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Traditional Textile Technology: 72 Processes Of Hong'An Large Cloth Weave The Beauty Of Simplicity

2022/6/13 11:27:00 41

Huang Zhenlan, 60, is sitting in front of an old-fashioned wooden loom in the intangible cultural heritage workshop of Hong'an big cloth traditional textile technology in Changsheng street, Qiliping Town, Hong'an county. Huang Zhenlan, 60, skillfully steps on the pedals with her feet and shuttles back and forth between the yarns. A piece of Hong'an big cloth is presented in front of the reporter.

"If you weave fast, you can weave about 10 meters a day." Huang Zhenlan said.

About 100 square meters of the shop, full of red cloth sewing bedding, scarves, shirts, pajamas and handbags.

The traditional textile technology of Anda cloth has a history of more than 1000 years, and Huang Zhenlan's craft is inherited from her grandmother. "My great grandfather had no legs and could not do farm work. He relied on his grandmother's spinning and weaving to make a living. During the revolutionary war, the people made clothes and bedding for the Red Army with the red cloth woven by a thread. Therefore, the red cloth has a distinctive red mark, which is also known as Red Army cloth." Huang Zhenlan said.

Later, grandma passed on the skill to her mother. Huang Zhenlan spun and woven with her mother when she was about 10 years old. When she was 16 years old, she had become her mother's right hand. Now she has passed it on to the daughter of the post-90s generation. In 2009, Hong'an Dabu successfully applied for the intangible cultural heritage of Hubei Province, and Huang Zhenlan became the representative inheritor. In order to protect and inherit this traditional skill, Hongan culture and Tourism Bureau provided her with this shop for free. In July 2010, Huang Zhenlan made an appearance at the Shanghai World Expo with the traditional textile techniques of Hong'an big cloth.

In 2013, Huang Zhenlan registered the trademark of "Huang Zhenlan". Now, she has three stores with a total business area of more than 700 square meters, an annual income of nearly 8 million yuan, and 50 permanent employees, driving more than 300 left behind women in the county to work at home.

Huang Zhenlan introduced that Hong'an big cloth is made of pure cotton by hand. It has thick hand, comfortable skin, warm winter and cool summer, breathable and sweat free, with fresh colors, lively rhythm and full of rules, giving people the beauty of simplicity. From a ball of cotton to a piece of cloth, there are 72 main processes, including sliver rubbing, spinning, thread picking, dyeing, sizing, barrel pouring, warp drawing, cloth carding, longitudinal threading, buttoning, and so on. There are 11 core processes, which are very complex. In recent years, she has actively cooperated with Hong'an county to hold training courses on traditional textile techniques of Hong'an big cloth, and taught them apprentices. Hong'an Dabu has gradually embarked on the road of industrial development, forming an industrial chain of cotton planting, spinning, loom manufacturing, weaving, garment making, skill training and online and offline sales, There are more than 150 market entities engaged in the production and sales of Hongan Dabu, 29 in Changsheng street alone, with an annual comprehensive output value of more than 60 million yuan.

At present, we are in contact with Hunan dahe'an red fabric. Hong'an county is also actively planning to introduce modern textile industrial enterprises in Shandong Province to combine with the traditional textile technology of Hong'an big cloth, so as to further promote the development of Hong'an big cloth industry.

(source: Hubei Daily)