Chinese Fiber Leads Textile Material Innovation

The fashion trend of textile and clothing fashion products has started from the upstream fiber end. During the yarnexpo autumn / winter yarn show in 2021, the textile materials innovation forum, a new vision of fiber, held three theme forums, including China's fiber fashion trend, green and sustainable fiber and domestic Lyocell fiber.

Wang Huaping, Professor of Donghua University, deeply interpreted the trend of Chinese fiber in 2021 / 2022; Sun Yanlin, chief engineer of Tongkun group, introduced the process route and research and development of thermal wet comfort polyester fiber; Guo Yajun from Zhejiang Jiaren new materials Co., Ltd. introduced the recycling DMT refining technology and high value products of waste textiles; Zheng Yulei, R & D director of Changle Hengshen synthetic fiber technology Co., Ltd., introduced the research and development of high strength polyamide 6 fiber; Chen zhongbi, general manager of Anhui Fengyuan bio Fiber Co., Ltd., introduced the development and application of PLA fiber under the strategy of "carbon neutralization"; Yao maobo, vice president of Qingdao Baicao new materials Co., Ltd., introduced the broad application prospect of big bio fiber.

Fiber trend

High quality development of enabling industry

China's fiber trend was born 10 years ago and has been continuously released for 10 years. Wang Huaping mainly summarized the outstanding achievements in the research of fiber popular trend in the past 10 years.

Wang Huaping said that in the past 10 years, China's fiber trend has continued to show the world the technical strength of China's fiber and shape the Chinese fiber brand; Enabling the high-quality development of chemical fiber industry points out the direction for the whole textile industry to promote "supply side structural reform", implement "three products" strategy, and rely on soft power to drive transformation and upgrading; It is committed to opening up the textile industry chain, promoting the deep integration of the whole fiber industry chain, and accelerating the formation of a new development pattern of domestic and international double cycles promoting each other.

According to reports, in the past 10 years, China's fiber trend has released more than 200 kinds of fiber products, and more than 400 participating enterprises have participated. 90% of the enterprises believe that the release of China's fiber trend will play a positive role in promoting the selected enterprises to the downstream.

In the past 10 years, fiber technology and fashion have been complementary. The theme of China's fiber fashion trends not only conforms to the market reality, but also leads the fashion trend. Taking the 2013 / 2014 "ecological environment protection, green and low carbon" as an example, this theme has become a fashion hot spot. In the past 10 years, the competitiveness of a number of chemical fiber enterprises has been continuously improved, the innovation ability has been significantly enhanced, and the profit margin has been significantly improved. For example, the average profit margin of the popular fiber released in 2021 / 2022 is 14.2%, which is 3.46 times of the industry average.

Wang Huaping introduced that in the past 10 years, China's fiber products have gradually transformed to medium and high-end products, and some products have reached the international leading level, such as melt direct spinning fine denier fiber. Over the past 10 years, we have continuously demonstrated the strength of Chinese fiber brands to the world, including green manufacturing, intelligent manufacturing, cleaner production standards, etc., as well as the physical and chemical properties, appearance indicators, social responsibility, quality and safety certification, etc. In many fields, Chinese fiber has become a global leader, representing the highest level in the world, such as functional fiber, regenerated fiber and bio based fiber.

From the perspective of form, it has created a platform for the dissemination and promotion of fiber popular trends, and the release forms have been constantly enriched, from single to diversified, from plane to three-dimensional, from static to dynamic, from offline to online; Release channels continue to expand, for example, the current use of Online + offline + small programs. During the exhibition in March this year, the total number of exhibits on the small program reached 974, the total demand reached 153, and the total number of page visits was 26892.

In particular, during the epidemic period, the event attracted representatives of domestic fiber production enterprises, textile industry chain partners, fashion brand representatives, designers, teachers and students of textile and clothing colleges, as well as consumers. The total number of viewers on the whole network platform has reached 34 million, and the number of online viewers in the same period is as high as 700000.

