Technical Reference For The Development And Performance Of Jacquard Patterns In Textile Fabrics Exported To Africa

　　 abstract

Retro materials are important for safety purposes, such as improving the visibility of pedestrians when wearing clothes made of recycled materials at night, thus reducing pedestrian deaths. This challenges different manufacturers to produce effective materials and provide the best recycled yarn. Most of these materials use stripes on clothes, but they can also be extended to craftsmen who use recycled yarn in their creations. However, there is a lack of recycled yarn and African design models (due to their symbolic value to African people) to create effective textiles with the characteristics necessary for night visibility. In this study, a new method is adopted, which combines jacquard weaving technology, recycled thread and African design pattern to produce retro recycled textiles. The reverse recovery defects captured subsequently in the darkroom show the reverse recovery ability of the sample. The test conducted by Kawabata Kangcheng fabric evaluation system shows that the total hand value (THV) of the sample is applicable to men's winter shirts and women's thin winter clothes (positive value), but not to summer clothes (negative value). This new approach may expand its concept to produce vintage recycled textiles that can be used for many different purposes.

Keywords: retro textiles, visibility, African design patterns, jacquard weaving, total price

Design introduction: pedestrian deaths account for a large proportion of all road deaths and injuries in Africa (Damse derry et al., 2010; Schlotman et al., 2017). In Africa, the number of cases is particularly high. In 2021, 35% of deaths in South Africa will be caused by pedestrian accidents (Stoltz, 2021), and 35% in Kenya (Kimuyu, 2021). According to the report of the World Health Organization (2013), this high proportion of pedestrian deaths accounted for about 38% of the total number of road traffic accidents in Africa in 2010. In 2013, the average road mortality rate in Africa rose to 40%, or 26.6 per 100000 people (World Health Organization, 2018).

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Ackaah et al Driver fatigue (Tulu et al., 2013), speeding, drunken drivers or drunken pedestrians (Aka and Aden, 2011; Zhao et al., 2017), visual impairment, low night lighting system (poor street lights), poor road infrastructure Low visibility of electronic devices and pedestrians when driving or walking (Aka et al., 2020; Kubanan and Gayote, 2004; Mphela et al., 2021; Schweiber et al., 2012) The latter, in addition to the low light conditions at night, leads to poor visibility of road users or pedestrians, which increases the collision between vehicles and pedestrians at night after dark (Sullivan and Flanagan, 2002) A key reason is the type of clothes that pedestrians usually wear without failure. According to green (2021), drivers can visually detect pedestrians to avoid possible collisions. In addition, poor visual perception in most cases makes drivers see pedestrians at night (Fylan et al., 2020), thus increasing the risk of accidents.

In fact, a recent article by Ghana News Agency (GNA, 2021) pointed out that Timminka Richard's Motor Transport and Transportation Department (MTTD) promoted people to wear low-quality clothes in Ghana to ensure safety and curb the road from knocking down at night even though many pedestrians in developed economies could buy these low-quality clothes on foot, Low aesthetic attractiveness and increased costs have led to pedestrian walking in African developing countries (Wood et al., 2012) However, considering the increase of pedestrian accidents in Africa, especially in Ghana, it has been suggested that road users wear casual clothes (Ackaah et al., 2020; Green, 2021; Terrell et al., 2004) to improve their eyesight, because most streets are dark and lack lighting infrastructure, so that they can be seen through approaching vehicles.

Although wearing clothes with attributes at night can benefit to ensure safety, the need for motivation and motivation to wear African patterns is cherished by Indians and can be creatively applied to enhance aesthetics, And their interest in and use of fabrics. Therefore, the research aims to use modern jacquard weaving technology to produce African textiles and cultural models to rekindle local interest and strengthen the need for refurbished clothing, to ensure safety. New methods use materials that can be used for daily wear in the day and night. Jacquard weaving technology is environmentally friendly and fast, Compared with the time-consuming and labor-intensive traditional weaving production methods, the craftsmen who widely practice the production of textiles do not produce odor or toxic waste from the jacquard weaving production process, and the potential danger is released to the environment calmly without functional performance to ensure the safety of the wearer, especially at night

Therefore, this study raised the following research questions: (i) How to improve the night use performance of African inspired textiles? (ii) What environmentally friendly methods or technologies can be used in the creation process of integrating African elements and retro elements? (iii) What are the performance characteristics of these retro renovated textiles with African cultural themes as design elements?

