China'S Fashion Brand Has Gathered To Move Towards International Fashion Week.

Going to the four fashion week has become a required course for more and more Chinese fashion brands. This spring's four fashion week, the Chinese enterprises and designers to go to the show have created a new climax, but coincided with the domestic epidemic. Many enterprises have spent a lot of time preparing for the show, and the communication effect has been discounted. Nevertheless, the movement is still dazzling. Just after the end of the fashion week in New York, many people familiar with the brand ascended the show. Anta, Taiping bird, Lily business fashion and some famous designer brands are all in attendance. It is said that they occupy 1/3 of the total volume of fashion show.

In 2018, street China "Lining" set off a "national tide" in the fashion week of New York. From the incense wall to the wall, a record of 1000 pairs of sports shoes sold out in one minute was set up, and the stock price was also the highest in six years. In 2019, Bosideng, Jiangnan Buyi, Semir and other brands came to the stage, and Jiangnan cloth also invited a topic model - she was not only 70 years old, but also the mother of Tesla founder Mask. More and more Chinese brands seem to have found the key to fashion week.

Lining's fire has ignited the heat of the national tide and aroused the ambition of Chinese fashion brands to fight overseas. The Chinese clothing brand was tried by the small armed forces, and suddenly became a group army. It seems that the fashion show week has become a shortcut for brand advancement, but can it really work?

　　 1. How high is the threshold of the fashion show week?

China's clothing brand is on the international fashion week, and the earliest record dates back to 2006. Jifen brand, designed by Xie Feng, was invited to the official schedule of Paris fashion week.

For the clothing brand, the grandmothers Paris fashion week is undoubtedly the ultimate hall. The difficulty of climbing the four fashion week is gradually increasing: New York, London, Milan and Paris. The French Le Louvre Museum and dureli garden will always open the door to the best designers and the most successful brands. If you want to take a fashion week in Paris, the threshold is very high, the application time is long and the procedure is cumbersome.

Two years later, fashion designer Marco reappeared in the fashion week of Paris. No professional models were invited. A group of modern dancers danced under the singing of Mongolia singers, and two handicraftsmen from China demonstrated the weaving at the scene. Marco is one of the founders of the exception of women's clothing brands. Over the years, giby and the exception, although there are some iron powders in the small group, it seems that the distance from the famous brands is still very far away, or even farther and farther away.

Today's Chinese clothing brands seem to have found another way to open fashion week. From the beginning of 2018 in New York fashion week to last year and this year's Paris fashion week, Chinese brands frequently show their faces, behind which there is the same Trader: Tmall.

Tmall is an official sponsor of IMG in New York fashion week. The two sides have established a mutually beneficial cooperation to bring some Chinese brands to New York fashion week, which is called "China Day" China day. "China Japan" has held four seasons in New York fashion week. The participating brands include Lining, Taiping bird, Anta, CHENPENG and so on. Later, Tmall also independently produced a new project called "China cool", joining hands with the three fashion week of New York, Milan and Paris.

It's expensive to take part in a fashion show abroad. Take the New York fashion week as an example, the brand first needs to pay a sponsor fee to the organizer. The cost of the show is between $125 thousand and $300 thousand. Inviting big stars and red bloggers to cooperate with top public relations companies plus marketing communications costs will basically exceed the show itself.

There are only a few hundred spectators on the show. If they do not spread, they will go away. The purpose is to brand the brand "gold-plated", which raises the theme of the brand in China and enhances the brand image and premium capability through the aura of fashion week.

In other words, despite the overseas show, the goal is to influence the country.

　 2. Where is the designer?

In addition to the establishment of the latest London Fashion Week, the fashion week in Paris in 1910, the fashion week in New York in 1943 and the fashion week in Milan in 1967 are the result of the rapid development of the garment industry in these countries. Fashion week is basically a product launch and ordering meeting. However, with the rise of luxury brands and the appeal of designers, it has become a platform for designers to display inspiration and talent, as well as interaction and cooperation between designers and brands.

The top luxury brands that people are familiar with will be bundled with famous designers and achieve mutual success in T week of fashion week. The entry or departure of famous designers can even determine the rise and fall of a brand. For example, Gucci is turning from an old brand to a new style, which is created by creative director Alessandro Michele.

