Research On The Color Of Xiangyunsha: The Noble And Elegant Color Of Xiangyunsha Is The Model Of Chinese Traditional Color Culture

　　 gambiered Guangdong gauze The noble and elegant color is the model of Chinese traditional color culture. Its basic colors "black" and "yellow" are both important colors in the traditional Chinese five color system, and their unique colors are loved and pursued in the traditional Chinese aesthetic view. The beauty of its color melts the traditional Chinese philosophy, and its color culture is inherited from the traditional Chinese culture.

Key words: xiangyunsha color, color, traditional culture

　　Abstract: The elegant color of Gambiered Guangdong Silk is a good expression of China traditional color culture. Its basic colors which include “black” and “yellow” are the important colors among the China traditional five colors system. Its special luster is one of the favorite of China traditional aesthetic standards. Its color is in harmony with Chinese traditional philosophy. Its color culture is belong to Chinese traditional culture.

　　Key words: Gambiered Guangdong Silk, color, luster, tradition, culture.

As a treasure house of Chinese traditional culture and art treasure , xiangyunsha reappears in public view. Researchers and designers love xiangyunsha so much, which is inseparable from the color features of the beauty of traditional Chinese culture. In today's rich color, xiangyunsha with its simple and implicit, quiet and noble“ Chinese style ”The color image has entered the modern people's life, causing us to explore the beauty of its color.

"Xiangyun yarn", also known as rangsha, is a kind of pure natural fabric made by hand with the ancient method of "sun drying and dyeing and finishing technology" in Lingnan area. The process has a history of nearly 100 years, mainly including the following processes: preparation of Dioscorea cirrhosa dyeing solution, dip dyeing, insolation, mud coating, mud washing and sun drying. In 2008, the dyeing and finishing process of sun dried yam was selected into the second batch of national intangible cultural heritage list approved by the Ministry of culture of the people's Republic of China with the approval of the State Council. Its main raw material is Dioscorea cirrhosa (also produced in Guangdong, Guangxi, Guizhou, Yunnan, etc.) in the local mountainous area, while the unique raw material is the natural river bottom sludge produced in the unique natural environment of Nanhai, Shunde, Sanshui, etc., which is rich in iron and other substances, and the color of black is the best. People prefer the name "xiangyunsha" to the former "rangsha" and "rangsha". Li Bai has a poem: "fragrant clouds start from the mountains, and flowers and rain come from the sky." Xiangyunsha is worthy of its poetic reputation. It spreads with comfortable wearing performance and carries forward with the color of Chinese traditional beauty. This article from the color, color, color, meaning four aspects to explore the xiangyunsha carries the beauty of color of Chinese culture.

　　 1. The color of xiangyunsha

"Shuo Wen Jie Zi" has: "color, facial Qi also", that is, the original meaning of "color" refers to the face color, color. Today, "color" refers to a single independent local color. In Chinese culture, "color" has been given more philosophical meaning, forming a unique Chinese color culture.

The main colors of traditional Xiangyun yarn are "black" and "yellow". The reason why the quotation marks are added here is that during the dyeing process, due to different batches of plant dyes, environment, temperature and humidity and other factors, the color of each batch of dyed cloth will be large or small, and the phenomenon of multi-color of one cloth will also appear. On one side, it will present Brown "yellow" color with different depth, yellow or red color On the other side, there will be a brown "black" color with yellow or red color (Fig. 1 and 2). A piece of silk after ancient dyeing presents two different colors on both sides, which itself is a magic mark of ancient civilization.

　 Fig. 1 front and back of Gambia silk

　　 Fig. 2 front and back of Gambia yarn

"Yellow" color can also be called the basic color of Xiangyun yarn, which is made of vegetable dye "Dioscorea cirrhosa". After repeated dip dyeing and exposure to the sun, the raw silk is stretched and leveled on the turf, and then dried. The sun is fully and evenly exposed to make the dye liquor transpiration upward, forming a dark brown yellow color on both sides of the Xiangyun yarn (Fig. 3). At this time, the "yellow" color on both sides of the Xiangyun yarn has been initially dyed.

　 Fig. 3 green silk before mud coating

River mud is the key to the formation of "black" color on the front of Xiangyun yarn. The quality of river mud also determines whether there will be magical color change on the front of Xiangyun yarn, One side is "yellow" muslin fabric.

