"The Ceiling" Of Hanfu Fabric Industry

"When I buy Hanfu, I value the fabric and pattern of the dress, and I also pay special attention to the story behind the Hanfu." "Gorgeous Hanfu means a high level of weaving skills." "The" ceiling "of Hanfu fabric is Nanjing brocade." In various types of Hanfu interest groups, Hanfu enthusiasts talk about their own shopping experience, and from time to time share their concerns about Hanfu activities, and invite friends to come with them.

Among them, the second China Arts and crafts Expo, to be held in Nanjing, Jiangsu Province on August 18, has attracted the attention of many Hanfu enthusiasts, who have said that they will go together to punch in. Here, they are about to embark on a journey of collision between Hanfu and Gongmei. They will have a close contact with Chinese arts and crafts masters, learn about the past and present life of Arts and crafts works, take photos with them, and roam in the ocean of Chinese quintessence art.

If it is said that the combination of Hanfu and natural beauty is full of poetic and picturesque flavor, then the integration of Hanfu and traditional arts and crafts works has unique oriental charm. As Chinese people pay more and more attention to traditional culture, the popularity of Hanfu is getting higher and higher. According to Tianyan data, up to now, there are more than 3400 enterprises in China whose names contain "Hanfu, Handai clothing, hanyiguan", or whose business scope or product services include "Hanfu, Huafu, Hanzhuang, Handai clothing, Handai clothing", and their status is in business, survival, immigration and emigration. Among them, 78% are individual businesses, 18% are limited liability companies, and nearly 80% are Hanfu enterprises established within five years. In 2021, there will be more than 770 Hanfu related enterprises, with an annual registration growth rate of 17.2%. From the minority to the popular, from the focus on style to focus on culture and skills, now, Hanfu is not only a kind of clothing, but also the symbol and carrier of Chinese excellent traditional culture, highlighting the inheritance, innovation and development of brocade technology in China.

At the Expo, there will be many works of Nanjing brocade. What is the charm of cloud brocade fans? Recently, the reporter interviewed Jin Wen, the fifth master of Chinese arts and crafts, the representative inheritor of the national intangible cultural heritage project "Nanjing Yunjin wood machine make-up flower manual weaving technique" and a senior craftsman and artist at the research level to listen to his stories with Yunjin and Hanfu.

　　 Weaving methods cannot be replaced by machines

In the network language, "ceiling" refers to the ability to reach the peak, which means in the same kind of things in the highest level, can hardly be surpassed. Wu Meicun, a poet in the Ming Dynasty, once described Nanjing brocade in this way: "the south of the Yangtze River is good, and the looms capture the heavenly craftsmanship. The brocade of the clouds is rotten in the clothes of Kong Cui. The ice silkworms spit out the Phoenix fog and sell out the air. The new kind of small dragon group."

Nanjing brocade has a history of more than 700 years. Among the ancient silk fabrics in China, Nanjing brocade, Chengdu Sichuan brocade and Suzhou song brocade are called "three famous brocades in ancient China". Nanjing brocade is the first of the three famous brocades in ancient China, which combines the great achievements of brocade crafts of past dynasties. When Jin Wen introduced the brocade to the reporter, his voice was full of pride: "Brocade is known as" the crown of Chinese silk ", which is the peak of China's ancient silk weaving craft and culture, and the intangible cultural heritage of mankind (only 40 items have won this honor so far)

According to the data of Tianyan survey, there are 107 brocade related enterprises in China in the textile industry, textile clothing and clothing industry (the enterprise name contains "Yunjin" or the business scope includes "Yunjin", and the status of enterprises is in operation, existing, moving in and moving out). In terms of regional distribution, the number of Yunjin related enterprises in Jiangsu Province is the largest, but there are only more than 30.

It is self-evident that the history and unique weaving techniques of brocade play an important role in intangible cultural heritage projects in China. Jin Wen said that brocade has two bright spots. One is that brocade is purely hand-made, and weaving methods can not be replaced by machines. From this point of view, brocade is different from ordinary brocade that can be replaced by machines; Secondly, brocade is the most gorgeous and top-level brocade among all brocades. It uses traditional jacquard wood machine to weave by hand, dig flower plate to weave, and make up gold to apply color. It has formed the unique technology of "Ku brocade", "Ku Satin" and "makeup flower" to achieve the effect of "flower by flower".

　　 "Cunjin Cunjin" shows unique skills

The technology of pure hand weaving is irreplaceable, which also shows the unique value of brocade.

Different from the ordinary Hanfu which is made of bronzing or embroidery after choosing the base material, the pattern of Hanfu made of Yunjin is woven into brocade. "Brocade is known as" Cunjin Cunjin ", and its price is relatively high. In the past, brocade was usually used to make emperor's Dragon robes. Nowadays, clothes made of brocade are rarely put out for sale, because the price of a garment is tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of yuan. If other elements are added, the price may be higher, so the clothing made of Yunjin is basically all It's custom made. " Although the production of Hanfu is not the strong point of Jinwen, he also has some feelings when talking about the combination of Hanfu and Yunjin, "Some people say that the cutting of Western clothing is modern and three-dimensional, while Chinese clothing is not. This statement is wrong. Before, I copied and woven a Dragon Robe of the Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty. After studying, I found that the Dragon Robe was cut. Specifically, there were several pieces of cloth on the waist and legs of the Dragon Robe, and there was a diagonal line between them. We connected the diagonal lines The skirt under the clothes turns around once. It's turning. Why isn't it three-dimensional cutting

Jin Wen is known as "the first person to weave dragon robes". He and his team have copied and woven many ancient brocade works. Longpao is also a kind of Hanfu. In the process of communicating with reporters, Jin Wen repeatedly mentioned that he did not have much in-depth research in the field of Hanfu. "If we want to promote the Chinese clothing, we can't always contact with the people in the field of Hanfu, but I don't think that if we want to make a simple service in the field of Chinese clothing, we can't always contact with people in the field of Hanfu." Jin Wen sighed.

