Design Element: Sleeve Style Recommended By The Designer

1. By length: sleeveless, shoulder belt sleeve, short sleeve, half sleeve, middle sleeve, long sleeve

2. According to the connection mode with the body: sleeve (sleeve), body sleeve

3. Number of sleeves: one, two and many

4. According to fit degree: loose sleeve, fit sleeve, general sleeve

Name of each part of sleeve

Relationship between sleeve height and sleeve fat

Fitted sleeve

Drawing of a fitted sleeve

Drawing of converting one sleeve into two sleeves

Drawing of Two Piece Sleeves by Point Point Method

Xiushan position

Sleeve pattern design

Sleeves are subject to various changes due to the influence of fashion style modeling. No matter what kind of modeling, it can be changed from the sleeve prototype. The following are various sleeve styles made of sleeve prototypes.

1. Petal sleeve with tight cuff

This style is a close fitting short sleeve with petal shaped decoration. The front and rear sleeves overlap each other, and generally no seam is required. The manufacturing steps are as follows:

① First draw a short sleeve with tight cuffs.

② According to the style requirements, draw two petal shaped sleeves at the front and back, the cuffs are curved, and the front and rear sleeves overlap each other.

③ The front and rear sleeves can be copied, and the front and rear sleeves can be connected so that there is no broken seam at the bottom of the sleeve.

④ Mark the matching number and warp direction number of the armhole suture.

　 2. Shoulder pad sleeve

This style is a sleeve with shoulder pad on the shoulder. Due to the shoulder pad, the shoulder slope needs to be changed. The size of the change depends on the thickness of the shoulder pad. The manufacturing steps are as follows:

① According to the thickness of the shoulder pad, change the shoulder slope of the front and rear pieces of the garment body. Draw a line from about 5cm below the shoulder point to the intersection of the collar and shoulder line.

② Cut the two lines, fix the neck side point to improve the cut pattern, the opening height is equal to the thickness of the shoulder pad, and smooth the armhole line after opening. This treatment is better than lifting the thickness of the shoulder pad directly from the shoulder point, which can keep the angle formed by the front and rear shoulder suture unchanged.

③ The sleeves are about 6cm down from the top of the armhole. Cut the pattern as shown in the figure and open it to both sides. The opening distance should be equal to the sum of the opening dimensions of the front and rear armholes, that is, the thickness of the two shoulder pads, so as to ensure that the curve length of the armhole and the armhole is equal when sewing.

④ Mark the matching number of armhole and armhole curve and the warp direction number of each garment piece.

3. Decorative flare sleeve

This style is to use a curve at the elbow to separate the sleeve into two parts. The sleeve above the elbow is straight, and the sleeve below the elbow is trumpet shaped. The drawing is as follows:

　　 4. Pleated sleeve (dart and tuck at sleeve hill)

Sleeves can be formed into various styles through crinkle processing. The crinkle can be designed at the sleeve cuff, sleeve hill or other parts.

This style is of ordinary short sleeves. The manufacturing steps are as follows:

① Draw a short sleeve with the sleeve prototype.

② According to the style requirements, only the upper part of the sleeve hill is shrunk, and other parts remain unchanged.

③ Draw a dividing line on the upper part of the sleeve hill, cut it and open it outwards. The size of the opening depends on the amount of sleeve hill folds. Use the curve to smooth the sleeve hill.

④ Mark the fold number, alignment number and longitude direction number.

If three provinces are made at Xiushan, their shapes are similar to those in the above figure. When making, cut and open the dart according to the position of the seam dart, and make the dart at the open position. The end point of the dart can be placed on the sleeve hill curve of the original sleeve.

　 5. Lantern sleeve

The lantern sleeve, also known as bubble sleeve, is a kind of sleeve hill, cuff crease, loose middle sleeve shape, with various styles. Five types of lantern sleeves are introduced.

This style is a common lantern sleeve, with the upper and lower ends shrunk and tightened, and the middle expanded. The manufacturing steps are as follows:

① Draw the base sleeve according to the length required by the style.

② In order to match the wearing effect, the sleeves of this kind of lantern sleeves can be slightly inserted into the shoulder points, and the front and rear pieces can be trimmed into 1cm from the shoulder points respectively, while the sleeve hills of the sleeves can be added 1cm high.

③ Draw five parting lines on the sleeves. Usually, no parting lines are drawn on the underarm part, and no wrinkles are made, because they will be wrinkled by the hanging arms.

④ Draw a guide line perpendicular to the sleeve centerline on the sleeve pattern, cut it according to the split line, and open it along the guide line. The amount of opening is determined according to the amount of tuck, generally increasing the length of the original sleeve ridge by 0.5~1 times.

⑤ Due to the need for the shape of the lantern sleeve to be enlarged, it needs to be heightened at the sleeve hill and cuff. The amount of heightening is generally the same as the width of the opening at the middle of the sleeve.

⑥ Draw new sleeve ridge line and cuff line at the raised sleeve ridge line and cuff line.

6. Loose cuff lantern sleeves

The style in this figure is similar to the trumpet shaped short sleeve in shape. In order to make the cuff puff after being shrunk, it is necessary to add about half of the opening amount in the middle of the sleeve at the cuff.

　　 7. Lantern sleeves connected by cuffs

The design in this figure is loose at the lower end, and because the cuffs are not separated, the sleeves are more concise and neat. When making, pay attention to the position of segmentation and the size of relaxation.

