Wenzhou Held: CTTC National Textile And Garment Inspection Technology Innovation And Development Forum Again

We should consolidate the power of innovation, give full play to the advantages of the platform, enhance the level of detection technology, and speed up the pace of entering the new era of textile and clothing quality.

In recent years, new textile materials, new processes and new technologies have springing up, and individualized design products are emerging one after another. People's requirements for product safety, comfort, functionality and personality styles are constantly increasing. Researchers in the field of standard testing in China actively explore and innovate, closely follow the market orientation in testing methods and product standards, and meet the quality control needs of new products to the maximum.

In October 31st, it was hosted by China Textile Standard Inspection and certification Limited by Share Ltd, the national textile products quality supervision and inspection center, and the National Textile Standards Committee's textile and textile branch. The Wenzhou Fangyuan Instrument Co., Ltd. hosted the special forum on the development of 2019CTTC's National Textiles and clothing Testing Technology innovation and development, specially supported by China fashion magazine. The forum was held in Wenzhou.

Yang Jizhao, vice president of China Federation of textile industry, Zhao Qiang, former president of China Textile Research Institute, Lin Jiangxin, President of Wenzhou quality and technology supervision and testing institute, Wang Baojun, deputy general manager of Limited by Share Ltd, China Textile Standard Inspection and certification, and Liu Shijie, vice chairman of Hunan Textile Industry Association, National Textile Industry Standardization Committee, Hunan Textile Science Research Institute. The vice president of the Academy, the deputy director of the national textile Standardization Technical Committee and the general manager of Wenzhou Fangyuan Instrument Co., Ltd., Zhu Kechuan and other leaders and representatives attended the forum.

Industry gathering, agglomerating innovation power

Yang Jizhao, vice president of China Textile Industry Federation, first said in his speech that the CTTC special forum on national textile and clothing inspection technology innovation and development is a professional platform to provide technical exchange and learn from each other, and fully affirmed the outstanding contribution made by Limited by Share Ltd to China's standardization work. "By the end of 2018, the total number of industry standards has reached 2277, which has increased by 361.9% compared with the beginning of reform and opening up in 1978. The standard system of national standards and industry standards, mandatory standards and recommended standards, and all kinds of standard matching standards have been formed." Yang Jizhao said. He also said that testing is an important technical basis for passing the trust of products. I hope that all the delegates will gather together and gather consensus to explore the positive role of detection technology in improving product quality and promoting sustainable development, and make greater contributions to the creation and creation of China.

Wang Baojun, deputy general manager of China Textile Standard Inspection and certification and director of the national textile products quality supervision and inspection center, said in his speech that the China Textile Standard started hosting the forum in 2012, which is to provide an exchange and discussion platform for the industry. The quality of textile products first depends on the testing index, and the testing technology bears the brunt. In the implementation, the inspectors have different understanding of the standards. We are gathered here to express their views and discuss the problems encountered in the actual work. Through this platform, we can learn from each other and draw lessons from them, and push the standards forward. At the same time, Wang Baojun expressed his appreciation on behalf of the Wenzhou Fangyuan Instrument Co. Ltd. and its participants.

"Textiles occupy an important position in the field of consumer goods and are closely related to people's lives. China's market economy standard is constantly standardized, and the quality and safety performance of textile products are more and more emphasized by producers and consumers." The deputy director of the National Textile Standards Committee, the textile and fine arts branch, said that the forum invited experts and scholars from the field of clothing testing to share the innovation and development of textile testing, which has a positive impact on the promotion of textile testing technology in China.

Lin Jiangxin, President of Wenzhou quality and technology supervision and testing institute, said in the introduction: "Wenzhou is the Pioneer Area of reform and opening up, and clothing is one of the five traditional pillar industries in Wenzhou. It has many characteristics, such as many enterprises, varieties, quality and brand influence, etc., and owns the clothing name card of China's famous clothing city and Chinese leisure wear city." 2019CTTC the National Forum on innovation and development of textile and garment testing technology is not only a gathering for garment inspection peers, but also a great impetus to promote the overall quality of garment industry.

Tackling tough problems to solve the "stubborn disease" in the industry

All along, fabric pilling is troubling the enterprises and testing organizations. It is difficult to understand the standard, the key points of rating are not good, and the eyes are uneven. In order to help the inspectors master the experimental skills, help enterprises improve their product quality and meet the requirements of the unified vision of the laboratories, the forum once again exchanged and discussed the heavy and difficult issues of pilling detection technology. In particular, the experts and scholars in the industry were invited to give a detailed explanation of the current pilling detection methods, development trends and related grading techniques.