　　 Figure 4 a photo of a Guangdong woman in traditional dress of xiangyunsha sold by Beijing Huachen Auction Co., Ltd. in 2011

Xiangyun gauze mostly adopts glossy black as the front, and black and bright is the beauty (Fig. 4). This is related to the traditional color concept of "advocating black" in China. Black is one of the "five positive colors" in the traditional Chinese color system, which refers to green, red, yellow, white and black. In Chinese culture, the concept of color is combined with philosophy, and black, like other positive colors, is endowed with rich philosophical significance. Black corresponds to the "North" in the five directions, the "winter" in the five seasons, the "salty" in the five flavors, the "feather" in the five tones, and the "water" in the five elements. Different dynasties worshipped different colors. Qin Dynasty, Northern Wei Dynasty and other dynasties had the aesthetic view of worshiping black and respecting black. Black gives people in traditional Chinese culture a sense of legitimacy and dignity both visually and mentally. So far, the Miao, Li, Lahu and other ethnic minorities have also reflected the black color concept in the clothing culture. In modern society, there are also formal occasions to wear black dress as a solemn and polite performance. Therefore, influenced by the traditional Chinese color concept, the oily and noble black side of Xiangyun yarn is often used as a positive side and is widely loved by people.

In ancient times, the yellow color on the reverse side of Xiangyun gauze can be called "Liuhuang" or "tiaohuang". It is one of the five colors in the traditional Chinese color system, namely cyan, red, ethereal, purple and Liuhuang. It is also one of the most common colors in China since ancient times. Flow is partial, flow yellow is deviated from yellow, yellow with black, yellow with red color. Yellow and black is also known as the goblet, and the reddish yellow is also known as the goblet. The colors of dark topaz, yellow bamboo mat and objects made of boxwood are all recorded as flowing yellow.

Both sides of Xiangyun gauze have a prominent position in the traditional Chinese five color system. The front side is one of the five positive colors, and the reverse side is one of the five intermediate colors. Later developed products are based on "black" and "yellow" to build the overall color system of Xiangyun yarn. The color style is clear, so that people can distinguish Xiangyun yarn and feel the strong "Chinese style" color.

　 2. The "lustre" of xiangyunsha

"Color" is usually understood as the color effect of color and luster. In China's long history, people's understanding and admiration of "Ze" can be traced back to a long time. All four kinds of world-famous artifacts jade, lacquer, silk and porcelain are full of luster, which shows the love and pursuit of luster in the traditional Chinese aesthetics. The word "Ze" is best from the word "water". Laozi once pointed out that the sage should be "light but not shining", that is, bright but not dazzling. The original meaning is to describe people's moral character. Here we can understand that the pursuit of "Ze" in the traditional Chinese aesthetic view is the most appropriate.

Another feature of Xiangyun yarn is that it has its unique color and color in the traditional handicraft textiles. The natural and unique dyeing process of Xiangyun yarn gives it a color different from other silk fabrics. What's amazing is that not only are the colors of the front and back sides different, but also the color performance of both sides is quite different. After the reaction of Dioscorea cirrhosa dyestuff with river mud, a black dye layer with a certain thickness and strong covering power was formed. It had the luster of coal, which was light but not brilliant, expensive and elegant. On the contrary, the color of Dioscorea cirrhosa is implicit and hazy, just like the frost hanging on grapes. From the physical point of view, gloss generally refers to the reflective characteristics of the surface of the object, which depends on the specular reflection ability of the surface. The black dye layer on the front of the Xiangyun yarn has superior reflective characteristics, which increases the specular reflection ability of the silk fabric to light. Different fabric texture will interact with black dye layer to form different luster performance, such as plain weave fabric and leno weave fabric.

The weaves of Rangoon are smooth and dense, and the luster after dyeing is greasy and full (Fig. 1). However, the weave density of the hyacinth yarn is low, and the yarn holes are clear. After dyeing, the luster reflected by the fabric surface will be darker, more subtle and softer than that of the hyacinth silk, and can fully show the layered texture of the hyacinth yarn (Fig. 2). Black is the deepest and stable color, and sometimes it can bring people a dull color feeling. However, the black with luster of Xiangyun yarn is noble and vivid. The wearer shows its changing color effect in every move. The famous lady Song Qingling loved the style and color of xiangyunsha, and often wore well-made xiangyunsha costumes (Fig. 5). The "light but not the brilliance" of xiangyunsha is just the reflection of Ms. song's noble and elegant temperament and character.