The significance of Te's research is to use design methods to expand the usability of recycled materials and cultural elements or models, which not only reduces the death of high fliers, but also further demonstrates the rich heritage of African culture. The world's practical design methods expand the scope of creativity to target 11 for residents who produce recycled materials in other cultures to achieve more sustainable road safety goals. Two of the 17 Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) in the UN 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development will increase people's interest in providing materials to ensure personal safety at night

　　 African model

Te African art forms are found by skilled craftsmen in the second largest continent of the world in the mode of local symbols. These art forms carry important information or meaning in other items, such as textiles, sculptures, pottery, buildings, baskets and jewelry. They tell unique events or cultural history. African models usually cherish their cultural values as identity, Audiences who use personal decoration and effective ways to convey information traditionally, indigenous people use these models to communicate on different media, for example, human history, events or events in the community. In addition to the color types used, these models further give individuals sadness or happiness about funerals or naming ceremonies. The African model of visual communication provides religious and social insights into their culture. The rich patterns in Africa are usually divided into two types; Geometric mode and geometric mode Tey is the visual expression of the culture's history, belief and philosophy (Evans, 2017) Their patterns may differ in style, shape and color depending on the cultural background. Craftsmen use different techniques such as weaving, carving, dyeing, sewing, painting and hand printing to create simple to complex visual forms.

The geometric patterns of Africa are composed of rectangles, triangles, squares and circles, which are incorporated into textiles and painted on the walls of other buildings. These geometric patterns have significant cultural value. Notable examples are the Ndebeler murals in South Africa, and the Kent Buhe murals in Canatu 1a and b show the main color choices (pink, green, sky blue, yellow, red to dark red) of these geometric patterns painted on the wall or woven into traditional types of murals from interesting design structures to audience information (Jcroman, 2015; Rose, 2013). In the Sirigu mural, there is no green theme in Figure 1a (i)

　　. It means hands. Zaalin daa Pattern 1 (ii) symbolizes male essence and Zaalin nyanga Pattern 1 (iii) symbolizes women's experience. The last two symbols are collectively called Zalinga or net. Use net containers or fsh or gourd nets to protect their gourds from breaking (Wemegah, 2013) Finally, the pattern 1b (i) in the geometric pattern layout 1 means the pot, symbolizing service, knowledge, therapeutic ability, recyclability and historical method k ɔ Twire people pattern 1b (2) means lean your poor or carry poor people (a noble person is generous when this pattern appears), symbolizing faith and hope (Ethel, 2019) The theme of Apremo in Figure 1b (iii) refers to classics, symbolizing resistance to foreign domination, and the theme of Nsafoa in Figure 1b (iv) refers to themes, symbolizing harmony, diversity, unity and unity of knowledge (Asibey et al., 2017)

Symbolic patterns are the images of animals and human beings, depicting the pattern of cultural types with historical significance. Usually in Benin, decals (West Africa) are cut by men to depict animals, humans, plants and objects, and then sewed into traditional woven fabrics (Jin, 2018) and Nigerian textile forms resistant to starch and dyed indigo colors. Simple to complex patterns are either woven Sewing, embroidery, Figures 2a and b show some glass patterns for African textile applications

　　 RetroSubare Vibrant Textiles

Although retro recycled materials have been developed and used in different regions, they are especially used in clothing production products to improve personal visibility at night, thus reducing fat. Import to the material surface using one of two system technologies:

