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Brand Alert! Young People'S Fashion Tastes Are In Full Swing.

2020/5/21 18:11:00 0

Tide Card

In the age of subverting innovation, it may not be another Gucci that defeats Gucci, but something else.

According to the fashion business flash, Lyst, a fashion search engine invested by LVMH, has recently released a quarterly report entitled Next 20, which predicts the 20 emerging brands and cultural pioneers of Next. The industry experts from Lyst and Highsnobiety form an advisory committee, taking Google search volume, social media performance and online discussion as quantitative research basis, and conducting qualitative research based on expert opinions.

Jacquemus, Fear of God and Bode rank the top three brands. The other top brands include Peter Do, Arc 'Teryx, Amiri, Salomon, Needles, Marine Serre, Rhude, Maryam, Serre, Rhude, Maryam, 1017, 424, and Amiri.

Pan trend brands seize the attention of young people

Surprisingly, the pan trend brands almost completely captured the brand list and divided most of the attention of young consumers.

Apart from the French designer brand Jacquemus, Marine Serre, the Vietnamese minimalist brand Peter Do, the British designer brand Charlotte Knowles, the small shoe shoe brand Maryam Nassir Zadeh and Amina Amina and other typical fashion brands, the other top brands are almost related to the tide culture.

Fear of God, Amiri, Rhude, 1017 ALYX 9SM and other names have been widely known among consumers. Jerry Lorenzo, once a member of Kanye West's DONDA artists' brand, is now taking the lead in its personal trend brand Fear of God. In the first quarter of this year, Fear of God even launched a joint series with Italy luxury men's wear brand Ermenegildo Zegna, breaking the impassable gap between street and luxury clothes. Julie Gilhart, an authoritative creative consultant, commented that Fear of God has changed the way we view the whole trend.

It is noteworthy that, unlike Off-White, Yeezy and other fashionable brands that are closely tied to hip-hop culture, these new brands have further integrated their brand culture connotation into a variety of clothing skills and national culture, making the boundary between fashion brands and fashion brands blurred, and show the retro sentiments enveloped by the young people as a whole.

Bode, Needles and other brands further blurred the boundaries between high fashion and street apparel.

The list of third men's brand Bode has made hundreds of years of tablecloths, grain bags, Vitoria sheets and other large quantities of medieval orphan fabrics made into industrial style costumes. It not only embodies the concept of sustainable regeneration that young people highly admire, but also neutralizes the trend of high fashion and street apparel.

Rhuigi Villasenor, the designer behind the Losangeles menswear brand Rhude, also has a complex growth background. She has been transferred to Philippines, China, Hongkong, Saudi Arabia and Thailand to the United States. She has used different cultural elements to integrate street style, British punk spirit and high-end fashion, reflecting a sense of cultural conflict.

As a low-key local brand in Japan, Needles has entered the public view in recent years due to the heat of retro uniforms. Shimizu Keimi, the principal man, mixed the American style leisure with the traditional Japanese national style. In 2016, he launched the explosive butterfly sports pants with the brand AWGE of rap singer A$AP Rocky, and Needles became famous.

The list of professional outdoor brands Arc 'Teryx and Solomon Salomon is also closely related to fashion brands. The Arc 'Teryx special skirt appeared after the Off-White 2020 autumn winter show. The online media mention of the brand jumped by 540%. Salomon launched a joint series with Fumito Ganryu, Wander and 11 by Boris Bidjan Saberi to promote Google's search in the first quarter of this year by 71%.

Even the popularity of designer brand Marine Serre can not be related to fashion culture. Thanks to a large number of fashion street patrons using Marine Serre new moon tights and other star products in the fashion mix, as well as a very forward-looking end of life theme, the brand's social discussions rose 715% in the first quarter after the 2020 autumn winter series. Ida Petersson, the buyer of Browns, a buyer's shop, said, "Kanye West even went to the private showroom of the brand herself to make a private order." This undoubtedly confirms the current influence of Marine Serre in the trend.

Emerging trend brands bring new business logic.

In the recent five years of fashion culture invading the fashion industry, the main contradiction of the early industry may still remain at the creative level, which is the impact of street fashion culture on traditional fashion culture. However, with more and more brands accepting the trend design elements and letting street culture turn around, the more essential problems begin to emerge.

In this list, 20 pioneer brands have shown a clear consistency. They all have three starting points, one is the successful establishment of a prominent personality style, the second is the establishment of a community religion, and the third is to establish a pricing system that meets the consumption ability of the above community. More and more successful practices of the brand prove that "Chao brand" not only brings more street elements and dressing styles, but a set of operational methodologies that permeate the entire fashion industry.

Jacquemus, which topped the list, set up a more vivid personality, which is closely bound up with French rural customs at all levels. The founder, Simon Porte Jacquemus, came from the southern rural village of France. She started from scratch at the age of 19. Although she had no professional background and rich experience, she made Jacquemus the most successful designer brand.