But it is embarrassing that for a long time, the four major clothing weeks became the main battleground of the domestic two to eighteen line actors to join in the domestic sale. In Milan and New York, I once saw the familiar actress dressed in an eye-catching fashion, and went to and fro in the field. Usually, these actresses will bring a multiplayer team composed of directors, photographers and brokers. In addition to some brand invitations, many of them will be able to get some famous brand show tickets through cattle, and finally create star stars and fashion week stars through photography and video. The great contrast of very black humor is that Chinese designers who should have been their main positions rarely have such a popular ostentation.

From a genetic perspective, apart from some small independent designer brands, designers' role in Chinese clothing brands is far less prominent than abroad. There are basically no brand names that have scale and capital strength. Even though many brands are high-profile fashion show activities in fashion week, it is difficult to see long-term cooperation with enterprises or become designers of employees. The relationship between many brands and designers is a temporary partnership between a married couple and a designer or artist, who collaborate in the series, such as the cooperation of Taiping bird in Paris fashion week and Angus Chiang. After the show, they went on separate ways, without mutual understanding or cooperation.

The independent designer brand lacks a lot of money and experience to make a show in fashion week because of the lack of money and experience. But because of the lack of sales channels and promotion costs, it is often only applauded by the industry, but it is difficult to pry sales, and the final result is always losing money. So many designer brands have abandoned this path after one or two times.

For fashion products such as fashion, it is hard to create a brand style without creating a designer who shapes the soul of a brand. It may not be a big problem to go on the market at ordinary times, but if you want to show up in fashion week, this will become an obvious disadvantage.

The core designers who do not represent the brand style can not build up the lasting influence of the brand. Some brands simply take shortcuts to combine with some popular cultural elements, such as Bosideng and star wars, the joint name of man Wei, the joint of Taiping bird and Harry and Potter. This series is in line with the trend of the young people, usually with good sales results, but it can not reflect the design level of the brand, nor has it accumulated the long-term development of the brand.

Looking at the brand of fashion week in recent years, it seems that only Lining and Bosideng win a win-win situation of brand and business. Many Chinese brands have followed up after Lining's national wave is booming. Why can Lining's narrative be internationally recognized?

Chen Lijie, the main designer of Lining fashion week in New York, is the main designer of Lining's Badfive, inspired by street basketball, promoting Chinese, basketball and street culture. Chen Lijie has worked in the company for 8 years, and he knows the appeal and culture of the brand very well. There is also a casual reason. Because the preparation time of fashion week is very tight, the final show is selected by designer from Lining's existing "big goods". It is also the accumulation and inheritance of brand design style for many years.

That is to say, the "China Lining" series on the show ground is closely related to the spirit of the Lining brand. The identity of the founder Lining is well known. Audiences do not feel too strange or unexpected when watching the show. At the same time, it also accurately grasped the two elements of feelings and trends from design, and the combination with popular elements is very mature. Such a display is not only consistent with the long-term planning of the brand, but also catching the popular demand of fashion week.

The success of Bosideng is also closely related to its emphasis on design. The Chinese style of New York fashion week has made its own style. The star series of Milan fashion week is also amazing. In collaboration with designer gurtier, we can see that Bosideng is walking along with the designer. If this pattern can be sustained by designers, it may be able to move closer to international fashion brands.

And most of the brands that go abroad show that they still stay in sales orientation. That is, buy and show, 360 degrees of marketing ideas emerge in an endless stream, but excessive commercialization has been criticized by fashion elite circles. During the fashion week, Chinese brands were advancing vigorously while many big brands were withdrawing.

For Chinese brands, whether they are gilded or show up in the international fashion week will still be tested by the market. When you are attracted by a crowd of spectators, the things you bring out are uncommon. The heat will not be converted into sales, let alone the promotion of brand image.

More than 10 years ago, people used to think very naturally that with the strong industrial foundation of China's textile and garment manufacturing industry and the unparalleled huge market, the emergence of a large number of Chinese fashion brands should be within reach. But the cruelty of reality is that the overall brand influence of Chinese fashion brands is on the decline. The important reason is that the four fashion week hasn't really been opened up in the right way by Chinese brands.