Wang Huaping stressed that: "Ten years ago, we only dare to say that we are a big fiber country, but we dare not say that we are a fiber power. Why? Because the commanding heights of many enterprises have not yet been benchmarked with the international level. But now we can find that the overall style and image of Chinese fiber are really different. Our purpose of continuing to be a popular trend of Chinese fiber is to push the overall image of Chinese fiber to The vast number of consumers and terminal brands, so that consumers can use the best fiber, terminal brands can cooperate with the best fiber suppliers, and finally form a closed-loop system from fiber manufacturing to downstream brands, and then to consumers. "

Talking about the future development trend of fiber, Wang Huaping pointed out that it includes the whole process of efficient flexible preparation and professional application of high-quality multi-functional fiber, large-scale preparation technology and low-cost industrialization of high-end high-performance fiber, improvement of scale and process equipment level and product development of bio based chemical fiber, improvement of key technology of intelligent manufacturing and intelligent frontier product development technology, The sustainable development level of green low carbon fiber will be improved, and the construction of brand, talent, standard and certification system will be established.

Interpretation of heat and humidity comfort function

Process route of polyester fiber

At present, Tongkun group has an annual production and processing capacity of 10 million tons of crude oil processing equity, 4.2 million tons of PTA, 7.7 million tons of polymerization, 8.3 million tons of polyester filament, and 0.8 million tons of textured yarn. Its polyester filament includes six series of POY, DTY, FDY, ity, composite yarn and medium strength yarn, with more than 1000 varieties. Among them, POY, FDY and DTY are selected as national green design products. Its five characteristic series products include Luyuan silk, Shurou silk, Danyun silk, Xuancai silk and KANGYI silk.

Sun Yanlin mainly introduced the process route and research and development of thermal and moisture comfort functional fiber. According to reports, in 2017, Tongkun group participated in the national key R & D plan project issued by the Ministry of science and technology. Taking this opportunity, Tongkun group cooperated with five domestic textile characteristic colleges and universities such as Donghua University, as well as Ruyi group, jialingjie, sunshine group and other well-known downstream enterprises to develop a multi-point online melt addition direct spinning process route for functional hot wet filament.

The thermal and moisture comfort functional fiber selects the appropriate comonomer, breaks through the controllable polymerization technology of moisture conducting polyester, and improves the water conductivity of polyester material. The special spinneret with high regular cross-section and functional masterbatch addition technology are designed to optimize the spinning technology of moisture absorption and quick drying, moisture absorption cooling and moisture absorption heating fiber.

Sun Yanlin said: "after the small test, we verify the successful products in the small test, and carry out series development, change the content of cool and warm feeling, as well as fiber cross-section design, and optimize the back design, and then promote engineering."

The trial production products of this series of fibers include: cool feeling fiber (jade powder), which adopts three kinds of spinneret holes: round hole, cross hole and caterpillar; And the warm fiber (coffee carbon) adopts three kinds of spinneret holes: round hole, hollow hole and caterpillar. Among them, the core technology of moisture absorption and cool filament fiber is good air permeability and moisture conduction structure, and high stability of cool fiber preparation; The core technology of hygroscopic heating filament fiber is to prevent the body from emitting heat and emit infrared light after heat absorption.

It is reported that the different content of functional masterbatch will affect the spinnability and performance of the product. In terms of the performance index and spinnability of the cool fiber, when the master batch content is 5% (the effective content of jade powder is 1%), the fiber can show better cooling effect. At the same time, the cross section fiber has the best air permeability and moisture transfer effect.

In the aspect of hygroscopic heating filament fiber, coffee carbon and pet were blended, twin-screw melt extrusion, cooling and pelleting were used to obtain heating functional masterbatch. The POY section of the heating fiber is regular, and the hollow section of the hollow fiber is very obvious. Hollow section is used to keep the air inside and keep warm. In the process of trial production, with the increase of masterbatch proportion, the spinning component pressure decreased significantly, and the elongation gradually became longer. During the spinning process, the floating silk was more serious than the cool sensitive fiber. When the addition of coffee carbon masterbatch was less than 7%, the POY breaking strength did not change significantly; When the content of POY reaches 9%, the fracture strength of POY decreases obviously. The heat preservation effect of hollow section fiber is the best, the hollow of hollow section is almost disappeared, but it still has obvious fluffy feeling. The far-infrared emissivity of the fiber reaches 0.89, and the far-infrared radiation temperature energy increases by 2.1 ℃.