The charming color on both sides of Xiangyun gauze makes the sense of Xiangyun gauze warm and thick, and it is really light and thin, which adds a sense of hierarchy to the color of the fabric. It is not difficult to understand the attraction of Xiangyun gauze to ancient and modern people at home and abroad by combining with the love and pursuit of color in traditional Chinese aesthetic view.

　 Fig. 5 ms. Song Qingling is wearing a cheongsam made of xiangyunsha fabric

　 3. The color of xiangyunsha

Kong's "justice" quoted Zheng Xuanyun: "the nature is the color, and the practice is the color." Color refers to color and color. Therefore, "color" is a gorgeous effect produced by the interaction and interaction between color and color, color and color after applying multicolor. "Kao Gong Ji" has "green and red as the text, red and white as the chapter, white and black as the Fu, black and green as the Fu, five kinds of equipment as embroidery." It can be seen that in the traditional Chinese concept of color, color is the basis of color, and color is the expression of color.

　 Figure 6 part of Chengyun embroidery unearthed from tomb No.1 of Mawangdui, Changsha (Western Han Dynasty) collected by Hunan Provincial Museum

Fig. 7 the painting of emperors in different dynasties by Yan Liben

The "color" of xiangyunsha is the color of interaction and interaction between "black" and "yellow". Among them, "black" and "yellow" also have rich changes. Due to the characteristics of plant dyeing, wearing and washing, the color of Xiangyun yarn will be uneven in color, the effect of depth change, and sometimes black and yellow will penetrate each other, which gives the rich color levels and composition of Xiangyun yarn. The "black" color of Xiangyun yarn changes between "Xuan" (black with red) and "lathy" (with yellow in black) in traditional Chinese color system. The color of "yellow" circulates between "Bi" (yellow with black) and "Mi" (red with yellow) in traditional Chinese color system. This kind of "black and yellow color" is very common in Chinese traditional color system and has existed since ancient times. For example, the Chengyun embroidery unearthed from tomb No. 1 of Mawangdui in Changsha (Fig. 6) is a typical color matching and pattern of the Western Han Dynasty. It is composed of black, yellow, black, red and other colors. The color is harmonious and harmonious, and it is warm and rich.

This kind of "color" also has a high status in the traditional color system of China. Since the Zhou Dynasty, China has stipulated that the emperor's crown dress is Xuanyi (Fig. 7), which is still in use in the Ming Dynasty. It is the embodiment of the pursuit of "making things like morality" in China's color culture. The pursuit of philosophy is reflected by the color of clothing. In the book of changes, it is said that "the sky is dark and the earth is yellow". "Xuan", as if the sky, far unpredictable. "Yellow", the color of soil, is the basis of survival. Tianxuan is looking up at the height of heaven, and Rehmannia is praising the depth of the earth. Since ancient times, the color of black and yellow has been endowed with the philosophical significance of the way of heaven and earth and the change of yin and Yang in Chinese color concept, which outlines the "Chinese style" color image of xiangyunsha. It is the people's subtle and deep-rooted sense of identity to the traditional culture that makes the simple color composition of xiangyunsha bring us the sense of orthodox nobility and simple tradition, as well as the reasons for the sense of national identity and cultural massiness.

In the late 1990s, handicraftsmen tried to use colored silk fabric instead of the original one to dye and finish Xiangyun yarn, adding "color" to Xiangyun gauze. On the basis of maintaining the traditional black and yellow color, the color was enriched. There were two categories of monochromatic and printed Xiangyun yarn.

