothing industry, and strengthen the integration and docking of Shantou, Chaozhou, Chaozhou wedding dress, Jieyang Puning's T-shirt and underwear.

In May this year, Shantou textile and garment industry will usher in a major event. The first "China Chaoshan international textile and garment Expo" will be held in Shantou's Chaoshan Expo Center. The Expo will build an international textile and clothing industry platform integrating brand promotion, cultural communication, exhibition and exchange, high-end forum and trend release. At present, more than 300 exhibition booths have been sold out, and the preparatory work is proceeding in an orderly manner

"We will continue to implement the" four major projects "of textile and clothing, promote the mutual benefit and win-win situation of Shantou, Chaozhou and jiejie, and speed up the construction of China's textile and garment industry base city from the perspective of holding China Chaoshan garment Expo." Shantou City Bureau of industry and information technology related responsible person said.

Lianjiang River is constantly flowing, singing the moving melody of ecological priority and green development. And Shantou textile and clothing advanced "variation" has also played quietly.

   interview with an expert

Chen Hongyu's articles on "fine textile" and "opening up" should be done well.

In the 14th five year plan for the high quality development of manufacturing industry in Guangdong Province issued by the provincial government this year, the modern light industry and textile industry is listed as one of the 20 strategic industrial clusters in Guangdong Province, and Shantou is clearly listed as the core city for the layout and development of "modern light industry and textile industry" in the east wing of the coastal economic belt. How can Shantou grasp the opportunity and take advantage of the situation to achieve the goal of creating a textile and garment industry cluster of more than 200 billion yuan? Guangzhou Daily interviewed Chen Hongyu, former vice president and professor of Guangdong provincial Party school.

Reporter: Guangdong is an important clothing Province in China, and has formed a number of garment characteristic industrial clusters. In comparison, what are the advantages of Shantou textile and garment?

Chen Hongyu: the first advantage of Shantou textile and garment industry is that it has a long history and tradition, which is reflected in the "fine" and "open" characteristics of Chaoshan culture. Shantou has a complete industrial chain advantage, from twisting yarn, weaving, dyeing and finishing, printing, jacquard, napping, warp knitting, embroidery and even accessories used in underwear such as mold cup, ribbon, weaving Mark, steel ring, bone glue, cloth hook, bead piece, etc. to the underwear finished product manufacturing, the industrial chain has developed and improved. Second, the target market segmentation is relatively accurate. Shantou textile is mainly concentrated in underwear, household clothing and woolen clothing, and has the advantages of concentrated characteristic industrial clusters. For example, the Chaoshan underwear industrial cluster based on the four "famous knitting underwear towns in China" in Chaoyang and Chaonan district is the largest knitted underwear, household clothing and underwear surface accessories in China Underwear accessories origin, its capacity scale accounts for about 50% of the same industry in China. Thirdly, the production and sales cost of Shantou textile and clothing is low, and its toughness is relatively strong, so it is less affected by objective factors and has strong toughness.

Reporter: what positive effects will be brought to the development of Shantou's textile and garment industry by establishing a textile and clothing association and holding a clothing Expo?

Chen Hongyu: the establishment of the industry association is a targeted and forward-looking measure. The association can form a large network, unite a large number of textile and garment enterprises, and establish a platform for resource sharing and information exchange. Shantou is duty bound to hold the clothing Expo, which is of great significance to the development of textile and clothing in East Guangdong. In order to build a more open service Expo, the relevant enterprises in the textile and garment industry in eastern Guangdong, Dawan District, Hong Kong and Macao will participate in the exhibition of various products, which will help attract more resources to Shantou, extend the supply chain and expand the industrial scale.

Reporter: how can Shantou textile and garment industry better connect with Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao Bay area?

Chen Hongyu: Shantou textile and garment industry should continue to do well in the two articles of "fine" and "opening up". The "fine" is to do a good job in internal management and product innovation, while the "opening" is to link up with the bay area and even the international market and integrate into the circle. We should actively integrate into the construction of advanced manufacturing system in Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao, take the initiative to undertake the industrial transfer of Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao Bay area, strengthen the scientific and technological innovation cooperation with Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao, and realize the dislocation, matching and coordinated development of design, technology and other industries between Shantou and Guangdong, Hong Kong and Macao.

(source: Guangzhou Daily)

 

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