Embed glass beads and corner cube or prism decoration (3M, 2014; Onlu&Halaceli, 2012). Vintage recycled fabrics are made by applying adhesive on the surface of the base cloth and embedding glass beads on the cloth The structure it creates adds a layer to the base fabric, which may inject its final thickness and tactility. Alternatively, retro refurbishment inks can be used to imprint design patterns to convey the refurbishment effect. This ink enhances the ability to reflect light back to the source without scattering it Lloyd (2008) further added that, without absorbing light, the three key principles of retro reflection or reflected light: specular reflection, refraction and total internal reflection. The most basic retro reflection is the refractive index of glass beads, which is a necessary feature (Taek et al., 1999). It determines the visibility and reflection distribution of light without scattering the reflected light in different directions. Retro reflective textiles are used for renovating clothing, backpacks, and stripes on construction vests, bicycle clothing, etc.

method

Design models or frameworks are widely used by designers, which generate a series of events or activities in the creative process, especially when using technology and cultural elements to produce innovative products, Arslan et al. (2020) developed a story of the design process culture inspired jacquard fabric The activity chain of the design process mapping of the Ottoman Sultan community used relevant sketches to import into digital software (editing) An effective alternative model for jacquard fabric color selection proposed Mathur (2018)'s design sequence for jacquard fabric color and weaving selection through the computer-aided design (CAD) system. All these frameworks provide necessary reference materials for this study to create an ideal retro textile design process

Kaoli, broken gourds and flying nets play an important role in the lives of indigenous people.

Various weaving structures for parameter setting Select cultural elements and parameters Jacquard woven fabric samples Composite graphics and patterns are uploaded to ArahWeave Isolation Design Jacquard LoomTe experiment with easy recognition of weaving structure Two color schemes are used e. , black and white, the former represents the design pattern or weft, the latter represents the warp format, usually creating a reverse design pattern on the back of the textile, which makes it possible to use either side of the textile Te braiding structure is one weft face to one warp face and one weft face to one warp face (Figure 6).

The defective thread and polyester yarn are woven into three theme patterns with African textile samples. The speed of the jacquard loom is 300 rpm, the warp density is 47.1 end/cm, and the warp density is 8167 end. All woven fabrics are assumed to be 160 cm (width) and 90 cm (length). Table 1 shows the particularity of woven texture samples marked RF 1

Structure 1/3 Twill and ¼ Fracture twill; RF 2 Yes ¼ Broken twills and ¼ Satin, move 3; RF 3 Yes ¼ Satin, Movement 2 and ½ Twill.

Experimental

Physical and mechanical tests were carried out on three kinds of braided samples with different braided structures and design patterns, and their reverse reaction defects were tested. These test procedures involve providing performance characteristics for their final application. The sample was conditioned for 24 hours at a standard atmospheric temperature of 65 ± 2% relative humidity (RH) and 21 ± 1 ° C The test method is as follows:

　　Refective efects

In order to test the fault defect, the sample was photographed with a digital camera, in daytime light, and then in the dark at a distance of 1.5 meters.

Fabric weight and thickness

The electronic balancer (BX300, Shimadzu Company) and the digital thickness table 2 with a fixed pressure of 4g/cm measured the thickness and weight of the fve samples of three kinds of fabrics respectively using the test method of ASTM D1777-96, and calculated and recorded the average value of the fve samples

Structural morphology The Te structure of the sample was observed with an optical microscope (Leica M165 C) at a magnification of 500 µ m.

Low stress mechanical properties

The bending, compression, surface, shear and tensile properties of fabric samples were tested with the KES-F testing instrument (Kato Giken Co., Ltd. Japan) e. , tensile and shear tester (KES-FB1), pure bending tester (KES-FB2), compression tester (KES-FB3) and surface tester (KES-FB4). Measure the sample for Te test and cut it into standard size 20 × 20 cm, and then conditioned under standard atmospheric air and humidity.