　　 The unremitting pursuit of culture behind love

In fact, the traditional Chinese culture represented by Hanfu is not only the clothing visible to the naked eye, but also the cultural memory which can not be seen behind but needs people to actively pursue. During the interview, Jin Wen threw two questions to the reporter: "why should Han Dynasty clothes have wide robes and big sleeves?" "It's not convenient to wear Hanfu now, but why should we wear it?"

Zhihu, many netizens also discussed these topics. Netizens nicknamed "Xiange" believe that wide robes and large sleeves can show their dignity and wealth, regardless of fabric and labor, and can create a broad-minded, leisure or delicate (women's clothing) visual effect. Netizen "Hongzi Lake Knight" thinks that the clothes are large in area and can be used for many articles, such as embroidery and etiquette. Ancient nobles have certain etiquette requirements for sitting, standing and walking, and the dress is also for these services. For example, big sleeves make people have to stick in their hands all the time. "Jiuzhanmian", a netizen, said when answering why he wanted to wear Hanfu: "to tell the truth, because it's good-looking. When I read the textbook, I was wondering whether Suzhou embroidery, gold weaving, makeup and other crafts were really attractive. Later I bought Hanfu and found that they really attracted me." The netizen "Maojiu" said that at first it was because of the good-looking Hanfu. Later, the deeper the understanding of Hanfu, the more I felt that the culture of Hanfu was very good. The plane cutting and layout of ancient Chinese were very intelligent.

Different people have different understanding of Hanfu. At present, many people come into contact with Hanfu through film and television works. The movie and TV play Meng Hua Lu, which was popular in June, attracted many people's attention to the Song Dynasty made Hanfu. "Nowadays, the main people wearing Hanfu are young people. They like Hanfu, but they may not have a deep understanding of the Chinese culture contained in Hanfu. In fact, if you like Hanfu, you need to really understand its culture and our growth history." Jin Wen said.

When it comes to why the ancients wore wide robes and large sleeves, Jin Wen gave the answer from the perspective of fabric weaving. "In ancient Han Dynasty, many fabrics were changed, such as flash satin. From different angles of observation, it produced different effects. People looked at it from one side as white flowers on black background, and on the other side, black flowers on white background. From this point of view, when the ancients walked in broad robes and large sleeves, their clothes would change color along with the movement of people. Bai Juyi wrote in the book" silk thread " It was once described in Chinese as "a wide cut shirt with long sleeves, a gold iron iron wave, and a knife cutting pattern.". It's a wonderful story, and you can see the flowers and flowers on the other side. " At present, it may be difficult for people to understand the concept of "looking at a color and looking at a color from the side". This also requires us to calm down and experience the historical memory of Hanfu Jin Wen said.

　 Let brocade "fly into ordinary people's home"

As an important expression of Chinese culture, Jinfu has a strong sense of expression in some occasions. "Ceremony itself is a kind of culture that can be transmitted. Through the carrier of Hanfu, many cultures of our nation can be displayed. The relationship between Hanfu and fabric is also closely linked. The change of fabric also has a great impact on the production of Hanfu. That is to say, it is not a simple thing for people to learn about Hanfu. Only after we understand Hanfu can we know and we can Appreciate, we can enjoy Hanfu. " He said.

The prosperity of Hanfu culture not only promotes the development of Hanfu industry, but also enables more people to see and understand the culture carried by brocade technology. The application of brocade in Hanfu is only the tip of the iceberg. Talking about how brocade clothing is combined with modern clothing, Jin Wen said: "we have cooperated with lotus clothing to produce a batch of high-end brocade fashion. We hold an exhibition in Shanghai to promote brocade into the fashion circle." Brocade has been in the high-end market since the royal palace. Jin Wen and his team have been actively exploring how to make brocade "fly into ordinary people's homes". They have also made cultural creation of brocade culture and produced digital cultural products and derivatives of brocade, such as the design inspiration from the wine bottle pattern of "five blessings and auspicious cloud dragon" of Yunjin Masks with traditional brocade patterns.

Nowadays, consumers can find more brocade figures in the market. Just as Jin Wen said in an interview with the media, "our task is to make it more and more rooted among the people, not into the museum. Only when young people like it can brocade be truly passed down."

Like the master of Jinwen, many inheritors of intangible cultural heritage have been exploring more contemporary works while copying and restoring many classic works. Whether it is brocade works or other arts and crafts works, it is the inexhaustible motive force to keep up with the times and keep up with the times.

(source: consumer daily)