Gao Yong: Opening Up A New Era Of Inheritance And Development Of Textile Heritage

Opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile Heritage

Gao Yong, Party Secretary of China Textile Industry Federation

November 3, 2019

The third China Textile intangible cultural heritage Conference

Today we convene the third China Textile intangible cultural heritage conference at the beautiful Yunnan Kunming college. At this session, there are a number of important historical nodes. We celebrate the 70th anniversary of new China in the whole country and the socialism with Chinese characteristics has entered a new era. The major social contradictions have shifted to the contradiction between the growing demand for better life and the imbalance and inadequate development of the people. On the basis of realizing a well-off society in an all-round way in 2020, China has begun to work towards a socialist modern power. From the perspective of the textile industry, the goal of textile power has basically been achieved. Further consolidating the competitive advantage of the industry, promoting the development of the industry towards high quality and realizing the new expectation of people's better life have become the main strategic objectives and tasks of the textile industry in the new era, and the textile intangible heritage undertaking will also enter a new era, providing important cultural soft power support for the further transformation and upgrading of the industry and the realization of the future strategic objectives.

To this end, the main task of this conference is to explore the strategic plan and work idea of "opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage". Next, I will focus on two points for discussion.

Remarkable achievements have been made in the textile and heritage industry.

And main problems

The achievements are summed up in three aspects as follows:

First, the direction of the textile intangible heritage undertaking is clear and the good ecological environment has begun to take shape. The spirit of the Central Committee and the state ministries and commissions on carrying forward the fine traditional Chinese culture and revitalizing the traditional arts has become a guiding ideology and action guide for textile intangible cultural heritage work. The textile heritage work has effectively linked with the relevant national strategy implementation, and has played a positive role in the integration of tourism and tourism, the poverty alleviation and revitalization of the countryside, the promotion of consumption upgrading, and the construction of "one belt and one road". The important part of intangible cultural heritage embodies the essence of history and culture of textile, dyeing, weaving, embroidering, printing and national costumes. It has attracted more and more attention from all walks of life. Governments at all levels, industry organizations, enterprises and institutions, design and brand organizations, institutions of higher learning, and news media have recognized the importance and urgency of the inheritance and development of textile heritage. They have played their respective roles and formed a resultant force. The development of textile intangible heritage has begun to form a good social and industrial atmosphere. In particular, colleges and universities have made a great number of explorations and innovations in discipline construction, investigation and research, research and training, and design convergence, providing certain human resources for textile non heritage businesses. Textile heritage as China

Two, textile heritage industry is gradually forming a chain of inheritance and promotion system. Non heritage inheritors and heritage groups, heritage conservation and research institutions, fashion design and brand operation, capital injection and park construction, social charity activities, industry exhibition and fashion week, etc., through various ways of transmission and integration of resources, gradually form a chain of textile heritage and diversity, and jointly promote the development of textile heritage industry. In particular, designer groups go deep into rural fields to acquire a large number of non heritage elements, and strive to integrate traditional techniques with modern fashion design. The textile heritage has been closely integrated with poverty alleviation, expansion of employment and Rural Revitalization in many minority areas, and has played an active role in bringing benefits and dignity to tens of thousands of left behind women and craftsmen. People's awareness of textile non heritage products has also been improved. Through exhibitions, fashion releases, on-site experiences, business promotion, network sales, etc., on many marketing platforms, they enjoy both spiritual enjoyment and material taste.