Air permeability

Use an air permeability tester (KES F8 AP1; Kato Giken Company, LtdJapan) to measure the permeability and permeability of the sample in the air, and record the resistance R in kPa s/m according to ASTM D737-04 Five samples of three textiles were tested, and their average values were calculated and recorded.

thermal conductivity

Use KES FB7 Termo Labo detector (dry contact ° C) to evaluate the thermal conductivity 2.. And preset at 30.3 ° C) and then place it on the fabric specification to transfer heat from BT box through the fabric water tank. The heat loss (watt) is displayed on the digital panel. The thermal conductivity k is calculated (W/cm ° C) using k=W · D/A · ∆ To (where W is the heat loss, the unit of reading on the digital panel; D is the thickness of the sample; A is the area of BT box and ∆ T, o is the temperature difference). After obtaining the value in (W/cm ° C), convert it to SI units of W/mk.

Tensile strength

According to the grab test method in ASTM D5034, use the Instron 411 tester to measure the tensile strength of the sample in the longitude and latitude directions. Cut 5 samples from each of the three 10 x 20 cmte woven textiles, with the top and bottom jaws of the tester centered on the sample The specification length of the test is set to 75 mm and the speed is 300 mm/min.

Main hand value and total hand value

The main hand value (PHV) and total hand value (THV) of three samples (roughness (softness)) were measured according to Kawabata Kangcheng Fabric Evaluation System (KES FB). The low mechanical stress properties of the sample were calculated to obtain tactile comfort, that is, the total value of the hand (Kawatka&Niwa, 1975).

Results and discussion

This section provides the test results of woven fabric samples to answer the third research question of this study.

　　Relective efects

Te braided samples and effective thread inspection In the daytime and dark room images, use a digital camera to identify the recovery of braided samples from a distance of 1.5 meters, as shown in Figure 7, Figure 7a-c shows the regeneration threads of three braided samples in visible mode, followed by Figure 7a and black Figure 7b and c, It is obvious that the recovery ability of woven samples captured by digital camera and textiles washed (Fig. 7d-f) is obvious

The test results show that the fabric weight of RF 1 is 272.08 g/m2, RF 2 is 276.28 g/m2, and RF 3 is 272.5 g/m2 The thickness of steel fabric (mm) is as follows: RF 1 is 0.75, RF 2 is 0.67, and RF 3 is 0.62, so RF 1 is thicker than RF 2 and RF 3.

Structural morphology

All textiles were observed at 500 µ m magnification (Fig. 8) Te image in Figure 8 shows that the reflection ray is embedded with small glass beads, which have the ability of reflection and can reflect light on the same path without scattering.

Bending performance

The bending stiffness (B) and bending hysteresis (2HB) values of braided samples were recorded The results of Figure 9a and b in Figure 9a are shown respectively

The longitude and latitude directions indicate that the value of RF 1 is the lowest than that of RF 3 and RF 2 Tis indicates that RF 2 cannot resist bending during processing, while RF 2's bending braiding combination（ ¼ Broken twill, ¼ Satin, move 3) to help it resist bending Te results of 2HB in Figure 7b show that RF 1 has the lowest value in the twist direction compared with RF 2 and RF 3. Therefore, the recovery effect of RF 1 after bending is better. RF 2 has different design patterns and weaving combinations（ ¼ Broken twill, ¼ Satin, move 3), has the lowest 2HB value in latitude direction, so it can recover better after bending.

Compression performance

Te diagram in Figure 10 shows that the compression linearity (LC) and compression energy (WC) values RF 3 have a slightly higher LC value than RF 1, indicating a higher compression behavior, which is the woven and warp fabrics with injected compression properties (Mukhopadyhay et al., 2002) On average, LC values have a similar range, indicating the relative hardness of samples with different braiding structures and design patterns. The high WC value of RF 2 means that the sample needs slightly higher compressibility or higher compression energy. This may be due to the braiding combination pf of RF 2 ¼ Broken twills and ¼ Satin (move 3) relative to RF 3 ¼ Satin (Movement 2) and ½ Twill. However, RF 1 is similar to RF 2 in construction and braiding combination

1/3 Twill and ¼ Break the twill, so lower compression energy is required. In terms of compression elasticity (RC), RF 1 has better recoverability, while RF 2 and RF 3 have quite similar value ranges. Ozguney et al.