How to engineer it? Sun Yanlin said: "the ultimate goal is to develop melt direct spinning products, to achieve precise product design, quality control, cost control, customer precise docking. Due to the large scale of melt direct spinning, intelligent manufacturing has become an inevitable direction for the development of functional polyester chemical fiber industry."

High value recycled polyester

Broad market prospects

Zhejiang Jiaren New Material Co., Ltd. uses waste polyester materials such as waste clothes and scraps as raw materials to produce high-quality, multi-functional, traceable and recyclable polyester fiber. At present, the annual output of the recycled polyester is 30000 tons, and the second phase of the project with an annual output of 70000 tons of recycled polyester has been started. After the completion of the second phase project, the annual production capacity of recycled polyester will be increased to 100000 tons.

Guo Yajun said that China is a big textile producer, but the recycling rate of waste textiles is low, less than 15%, causing serious environmental pollution. It is urgent to improve the comprehensive utilization rate of waste textiles. China has issued relevant policies to support the recycling of waste textiles. Especially at present, improving the utilization rate of waste textiles in China can help China achieve the goal of "carbon peak, carbon neutralization".

According to relevant estimates, if 32 million tons of waste textiles can be recycled every year, 46.8 million tons of carbon dioxide emissions will be reduced, 260 million tons of crude oil will be saved, and 30.3 million mu of cultivated land will be reduced, and environmental pollution will be greatly reduced.

At present, a number of international famous brands such as Nike and Adidas have made plans to replace the original polyester with recycled polyester. It is estimated that by 2030, the market scale of recycled polyester will increase to 1 trillion yuan, and the market scale of recycled polyester will increase to more than 350 billion yuan.

Guo Yajun introduced that using chemical method to produce recycled polyester can realize closed-loop recovery, and the recycled products produced can be comparable to the original polyester. The company adopts alcoholysis transesterification method, which can realize high value recycling of waste textiles. The pretreatment of waste textiles is an important prerequisite for efficient alcoholysis, including sorting, feeding, crushing, drying and feeding. The key technology is the synthesis and purification of regenerated DMT. Alcoholysis transesterification is the only way to prepare high purity DMT in industrialization. With high purity DMT as raw material, high value regenerated products can be produced.

According to reports, Jiaren new materials company's high-value products include recycled antimony free polyester chips, recycled atmospheric pressure cationic polyester chips, series of recycled differential filament, and high-performance engineering plastics (PETG chips).

"Unlimited circulation and product traceability are the outstanding characteristics of the company's recycled products. The leading chemical recovery technology can realize the permanent closure and permanent circulation from clothes to clothes. Each fiber of our company has its own DNA, which can solve the customers' worries through testing and tracing," Guo Yajun said.

High strength nylon 6

Better meet personalized needs

Changle Hengshen synthetic fiber technology Co., Ltd. has formed a nylon 6 whole industry chain covering "cyclohexanone caprolactam polyamide nylon 6 spinning nylon 6 texturing warping weaving dyeing and finishing" and is a leading supplier of caprolactam, ammonium sulfate and cyclohexanone in the world.

Zheng Yulei focused on the company's high-strength nylon 6 related situation. "Why do we want to develop high-strength nylon 6? First, the needs of downstream customers are diverse, and conventional nylon 6 can not meet their needs; second, industrial and military fields have high requirements on the strength and wear resistance of nylon 6; third, the strength of conventional nylon 6 is not enough," he said.

What are the key points of preparing high strength nylon 6? Zheng Yulei introduced that in terms of chips, Hengshen prepared a unique polymerization formula and used two-stage polymerization and slicing multi-stage extraction technology to prepare high-strength nylon-6 chips with low oligomer content. In terms of spinning technology, Hengshen uses the spinning technology of high-efficiency cooling, multiple drawing, high-efficiency heat setting, long spinning range and slow cooling to ensure that the melt is cooled slowly after it is ejected from the spinneret to prevent the formation of skin core structure, so as to produce high-strength nylon fiber.