Three, China Textile Federation has made remarkable progress in its work. As an important category of non heritage and a national conference organized by industry organizations, the annual non Heritage Convention has become an important platform for displaying the achievements of textile heritage development and exchanging ideas. The voice issued by the conference has the function of weathervane, and the Promotion Ambassador has become the spokesman and leader of the textile Heritage industry. The conference has become a brand activity in the industry. China International Fashion Week and "Splendid China" fashion show has become the commanding height of the integration and development of textile traditional crafts and modern fashion design. In Beijing, Shanghai, Dalian, Chaozhou and other places to hold all kinds of textile heritage exhibition, promote the marketization process of traditional craft products and move towards contemporary life, and have received high attention and praise from inside and outside the industry. Paying attention to field investigation of textile intangible heritage, went to Tibet, Yunnan, Guizhou, Hunan, Chongqing, Inner Mongolia and other places, focusing on ethnic minority areas, finding out the survival and development of grass-roots groups, looking for the focus of the work of non heritage industry, and making suggestions for the relevant government departments to revitalize the traditional technology. To compile and publish the "development report on China's textile intangible cultural heritage", which contains the historical development process of the textile industry's intangible heritage and the imprint of the Sino Textile Federation's intangible heritage. Actively coordinating the academic research work of Chaoxiu traditional craft, organizing the domestic authoritative experts to compile the exclusive monograph of Chao embroidery history, culture and techniques, which will be officially published by the China Textile publishing house, providing a template for studying other textile traditional skills.

While affirming the achievements, we should see that there are still many problems that need to be explored and solved. 主要有：如何结合行业实际更加有效推动纺织非遗事业实现创造性转化、创新性发展，科学而合理地解决“守”与“变”的辩证关系；纺织传统工艺的基础性研究尚有许多空白需要填补，客观系统研究、挖掘纺织非遗的本真性和现代传承发展的文化与经济价值；非遗传统工艺融入现代服饰、家居用品、文化旅游、艺术创造等系列化产品设计开发有待进一步拓展；如何建立纺织非遗传承链条中各相关方的合作和经济协调机制，进而打通并稳定可持续运行这个链条需要深入探讨和实践；非遗设计展示多而消费少，非遗国际文化交流多而贸易少，非遗纺织类产品的市场渠道还不畅通，消费动力显得不足；纺织非遗保护传承事业发展不平衡，尚未形成东西部地区资源禀赋不同而应实现互补性发展的格局。

The above problems are the main problems in the development of textile non genetic businesses, some of which are common problems similar to those of other industries. Of course, we can not be confused or frustrated because of these problems or problems. We must firmly develop the confidence of the textile heritage industry and continue to move forward to meet the new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage.

Two, seize development opportunities.

Opening up a new era of inheritance and development of textile Heritage

Taking a comprehensive look at the overall situation of the state and industry, our textile heritage industry is at many important historical nodes, facing many important development opportunities and the starting point of our work. In the concrete analysis, we should pay attention to the following four aspects:

First, China's economic and social development has entered a new era, with high emphasis on cultural self-confidence, the promotion of fine traditional culture and the expectation of a better life for the people. This should be the fundamental purpose and strategic pursuit of developing the textile heritage industry. Textile intangible cultural heritage should become a dazzling civilization flower of China's non HERITAGE family. In the process of entering the new era, China will keep pace with the times to play the role of beautifying life, decorating the world and pursuing fashion. It will build up the traditional culture of the root system, highlight the wisdom and wisdom of modern life, and provide the material carrier and spiritual home for the people's good wishes.

Second, China's textile industry has become a world influential industry. Recently, Zhou Ji, the former dean of the Chinese Academy of engineering, introduced the "China industrial chain safety assessment report" by the Chinese Academy of engineering. It has been mentioned that after the international comparative analysis, the five major industries of textile and communications equipment, advanced rail transit, transmission and transformation equipment and household electrical appliances are rated as the world's leading industries, which is basically consistent with the level of development reached by our industry. Entering the new era, we are no longer the so-called traditional labor-intensive industries. "Technology, fashion and green" have become the new positioning of the textile industry. The three complement each other and become one. The fashion should be integrated with traditional culture and traditional technology to have "foundation" and "soul". The leading position of the world is not just manufacturing lead, culture should also be recognized by the world. Textile Heritage enterprises should make a special contribution to this mission.

Third, the industrial resources and social support system for the inheritance and development of textile heritage has begun to take shape. Only by unifying the objectives of opening and entering the new era, coordinating the operation system and the economic mechanism, and building up a platform for interdependence and co promotion, will the textile intangible heritage industry be able to work with the state, society and textile industry, and develop with the strong textile industry, so as to help maintain the leading position in the world, the textile intangible heritage industry will be more dazzling.