The friction coefficient (MIU), fabric mean deviation (MMD) and fabric roughness (SMD) were measured to determine the surface properties of the samples. The results are shown in Figure 11a and the MIU values in the twist direction of bIn. The MIU values of RF 2 show that, even though the values are within a similar range, they are not slippery or have more friction than RF 1 and RF 3. In the latitude direction, the MIU value of RF 3 is higher than that of RF 1 and RF 2 This shows the resistance movement of RF 3 between friction objects or fnsatalie et al.

Te MMD value reflects the roughness of the fabric surface. The higher the surface roughness, that is, the higher the surface roughness, the higher the MMD value of RF2, followed by RF 1 and RF 3, as shown in Figure 9b in the latitude direction

. 11 Friction coefficient (MIU), q fabric mean deviation (MMD) and>fabric roughness (SMD - µ m). RF recycled fabric

RF 3 has the highest MMD value, followed by RF 1 and RF 2. Te SMD values were measured to determine the uniformity of the fabric surface.

The SMD values of RF 2, RF 1 and RF 3 are the highest, as shown in Figure 11c, which indicates that the surface of RF 2 is uneven in the twisting direction. In the latitude direction, the SMD value of RF 3 is higher than that of RF 1 and RF 2. RF 2 and RF 3 have high MIU values on Te surface in warping and weft directions, indicating that they are relatively few, and the latter may also be due to weaving combination (i. e, ¼ Broken twill and ¼ Satin, RF 2 mobile 3; ¼ Satin, move 2 and ½ Twill RF 3) and these two weaving textile design patterns.

Shear property

By using the shear stiffness (G) value, the shear force hysteresis at 0.5 ° (2HG) and the hysteresis force at 5 ° (2HG5), measure the Te sample to determine its shear performance (recovery after shearing) Te G, 2HG, and 2HG5 values of RF 3, RF 1, and RF 2 are reduced respectively. See Figure 12a cTe for a higher G value, indicating that the G value of RF 2 is lower, and the 2HG and 2HG5 values of RF 2 are lower, indicating that the sample has a good recovery rate or recovery elasticity, while the recoverability of RF 3 is poor, and the 2HG value after shearing is higher.

tensile property

Te tensile elasticity (RT), tensile energy (WT), tensile linearity (LT) and ductility (EMT) were measured to determine the tensile properties of woven textures. As shown in Table 2, RF 1 has the highest LT and WT in latitude and longitude The higher LT of Te means that RF 1 is more robust and harder than RF 2 and RF 3. For WT, the higher the WT of RF 1, it means that compared with the other two samples, this sample is easier to stretch and can withstand external stress during the stretching process.

　　. Compared with LT and WT values, RF 2 and RF 3 have the highest RT and EMT, respectively. The high velyTeRF2 in the twist and latitudinal directions indicates that the sample has good recoverability and is subjected to tensile stress RF 3. However, the maximum EMT therefore indicates good elongation or elongation

Air permeability

　　. . Te recording results are plotted on the three samples of air resistance (kPa s/m) value shown in Figure 13. The lower values of different braiding structures indicate good permeability or permeability, etc. The lowest RF1R value is compared with RF2RF3, so more air penetration will ensure comfortable wear The results show that the woven structure of RF 3 will affect the air permeability of the fabric, and ultimately affect the abrasion resistance

thermal conductivity

The Te k value of the thermal conductivity of the sample in Figure 14 shows that the k value of RF 2 is the lowest, followed by RF 3 This indicates that the structure of RF 2 cannot easily release body heat from the atmosphere into the atmosphere. Fabrics such as RF 2 can be used in cold weather because body heat is captured longer before being released into the atmosphere RF 1 has the highest k value, which indicates that the sample is easy to release more heat into the atmosphere, which clearly indicates that the fabric structure can inject thermal conductivity to achieve final wear comfort (Musa et al., 2021).