Social media has obviously become the most advantageous tool for Jacquemus. It helps Jacquemus enrich its brand image and strengthen the connection between the founders, brands and the three southern France. From the visual presentation of social media, hot single width, eaves cap to the layout of the show, it builds a typical holiday atmosphere of South France, making the brand a representative of emotion and style. At the same time, Simon Porte Jacquemus has overlapped personal life and brand in social media, and has become the biggest opinion leader of the brand, and has gathered a group of loyal fans communities.

Jacquemus has established a distinctive style of southern style and has been continuously strengthened through social media.

The Next 20 report shows that Jacquemus's Google search volume in Europe and America has been as high as 183 thousand a month. 2020 the autumn and winter series show the combination of men's and women's wear, plus Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid, Liu Wen and other supermodels, which has aroused heated discussion on the Internet. The number of social networking sites and online media has soared 11.16 times after the show.

At the same time, Jacquemus has put "light luxury" and "price burden" into the brand personality. He has a clear plan for the brand. By controlling the selling price of the product and ensuring that the "show money is sold", the brand achieves a balance between creativity and business, and sales volume soared by 500% in four years.

Simon Porte Jacquemus said in an interview that simple design can help him save costs. If the cost of a single product exceeds 1000 euros, he will consider changing the design. At present, the price of Jacquemus products is between 200 and 900 euros. Although the brand has been increasing in price in recent years, Simon Porte Jacquemus has said that the price of the product has not gone up much more than the speed of brand expansion.

Peter Do, a synonym for minimalism, has undertaken the original Celine consumers.

Peter Do, the fourth place in the list, has also set up a distinctive brand DNA, which is firmly tied to key labels such as minimalism and gender - free wear. The Vietnamese designer has won the LVMH Youth Design Award semi final this year, becoming one of the most popular candidates. The data in the report show that Peter Do's popularity in social media has increased by 322%. Olga Karput, a senior industry veteran, believes that Peter Do has filled a niche of high-end women's clothing in today's market.

Unlike many of the big brands that are transforming into sustainable development, Peter Do's emerging brands have branded sustainability in the early days of its brand creation. Most of its works are inspired by retro classic archives and redesigned fabrics, and seemingly simple clothes cost a lot of energy to study fabrics and make fashion more sustainable.

After graduating from the US FIT in 2014 and winning the LVMH graduate award, Peter Do entered Celine and designer brand Derek Lam under the leadership of Phoebe Philo, and then launched its own brand in the early 2018. All five of his partners know Tumblr through social media, which reflects the new generation of designers who work differently and socially.

To a certain extent, the Peter Do that got the Phoebe Philo "true legend" just inherited the original Celine consumer. The perfect minimalist design style, which is supported by almost perfect cutting, reflects the training traces of Peter Do under Phoebe Philo. In an interview with The Face magazine, he admitted, "I learned everything from Phoebe." Clothes are clothes. They must be worn. I really met my target female group in Celine. Every quarter we will discuss what they are going to do, what they are doing and what their attitude is.

In addition to minimalist design style, Peter Do also reflects the values advocated by female designers such as Phoebe Philo and Stella McCartney in brand management. His views even escalated, reflecting the minds of the youngest group of consciousness awakening. In the five year plan of the brand, Peter Do hopes to develop a variety of product categories including lifestyle, and present a complete visual image through the form of a physical store.

Within two years of brand development, Peter Do personally supervised all aspects of brand control from design to social media. He is not eager to hold a large-scale fashion show, but is disseminated through brand catalogues and small static display. At that time, most of the topics created by Instagram in the brand are from mouth to mouth. "You can publish one million times on Instagram, but those who know you are more valuable. This is the community we want to build. "

The new generation of young designers represented by Peter Do is more pragmatic and concerned about expanding the influence of fashion to the public, not just fashion lovers. Peter Do believes that the foundation of brand is the concern about quality and time consuming tailoring. He believes that brand consumers need not be fashionable at all, as long as she likes quality and craftsmanship. "No matter how crazy I am about design, there must be really fit people to wear them."

In terms of pricing system, Peter Do has introduced a higher pricing system for its high-end women's clothing style and the original Celine consumer community than other pioneer brands. However, because of the brand's deep understanding of the community rather than blind speculation, this does not prevent the loyal consumers of the brand from paying the bill.

The success of Marine Serre also shows the outstanding advantages of brand personality style and community operation. Today, Marine Serre has become the representative brand of the topic of future Utopian society, climate disaster and doomsday.

The Marine Serre 2020 autumn winter series and the brand new year's Spring Festival illustrations released by the brand accurately predicted the reality of the global epidemic since then. Marine Serre has described her fascination with the world's status quo and uncertain future. "The post disaster era has arrived now. We have no choice but to adapt to severe climate change and uncertainty, focus on what is already there and what we create, and find a new way of life."

Marine Serre's use of social media and digital tools helps to establish an emotional bond with the brand community. The brand 2020 spring and summer series of advertising blockbusters and short films work with Actual Objects, an experimental creative studio, blurred the boundaries between numbers and physics through AI technology. The short films show the story of robots in the four post World communities. These robots are wearing Marine Serre landmark crescent printed costumes.