Fourth, with the full completion of a moderately prosperous society, people's cultural consumption will increase day by day. With the enhancement of cultural self-confidence and the aesthetic and functional orientation of heritage products, modern products will become an important source of consumption trends. Textile non heritage consumer goods are closely related to people's daily life. There are many categories, wide distribution and large demand. The traditional technology is easy to combine with modern fashion design, and the market space may expand in the fields of dress, home, tourism, literature and art, and so on. The consumption from spiritual and material level will increasingly become the main driving force for the development of textile intangible heritage. Culture must adhere to the creative transformation and innovative development "is the guiding principle of developing the textile legacy industry in the new era. In the good atmosphere that the State advocates the promotion of traditional Chinese culture and revitalization of traditional technology, governments at all levels and all walks of life attach great importance to the protection and inheritance of intangible cultural heritage, the textile industry must further respond positively to the call of the state and the society, cooperate with relevant agencies under the guidance and policy support of the competent government departments, and strive to promote the close integration of textile heritage in the traditional culture and the real production and life. In order to carry out the dream of" technology, fashion and green "as a textile power and consolidate the leading position of the world's leading industry, we should further deepen the intangible heritage work and make efforts to open up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage. The development opportunities described above provide an important prerequisite for opening up the new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage, and implementing the" Nineteen great reports "put forward by the party to carry forward the fine traditions of the Chinese nation.

As a coordinating service institution for non heritage businesses, China Federation of textile industry will, on the basis of summing up its past practice and practice, give full play to its resources and platform advantages, and actively explore effective ways to open up a new era of inheritance and development of textile heritage.

First, enhance the consciousness, practicality and foresight of carrying out the concept of "creative transformation and innovative development". The inheritance and development of textile heritage is included in the compilation of the "14th Five-Year plan" of the industry. Combined with the macro policies of the national non heritage work and the general requirements for the development of the industry, the goal direction and task measures for the development of the industry are proposed.

Second, actively cooperate with the cultural departments, research institutes and institutions of higher learning to protect and protect traditional textile heritage technology, and give full play to the resources integration advantages of industries and enterprises, and strive to build the heritage chain, economic mechanism and market operation system of the integration development of traditional textile technology and fashion design, modern technology, production and processing, and channel construction, so as to achieve the docking between the intangible resources of the source and the terminal's life and consumption, so as to truly "see people, see things and see life", and realize the living inheritance of textile production and production.

Third, give full play to the advantages of the industry expo and fashion week platform, lead the fashion trend of combining intangible heritage with modern life, encourage designers and brand enterprises to take traditional culture and technology as their responsibility and mission, strive to create integrated non heritage elements and produce, flow, and consume textile legacy products, satisfy people's spiritual and material needs for traditional culture, and promote the unity of cultural value and economic value of textile intangible cultural heritage.

Fourth, in view of the fact that most of our textile heritage resources are distributed in ethnic minority areas, the Western Ethnic provinces are more centralized and need more help and resource input. Although some non-governmental organizations, public welfare foundations and entrepreneurs with good morals and kindness have done a lot of work, we, as a national industry organization, should attach great importance to and actively promote the protection and inheritance of the textile heritage of ethnic minorities, and help to accurately help the poor and revitalize the countryside so as to fully demonstrate the social responsibility and public spirit of the textile heritage industry.

Fifth, promote the cross-border integration of textile related intangible cultural heritage and cultural tourism, arts and crafts, home decoration, folk wedding, film and TV shows and other related industries and cultural and creative enterprises. With the help of "one belt and one road" construction and foreign cultural and economic and trade exchanges, we will spread the history and glory of the Chinese textile heritage industry, enhance the brand awareness in the world, build and consolidate the protection and inheritance system of traditional Chinese culture and traditional crafts, tell the story of textile, spread the wind and color of textile, and make contributions to the textile industry.

Comrades and friends, let us, in line with the strategic deployment of the party and the state to carry forward the fine traditional culture of the Chinese nation and revitalize the traditional technology, closely combine the overall requirements of the development of the textile industry, advance with the times, push forward, seek truth and pragmatism, and work together to make unremitting efforts to open up the new era of textile heritage.