8. Bishop's sleeve

The style in this figure is a long lantern sleeve with a large number of creases on the cuff. In order to make the sleeve beautiful, the width of the rear sleeve piece should be about one inch larger than the front sleeve piece. At the same time, the cuff should be extended with an unequal length of about 2-4cm. Draw an opening about 6cm long at the crease line in the middle of the rear sleeve, trim 0.5cm on both sides, and handle the opening with rolling strips. The length of the cuff is 2m around the wrist and 1.5cm around the door, and the width is about 4cm.

　　 9. All kinds of color sleeves

A. Winged short sleeve drawing

B. Hat sleeve drawing

C. Decorative sleeves

10. Dress sleeve

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（2）

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One piece sleeve pattern design

The raglan sleeves refer to the sleeves that are connected with a certain part of the body to form a special shape of sleeves, such as raglan sleeves, kimono sleeves, bat sleeves, etc.

Although the cut of armhole is omitted, the jumpsuit sleeve has the same fit appearance as the normal sleeve, and the shoulder line is smooth and smooth, so it is widely used in the design of jacket, overcoat and sportswear.

　　 1. Raglan sleeve

This style is a raglan sleeve with wide yoke and sleeves connected. In order not to affect the fitness of the garment, it is necessary to subtract the increased part of the sleeve from the corresponding garment piece. This style needs to separate the sleeve centerline and shoulder line because the shoulder yoke connected with the sleeve is wide. When the sleeves are opened at the corresponding sleeve hill position according to the sleeve centerline, because the original sleeve hill has a shrink, a processing method can directly remove the shrink of 1.5cm; The other is to raise the shoulder point by 2cm and align it with the sleeve hill without removing the shrinkage, and then smooth it with lines.

　　 2. Raglan sleeve

A. Ordinary ox horn sleeve

The style is to transform the shoulder straight line segmentation into an oblique segmentation line from the collar to the armhole, so that the shoulder of the garment body is connected with the sleeve, forming a visual effect of slender arms. Some sportswear and overcoats use this sleeve style.

Because of its shape like a cow's horn, it is also called a cow's horn sleeve. In foreign countries, it is called a raglan sleeve. The manufacturing steps are as follows:

① Divide the front shoulder line by 1cm and fill it on the back shoulder line. This is to put the shoulder line of the prototype back to the normal shoulder line of the human body. The center line of the prototype sleeve moves 1cm forward of the front sleeve.

② Mark the dividing line of the front and rear garment pieces from the shoulder, and keep the dividing distance from the front and rear garment pieces to the armhole equal.

③ Place the shoulder separated from the front and rear pieces on the corresponding front and rear armholes, so that two points B and D on the armhole coincide with the armhole arc, and the front and rear shoulder points A and C coincide with the armhole arc (or leave 1cm), and smooth the shoulder with a line.

④ Subtract the unnecessary crease (2-3 cm) from the top of the sleeve, and separate the front and rear sleeves according to the sleeve center line. Mark the matching number and longitude number.

B. Cowhorn sleeves with low armholes

The style is a kind of oxhorn sleeve with low armhole. Since the style line is divided below the armhole, when the front and rear garment pieces are placed on the corresponding armhole, they should be cut open. The manufacturing steps are as follows:

① The method is the same as shown in a in the figure, and the armhole is lowered by 2.5cm, and the garment body is widened by 2cm.

② Mark two dividing lines from the collar to the armhole of the front and rear garment pieces, and keep the dividing distance (about 2.5~4cm) under the armpit of the front and rear garment pieces equal.

③ Place the parts separated from the front and rear garment pieces on the corresponding armhole, so that two points B and D on the armhole coincide with the corresponding armhole, and the front and rear shoulder points A and C coincide with the top of the armhole (or leave 1cm, it can be seen that there will be partial overlap between the lower armhole and the sleeve.

④ To match the sleeve shape, cut the armhole pattern one by one from the position below two points of BD, and make a horizontal line 2.5cm below both ends of the sleeve ridge line. Open the cut armhole pattern in turn so that it just extends to this line.

⑤ Use the curve to smooth the open line, and draw the enlarged sleeve fat line again. The front and rear sleeves can be separated according to the sleeve center line, or they can not be separated. Subtract unnecessary creases from the top of the sleeve hill.

⑥ If you want to increase the amount of arm movement, you can cut and open the armpit part of the sleeve to reduce the sleeve height.

　　 3. Jumpsuit sleeve

This style is a bat sleeve with a wide sleeve cage. In order to facilitate arm movement, the shoulder should not be too oblique, but can also be made horizontal. The common drawing method is to raise the shoulder point by about 2cm and draw the sleeve center line from the shoulder line. There is no specific stipulation on the armpit fatness, which can be determined according to the design concept.

Cuff pattern design

　 1. Straight cuffs

　　 2. Double cuff

　 3. Split cuffs

　 4. Ring cuffs

　 5. Knight cuff

summary

Although the sleeve styles are ever-changing, there are two basic structural forms: sleeve type and one-piece sleeve type.

The sleeves are separated from the body, and can be designed into various colors. The sleeves are colorful and decorative by using segmentation, pleating, punching, waves and other processing methods.

The raglan sleeves are the sleeves that connect the sleeves and the body. They can be connected with the body as a whole, such as the national style sleeves, or partially connected with the body into a variety of raglan sleeves or raglan sleeves, so that the sleeves have the characteristics of elegant shape and easy to wear and take off.