During the epidemic, Marine Serre was highly discussed on the one hand because of the mask products it had launched earlier. On the other hand, the brand also launched a large number of social media interaction initiatives, including issuing a group of models in the Instagram account, wearing a signature new moon tights for Yoga illustrations, so as to encourage people to keep exercising during home quarantine. The brand also works with dancers Nick Coutsier to broadcast live dance to achieve closer consumer interaction.

Contemporary young consumers get more opportunities to express themselves through social media, while luxury brands such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci and popular Champion, Urban Outfitters and other mainstream brands are more and more difficult to meet their needs of displaying unique tastes, so consumers begin to turn to niche brands and widen the niche of niche designers.

However, it is not enough to establish a distinctive design style. Behind the rise of new brands is a set of methodology which is created by the fashion brand, that is, instead of centralization instead of centrality instead of uniqueness. Jacquemus, Marine Serre, Peter Do, though not the trend brand, are undoubtedly affected by the trend of "tide brand", which embodies the same logic.

Why should luxury brands start to be vigilant?

Next 20 reports that "today's innovators no longer need support from traditional media, large retailers and celebrity endorsers, but emerging brands can now write their own rules. Although the brands listed on the Next 20 brand list are different in size, social concern, background and time of creation, they have found core fans in youth culture, challenging the blueprint for formulae set by super brands.

Despite the obvious disparity between individual brands and the luxury brands of Pyramid's head, the luxury brands have to be vigilant.

They are working together to divide the attention of young consumers and occupy more and more consumption budgets. The pricing of new brands may be lower than that of luxury brands, but the two consumers are not necessarily stratified. On the contrary, young people who have gradually taken the luxury brand consumption baton will be the same group as the new trend brand consumers.

In the fashion market, consumers are placed in countless indifferent choices. In fact, the fashion brand matrix of the fashion industry is far more than 20 brands in the report. There are also brands such as A-COLD-WALL* in the UK, Palm Angels in the US, Heliot Emil in Denmark, MISBHV in Poland, Ambush in Japan, and Hyein Seo in Korea.

The emerging trend brands are constantly moving to the market, and the competition and iteration between brands are even faster than the fast fashion industry. Although consumers are reluctant to be happy and old, loyalty is decreasing, but the growing brand of new brands has undoubtedly diluted the attention and profit of traditional luxury brands.

New brands have moved Luxury Brand cheese in the field of "cash cow". Luxury brands used to grasp the voice of "explosive bags", and are now being grabbed by a group of new designer brands.

WeChat public number LADYMAX how to make designer brand Telfar in explosive bag The 2 year sales doubled 16, "the hot American designer brand Telfar has increased its annual sales volume from $100 thousand to $1 million 600 thousand in two years with its Logo Tote Logo Tote Handbag. At present, the handbag is sold out at all platforms, attracting widespread attention from the industry.

Telfar handbags boost brand sales to $1 million 600 thousand in two years from $100 thousand.

With labels such as "no gender", "no race", "group" and "black music", Telfar has established a strong emotional connection with consumers. Telfar has expressed the hope that the brand can break the traditional fashion industry's use of the scarcity of consumers' psychology to drive the sales growth pattern. Consumers can find the "community" in the brand, and can feel for the first time a brand that can symbolize and represent them.

The "definition right" of luxury handbags is being taken over by a large number of emerging niche brands, and the latter may continue to grow. Ana Correa, deputy editor in chief of WGSN, shoes and bags, pointed out that fashion has become tribal, and every group of "tribes" has its own "it bag".

Under such a social and tribal structure, consumers' communication tends to be restrained, and more internal signals are shared by communities, such as the white thread of Maison Margiela, the pocket creases of Dior Homme, the zebra crossing of Off-White, and the armband of Stone Island.

In the article "after the epidemic, the Logo craze for luxury goods may be over", I predict that the trend of the epidemic in 2020 will accelerate or accelerate the outdated logo trend. This is not a good thing for luxury brands who are good at making logo craziness.

Big companies are challenged by small innovative companies. They are the basic laws of business development and are applicable to any industry.

A recent hot article, Adidas, is also dangerous? Citing Harvard Business School professor Clayton Christensen in the book "the dilemma of innovators," citing the analysis of "the dilemma of innovators", large enterprises are often defeated by innovative enterprises that do not know where to jump out or lose their original competitive advantage and market position.

"Successful tycoons are always good at continuity technology. They are good at improving their product performance or service experience in the current mode of making money, and maintain long-term profits. Disruptive technology is often mastered by market challengers. At first, challengers could only offer cheaper or more alternative products, but often possessed other attributes valued by some marginal consumers, thus opening up new markets. When enough experience is accumulated and enough investment is provided, the Challenger will eventually occupy the original market. Large enterprises are beaten by their experience of success. "

Louis Vuitton may not be afraid of a dark horse Gucci, but can not relax its vigilance against the ten Fear of God.

Source: LADYMAX Author: Drizzie

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