　 Figure 8 single color Xiangyun yarn

Figure 9 front and back of turtle crack monochrome gauze

Figure 10 front and back of jacquard monochrome gauze

One side is black and the other side is color. With monochrome colored silk as raw silk, dyed by Xiangyun yarn dyeing process, the original gorgeous color is covered with a layer of black and yellow color, the lightness and purity are reduced, the color transition to brown yellow, become dignified and introverted, and become a fabric with color on one side and oily black on the other side (Fig. 8). Combined with modern water washing technology, it can also highlight the weaving texture, or show the effect of turtle cracks after wearing and washing for a long time. The black dye layer will fall off with the cracks to different degrees, forming a color level like a wax dyed turtle crack on the surface of the fabric. The positive and negative colors interact, and there is black in the color and color in the black, showing a very hierarchical color feature The color of the fabric shows the traces of years of carving (Fig. 9). Single color jacquard yarn can also be made into single color jacquard gauze and other types of fabrics with uniform color and rich colors (FIG. 10).

　 Fig. 11 printed cloud yarn

Figure 12 local, front and back of printed cloud yarn

The printed muslin is made of color printed grey silk. After the process of Xiangyun yarn dyeing, the brightness, purity and hue of the printing color of the blank silk have been changed as well as that of the single color Xiangyun yarn. The clear and independent black and yellow basic tones of the gauze are covered, and the color printing of one side is oily black and the other side is brownish yellow (FIG. 11). The color style is implicit and deep, the freehand brushwork is hazy, and most of them are printed with Chinese painting materials. The finished product is just like the ancient Silk landscape painting with colors (Fig. 12), which forms a very unique and elegant effect and is covered with a strong Chinese traditional culture atmosphere. It has its own system and unique style.

With the revival of Chinese traditional color concept, xiangyunsha gradually stays in the psychology of people who love Chinese traditional culture.

　 4. The meaning of xiangyunsha

The color of xiangyunsha embodies the traditional Chinese cultural thoughts from the following aspects, which is its "meaning".

The color culture of xiangyunsha shows the concept of the unity of heaven and man in Chinese traditional culture. "The unity of man and nature" is an important basic concept in Chinese Confucianism. Its core is that personnel should conform to the laws of nature and achieve the harmonious unity of man and nature. In the process of Xiangyun yarn dyeing, we skillfully use the materials given by nature to shape the "black and yellow color" which occupies an important position in the traditional Chinese color system. After dyeing, the used materials can return to the nature without pollution, which not only conforms to the natural law, but also conforms to the traditional Chinese color concept. It can be said that it is a wonderful understanding of nature, coincidence, and the relationship between man and nature has been obtained The wonderful color expression shows the ideal pursued by Chinese traditional philosophy - "the unity of man and nature".

Xiangyunsha color culture interprets the spirit of Chinese traditional handicraft culture. "Kao Gong Ji" says that "all works are made by sages". It can be seen that the craftsmen of creation are all "saints" and pursue perfection and perfection all their lives. From the ingenious combination of Dioscorea cirrhosa and river mud materials, to basking in the most abundant sunlight in July and August, and then to "spreading fog" in the grassland after sunset in the evening, the color shaping process of xiangyunsha embodies the cultural spirit of skillful pursuit of Chinese traditional handicrafts. In the process of making with aesthetic feeling and striving for perfection, xiangyunsha has been endowed with humanistic attributes. Its production and use is a complex of love and respect for Chinese traditional culture and handicrafts.

The development of xiangyunsha color culture is the embodiment of Chinese national cultural consciousness. People love the traditional culture of the motherland, and spontaneously inherit and carry forward the color culture of Xiangyun yarn. While enriching the color and category of Xiangyun yarn, they fully protect the "dyeing and finishing technology of Xiangyun yarn", maintain the superior wearability of plant dyes, and retain the unique traditional color style of Xiangyun yarn, and the ancient method which is on the verge of extinction has been inherited and developed. It can be said that the development of xiangyunsha color culture is the spontaneous awakening and reform of folk arts and crafts. It is not initiated by artists or academic experts, but produced by the continuous practice and summary of grassroots producers and users in the face of rapid social changes under the cultural consciousness, which is the embodiment of the cultural consciousness of the Chinese nation.

　　 Conclusion:

No matter how the popular colors of the modern world change, the fragrant cloud gauze with the beauty of Chinese traditional color is there, quietly exuding the charm of ancient Chinese civilization. It is people's thinking and returning to the traditional culture after abundant social material desire. Xiangyunsha has become the traditional "ancient color" that really enters into modern people's life. It is deep and implicit, with beautiful meaning and fragrance. It is the reflection of the essence of Chinese traditional culture and the fruit of Chinese traditional color system.