Tensile strength

　　. Te tensile strength is a necessary attribute of woven textiles, which determines how much fabric expansion or elongation can withstand the maximum force factor further injected according to Ke and Li (2003) human movement relaxation or inhibition movement when wearing clothing from this sample, the results plotted in Figure 15 show that reducing the force required to break woven textiles, with RF 1 having the highest force followed by RF 2 and RF 3 twisting direction The fracture propagation of RF 1 is greater, followed by RF 2 and RF 3. However, in the latitudinal direction, the force and extension force at fracture are reduced

RF 1, then RF 3 and RF 2. The extension of RF 1 requires more force, which may be attributed to its knitting combination, which means that the twill knitting combination gives the woven textile good tensile strength.

Main hand value and total hand value

　　. PHV, PHV, PHV, PHV and THV are used for testing, and the results show that the hardness of RF 1 is the highest, followed by RF 3 and RF 2 This may be due to the high shear, bending and compression properties, which largely inject the elasticity and suffocation of any given fabric (Sun&Stylios, 2006) In general, the samples have enough suffocating male winter shirts. Even though the PHV and THV of RF 2 are lower than the average, the brittleness of all three samples is negative, so there is no sense of brittleness. The follow-up results are positive, plump and soft. The anti wrinkle suffocating sample RF 3 has the highest fullness and softness value and RF 1 is crisp, so there is a sense of brittleness. THV shows that all three samples are suitable for male winter shirts, RF 3 displays the highest THV, followed by RF

1 and RF2. However, this kind of textile is not suitable for men's summer dress shirts, because THV values are negative.

The thin skirts in winter and summer were evaluated, and the results showed that the hardness, smoothness, fullness and softness of RF 1 were the highest, followed by RF 3 and RF 2 Answer: All three samples have a positive THV, which means that RF 3 has the highest value for all samples. Therefore, RF 3 is suitable for thin winter summer. THV values show negative RF 1 and positive RF 2 and RF 3 even if they have a poor rating From the THV value, RF 1, RF 2 and RF 3 fabrics are suitable for men's winter shirts and women's winter skirts. Subsequent results show that RF 2 and RF 3 are suitable for women's summer skirt

conclusion

The defective textiles in this study are made from recycled yarn and polyester yarn through jacquard weaving, and their patterns are from Africa (especially from Sirigu murals) In conclusion, three valid woven fabric samples were evaluated according to the standard test procedure. The design process uses different knitting combinations and colors on effective woven fabrics, and injects physical and mechanical properties. The subsequent test procedure shows the changes of low stress mechanical properties, air permeability, thermal conductivity, tensile strength and THV value of the fabric The total hand value of KES-FB system shows that, on average, positive woven textiles are suitable for men's shirts and women's thin skirts in winter. Relatively speaking, the developed retro recycled textiles have good physical and mechanical properties, mechanical properties, permeability, tensile strength, thermal conductivity and African model (which highlights the cultural value of Ghana's indigenous people).

By checking the performance of fabric samples produced using recycled yarn on jacquard looms, the academic significance is that this research further promotes the literature experiment practice of retro recycled textiles through design methods, and expands the performance of weaving, yarn combination and pattern types into retro recycled textiles, which is of industrial or practical significance, The design method studied provides designers and manufacturers with some insights to develop and improve the performance of these textiles by faulty threads or other creative methods to ensure not only aesthetic value but also personal safety of clothing will promote eforts to ensure safe nighttime pedestrians on the road

Limitations of the study

Although we have provided the data on the relevant performance characteristics of fabric samples, there are some limitations in the research. The mechanical and physical properties between different yarn combinations, modes and weaving methods have not been established. Because there is no appropriate instrument to test some quantitative data of fabric samples, such as qualitative data, in the study

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