Zhou Yongkai, Professor of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, focuses on the fabric's appearance retention and its influencing factors. In consumer complaints about the quality of clothing products, the pilling percentage is the biggest, which has become one of the most troublesome problems of fabric producers and clothing brands. Zhou Yongkai focused on the anti fuzzing and balling properties of fabric and its influencing factors, and introduced in depth the pilling process and prevention and improvement of fabrics. By changing the friction between fibers and increasing internal resistance, the processing methods of fibers in the process of forming fabric and the existing form of fiber dimension were changed, and the washing methods and conditions were changed, so as to prevent fiber pilling. Zhou Yongkai suggested that enterprises should strengthen consumer related (dress and wash) publicity, and help consumers solve the problem of fabric pilling from the perspective of professional and technical knowledge.

Pilling is one of the key items in quality checks besides mandatory standards. It is also one of the main items of quality failure. Besides sweaters, Western-style clothes, loose structure, leisure, underwear and so on, it also attracts much attention. Wang Baojun, deputy general manager of the China textile standard group, focuses on the issue of product standards in the discussion of "pilling detection and evaluation". "At present, most of the product standards are still based on the production standard instead of the trade type. The standard target is divorced from the actual purpose, occasion and usage cycle." Wang Baojun said that according to the level of the product can be determined indicators, rather than according to wear requirements and occasions to determine indicators, which led to the standard selection method and indicators are determined not meet the actual demand. Detection data do not fully represent the actual performance, there are differences between different testing instruments, testing organizations and personnel. Therefore, Wang Baojun suggested that practitioners should realize that standards are the lowest threshold, not the highest goal. Improper detection methods will cause misjudgement in performance. Therefore, product compliance is not equivalent to quality clearance, and product qualification does not mean that quality will not be a problem.

Dr. Ding Ruoyao of Shanghai Textile Group inspection standard Co., Ltd. takes wool fabrics as an example. The keynote speech on the factors affecting wool pilling and its detection methods is published. The causes of wool pilling are analyzed in depth from the aspects of wool shape structure, wool scale structure and wool structure, and the improvement method is proposed. "In addition to increasing fabric density, singeing and shearing treatments, it is also possible to increase the antistatic properties of the conductive fibers in wool fibers appropriately, and choose the appropriate finishing process, such as the use of keratin to treat the flake layer, which can effectively improve the pilling condition of the fabric."

There are many methods for pilling test in the industry, such as national standard GB, European standard ISO, American Standard ASTM, etc., but pilling performance often changes with time and wearing condition. In the actual wearing and washing process, the nursing conditions are different, and the pilling is also different. Hu Sujuan, director and senior engineer of Ruyi woolen garment group laboratory in Shandong, believes that no test method can completely reflect all clothing and all people wearing pilling and pilling trends. In the experience sharing of woolen woven fabrics in pilling test, Hu Sujuan introduced the self creating pilling test method -- self grinding. "According to the national standard test method, the fabric can test the qualified products of the pilling index, and it will also appear in the armpit and crotch position when the actual consumers wear the clothes." She said. In order to eliminate hidden dangers, a self pilling test method was created. This test method mainly simulates the pilling of clothing axillary parts and the friction between the crotch position itself.

At the afternoon meeting, Wang Ru, deputy chief engineer of Wenzhou Fangyuan Instrument Co., Ltd., showed you the latest development of GB/T 4802.1 standard brush. "We have great controversy over the standards of pilling. We have not given up, and gradually solved the core difficulties and doubts of the test. In marketing the standard brush, the company invested huge manpower and material resources. Since its establishment, Wenzhou Fangyuan instrument has been continuously trying various schemes to solve the problem of brush thoroughly. We have tried nearly 100 kinds of nylon yarn with different specifications only on nylon material selection. After decades of strict comparison and testing, we gathered a lot of data and accumulated rich experience. Finally, the standard nylon brush made of Australian raw nylon is used as raw material to process the standard brush. It has the characteristics of uniform thickness, strong rigidity, good recovery, abrasion resistance and smooth cross section.

Wenzhou Fangyuan Instrument Co., Ltd. was founded in 2003. It specializes in R & D and production of all kinds of material testing instruments. It takes technological innovation as the core competitiveness of enterprises, and invest a large amount of funds every year in product development and technology upgrading. Successively obtained 24 national innovation fund, torch plan, national key products, provincial and municipal science and Technology Project Awards, 25 patents (including 3 invention patents), and obtained the universal material testing machine "manufacturing license for measuring instruments" and so on.

After that, the forum entered the field of vision comparison, and the participants and local representatives exchanged questions and answered questions.

2019CTTC successfully organized the National Forum on textile and garment inspection technology innovation and development, marking the trend towards more refined and comprehensive textile testing standards. The future Limited by Share Ltd will continue to focus on the industry hotspots, consolidate innovation strength, give full play to the platform advantages, enhance the level of detection technology, and accelerate the pace of entering the new era of textile and garment quality.