Taking Shenren FDY filament as an example, the fiber has high strength, good wear resistance, good moisture absorption, and good elasticity and elastic recovery of the fabric, including bright, semi dull and fully dull series. The strength covers 6.20cn/dtex ~ 8.62cn/dtex. The breaking strength of 20d / 06f FDY fiber is 8.45cn/dtex.

In terms of application, high-strength nylon-6 fiber can be used in riding apparel, parachute, shoe materials, outdoor tents and other civil fields, as well as military textiles such as camouflage clothing.

Bio based polylactic acid materials

It can be called "emission reduction" expert

Anhui Fengyuan bio Fiber Co., Ltd. mainly engaged in polylactic acid fiber and products. The company has built 4 downstream production lines of polylactic acid staple fiber of 5000 tons / year, polylactic acid filament of 1000 tons / year, cigarette tow of 200 tons / year, and Siro compact spinning line of 20000 spindles.

Chen zhongbi pointed out that "marine plastic pollution" has attracted great global attention. Many countries around the world have issued plastic ban / restriction orders to reduce the use of petroleum based materials and advocate the use of bio based materials. The carbon dioxide emission of biodegradable plastics is only about 25% of that of petroleum based plastics. The use of biodegradable materials can not only greatly reduce carbon emissions, but also effectively solve the problem of "white pollution". In addition, its raw materials are renewable and never exhausted.

At present, Fengyuan has mastered six core technologies, including the preparation, fermentation, extraction and purification of lactic acid bacteria, and the production of poly (lactic acid), environmental protection fiber and environmental protection plastics. Fengyuan also developed a non grain processing route to produce lactic acid with straw cellulose as raw material and then polymerize to produce polylactic acid, which achieved a breakthrough in the key technology of bioconversion of cellulose raw materials. At present, the annual production capacity of polylactic acid in Fengyuan is 50000 tons, and the production line with an annual output of 300000 tons is under construction.

In order to expand the application scope of polylactic acid materials in the textile field, Fengyuan has also developed polylactic acid knitted and woven fabrics, as well as related clothing, home furnishings, home furnishings, sanitary materials and other end products of polylactic acid, including scarves, windbreaker, bedding 4-piece sets, shirts, sportswear, pajamas, children's wear, jeans, curtains, etc.

According to reports, Fengyuan has also cooperated extensively with downstream enterprises to expand product applications, such as the development of "19% PLA + 81% nylon" polylactic acid windbreaker with Tebu, and the development of bed fabric blended with PLA fiber, cotton and Tencel with pleasant home textile.

Large bio fiber

Contains plant ingredients, the future is expected

Qingdao Baicao new materials Co., Ltd. is a biotechnology enterprise focusing on large biological health materials. The company combines textile technology with biotechnology, endows the original plant function based on the advantages of traditional fiber characteristics, integrates industrial advantages and creates fiber composite characteristics. According to the characteristics of the products, supercritical, water extraction, alcohol extraction and other technologies are selected to ensure the excellent characteristics of active molecules.

According to Yao maobo, the disciplines involved in large bio fibers include materials science, life science, molecular biology, biochemistry, etc. The company's products take nature as the inspiration source, take the natural plant as the material, realized the chemical composition zero addition. "All kinds of plants in nature have different active functions. We extract them and apply them to fibers to form large biomaterials."

According to reports, the company's large biological fiber contains extracts of tea, wormwood, Apocynum, lavender, isatis root and so on. The key technologies for the preparation of large biological fibers include extraction of bioactive molecules and preparation and fusion of active molecular nests. The fiber preparation process includes extraction, coating, spinning, implantation and grafting.

Thanks to the product characteristics and excellent biological characteristics, large bio fiber can be used in fashion, non-woven, home textile, underwear and other fields, and its application prospect is very broad.

"At present, consumers are increasingly pursuing high-quality life. Large biological fibers and products have the characteristics of health, comfort, antibacterial and bacteriostasis, which will bring consumers a more secure and comfortable consumption experience," Yao said.