K è silk, also known as "carved silk". It is named because the "gap" caused by shuttle changing between colored weft and colored weft is like that carved by a knife. Since the Song and Yuan Dynasties, Kesi has always been a royal fabric. Because of its extremely complex process and strong artistic appeal, it is famous for "one inch of Kesi and one inch of gold".
"Intangible Cultural Heritage Kesi"
"Use shuttle as pen and silk as painting"
Kesi, also known as "carved silk", is the essence of traditional Chinese silk art. It is the most traditional way to pick up warp and show weft in Chinese silk weaving industry, and is very appreciative of decorative silk fabrics.
Kesi was popular in the Sui and Tang dynasties, It flourished in the Song Dynasty, Song people pursue spiritual life, On the basis of Kesi, Combined with calligraphy and painting, It created a new fashion of weaving painting scrolls with Kesi technology.
Kesi has both artistic and technological values. When weaving, the screen is presented by crossing the colored lines on the vertical silk.
One latitude line does not have to cross all the longitude lines, that is, "through the longitude and through the latitude", so under the same latitude, the color is more diverse, especially suitable for making calligraphy and painting works.
In general, there are 16 processes for the production of silk tapestries, and colored weft and weft yarns are used Up to 6000 colors. However, the color transformation is extremely complicated. Every transition color is constantly changing the small color shuttle. The changes that can be obtained in a single stroke of painting will be decomposed into countless color blocks in the silk.
Zhu Kerou of the Southern Song Dynasty "The Painting of Milk Duck in Lotus Pond with Kesi"
A skilled worker can only weave a few inches of silk a day. Sometimes it takes months or even more than a year to complete a work.
Kesi must be woven by hand. It is also an intangible cultural heritage. Compared with some cloud brocade and Song brocade that can be replaced by machines, the silk weaving process is extremely meticulous. If there is a slight difference, it needs to be dismantled and rebuilt.
The details of the tapestry "Green Feather and Autumn Lotus" under the magnifying glass
Kesi Wagtail Red Polygonum
"Song Shenzi Fanhuaniao" Kesi
Song Dynasty Carving Silk Peacock Painting
Flower Collection of Kesi Emperor Qianlong's Imperial Poems
Qing Dynasty Qianlong Kesi Royal Ink Cloud Room Recorder
"Intangible cultural heritage fashion goes out of the circle"
A new generation of Chinese designers also began to use Chinese intangible cultural heritage technology to collide with modern life aesthetics, inspiring new Chinese aesthetic styles.
The legend of Gaiya constantly gets inspiration and creativity from Chinese traditional culture and clothing. It not only fully interprets many oriental intangible cultural heritage crafts such as Kesi, Suzhou embroidery, feather painting, but also focuses on the fashion expression of Chinese traditional culture and tells ancient stories in fashion language.
In order to make the clothes elegant and flexible, Gaia chose the most advanced Kesi, which is more difficult to sew on such a thin fabric.
The ancient out of print silk carvings are used to draw inspiration from Dunhuang colors and mural patterns. One inch of silk carvings must have 100000 pieces broken at the second time. The time is long and the skill is high. Integrating the multiple processes of ancient cloth, from yarn weaving, color drawing, tapestry, plate embroidery, gold hooking and other embroidery techniques and details, it seems to uncover the ancient veil and restore the beauty of Dunhuang fairies.
These fairy tales are never far away. They will be displayed in the show. Light tulle will be used to carry the heavy history, innovative embroidery will be used to tell the ancient legends, and ingenious design will be used to convey the Chinese flavor.
The theme of LIQINGWEI's 23 spring and summer press conference is "When the Louvre meets the Forbidden City", where eastern and western arts blend and blossom, bursting out the profound interpretation of the brand this season.
In terms of fabric, typical oriental silk is mainly used, such as intangible cultural heritage Kesi, Song brocade, Xiangyun yarn, heavyweight silk and other raw materials, supplemented by plant dyes cotton and lace. Through embroidery, jacquard, hand painting, bead pieces, beading and other heavy processes, at the same time, lace representing the western aristocratic class and the "Pearl Age" culture are applied to this design, so that lace and Chinese embroidery can be skillfully combined, In addition, Chinese traditional handicrafts strongly express the unique beauty of silk.
In terms of color, gold, silver, pearl white, bronze, emerald green, French Burgundy red, etc. are the main colors. In terms of style, the combination of classical and modern, together with the new design and diversified styles of pearls, conveys a romantic and elegant style.
In the works of a new generation of designers, traditional weaving, lace and other heavy crafts will never decline, which is also a kind of beauty of inheritance, making the best use of everything, and carrying forward the environmental protection concept of sustainable design.
Living in the urban reinforced concrete jungle, our yearning for nature and return has nowhere to be placed. Tao Yuanming of the Eastern Jin Dynasty once sighed "The countryside will be deserted, and the beard will not return" in his "Returning Home", which was like a call, and also became our dream of retreat. To return is not to escape, but to start again after recuperating the mind; Return is not seclusion, but cognition and rebirth of life.
Hemu HEMU 2023SS Shanghai Fashion Week "Come Back", together with the famous artist Ms. Hu Junjun, presents a dialogue between art and fashion.
This season's Lotus HEMU will also break the previous calm color system, absorb the wonderful patterns and colors from Hu Junjun's paintings, and bring you a wonderful visual feast.
The main materials of clothing fabrics are silk, brocade, silk, silk, wool, cashmere and other natural fibers. In particular, it vigorously promotes and inherits the Kesi weaving process, dyeing and finishing process, and embroidery process, which are national intangible heritage.
Hemu pursues an oriental elegant lifestyle. Hemu, together with people who love Chinese traditional culture, has built a unique and highly oriental aesthetic world.