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Guochao Elements Into The New Chinese Aesthetic Clothing Design

2022/4/24 14:58:00 71

New Chinese Style

   With the rise of national style, national fashion elements are integrated into fashion design. The "new Chinese style clothing" full of modern and fashionable feeling has been sought after by many international fashion lovers.

   The concept of "new Chinese Aesthetics" is also popular under the esteem of generation Z.

Just at the end of March, Taobao and WGSN, a global trend forecasting agency, released the "spring and summer trends report 2022", which summarized the eight major spring and summer popular trends of this year, among which the most attractive one is the "new Chinese style".

As a result, there has been a wave of "new Chinese style" dressing fashion in China at a lightning speed, and a popular word "new Chinese girl" has appeared frequently in social media recently.

Through the search, we found that generation Z, such as xiaohongshu and instagram, are used to sharing their clothes on social platforms. The number of searches and views of "new Chinese style" and "new Chinese style" are very high.

Although there is only one word difference between "new Chinese Aesthetics" and traditional Chinese aesthetics, it is far more popular than the latter. So what does the word "new" mean?

What is new Chinese style

The concept of "new Chinese style" can be regarded as a sub category of national tides.

Different from the traditional style of Han and Tang Dynasty, "new Chinese style" combines traditional craft with modern style, which not only has Oriental traditional charm, but also has bold and avant-garde style. Traditional Chinese elements such as Tang suit, Han suit and cheongsam are used in the traditional craft, while the western style garment structure is added in the pattern. The style of modern style is used for reference to bring forth the new.

As early as the 18th century, the special term "chinoiseri" appeared in Europe to describe Chinese art style. In 1997, Christian Dior design director John Galliano boldly used embroidery and cheongsam cutting plate as inspiration to design a show dominated by Oriental elements.

The most famous dress in the whole series is the dress that Nicole Kidman wore to the 69th Academy Awards ceremony. Strictly speaking, this dress has no stand collar and buckle, and it is not a cheongsam.

But the tailoring and side slits still show the soul of cheongsam. The silk fabric with luster, embroidery at the neckline and tassels on the back have both Chinese charm and John Galliano's exclusive romance. At that time, it was also named "Oscar top 10 red carpet dress".

Many foreign designers have also been inspired by John Galliano's series, and have begun to try to innovate and integrate Chinese clothing. The mysterious oriental elements are gradually favored by European fashion houses.

Armani outlined the Chinese style charm with Chinese color matching and light gauze on the "charm of bamboo" show in Gaoding in spring and summer 2015. The delicate bamboo leaves and ink, light green and light purple blend, the elegant and advanced sense of women's interpretation score is not bad.

Prada2017's spring and summer series remolded the introverted and elegant cheongsam, with low-key and warm color, full and smooth cutting, and remaining charm.

   The interpretation of Chinese style clothing by famous designers also lays the foundation for the "new Chinese Aesthetics" in the future. "New Chinese Aesthetics" is not a pure pile of elements, nor a simple superposition of patterns. It is because it carries the accumulation of Chinese traditional history and culture. When these traditional elements with great power collide with modern aesthetics, it is easy to highlight the eye-catching and unique of the wearer.

   Compared with the traditional Chinese style, "new Chinese style" is more creative and artistic, which coincides with Gen Z's fashion attitude of pursuing individual expression. With the emergence of local designers represented by traditional Chinese design elements, the momentum of "new Chinese style" is even more out of control.

New Chinese style under local brands

   Uma Wang

UMA Wang, whose real name is Wang Zhi, graduated from Donghua University. After working for several years, he went to St. Martin in central London for further study. She has long black hair and the iconic simple and elegant dress, which is deep and full of the unique charm of Chinese women.

After returning from London in 2006, Wang set up his own studio. Three years later, Wangzhi changed its brand to UMA Wang, in order to let more people know about "design belonging to China".

The first fabric that UMA is good at using is simple fabric to express the tension of fashion. When it comes to cashmere fabrics, the first thing I think of is woolen sweaters without a sense of design. Wang Zhi wants to use traditional fabrics to try various experimental and Avantgarde methods, and to break the traditional understanding of this material.

She printed Qing dynasty women and beetles on cashmere, using fabrics to do contemporary avant-garde design, and the two also have a strong visual impact, which has become the characteristics of UMA Wang.

Wang Zhi was born in a family of traditional Chinese medicine, so she was influenced by Chinese culture since she was a child. However, this also let her know that Chinese culture is reserved and implicit, so she does not need to publicize her personality too much. Different from Guo Pei's gorgeous and bold style, UMA Wang's Chinese elements have always been expressed with elegance.

At the invitation of white in Milan in 2010, UMA Wang learned that he would publish his works abroad. As his first appearance in Europe, Wang chose the Chinese Tao Te Ching as the theme.

In addition to the theme of Chinese culture, Wang also uses "blank" to create space, which she believes is also a typical oriental culture.

UMA Wang is well known in China because he was named by Jiang Wenqin as a fashion designer for the film "evil can not suppress justice". Zhou Yun's costumes in the film are all derived from UMA Wang's design, which looks simple and elegant, but not dull.

Since then, Zhou Yun often wears UMA Wang's clothes when she attends the red carpet or in her daily life. She brings with her a kind of Oriental beauty temperament, unique beauty and a little mystery, which are extremely consistent with the Oriental aesthetic core followed by UMA Wang, and the style complements each other.

As a representative figure of Chinese designers, the Chinese style brought by UMA Wang to the world does not overemphasize its own Chinese style, but blazes a new path, and walks out a road of spreading the east wind to the West belonging to UMA Wang in an implicit and graceful way. It integrates the eastern and Western fashion styles to a proper degree that can be accepted and loved by both Chinese and Western consumers.

          Yuhan Wang

Wang Yuhan, a designer from Weihai, Shandong Province, has successively studied in Tsinghua University, New York Institute of visual arts, as well as the undergraduate and master's courses of Central Saint Martin.

The undergraduate graduation series won the second place of L'Oreal's young designers, and the master's series was appreciated by Sarah mower, director of the British Fashion Association and chief critic of Amerian vogue, and recommended to manri, Milan, Italy, as a women's fashion designer.

At the age of 8, he began to practice landscape painting and copied the painting of beautiful women in the painting Ode to a dream of Red Mansions by painter gaiqi of the Qing Dynasty, which had a profound influence on Yuhan Wang. In her design, people can see that the soft and elegant style from the Oriental women is also in line with the cutting mode of Oriental clothing.

In 2018, Yuhan Wang founded the brand of the same name and headquartered in London. He is good at creating a world of East-West tenderness with lace, embroidery, printing and tulle.

In Yuhan Wang's world, clothes are rebellious, fluid, poetic and romantic, and women's temperament is inadvertently revealed. The beauty with strength and low profile is contained in the clothing, never compromising.

Yuhan Wang explores Oriental feminism and integrates Western cultural elements. Try to erase the soft and strong boundary in people's hearts, so that people can experience a different kind of aesthetic art and create a space full of artistic conception.

Autumn and winter 2021 series with Yuhan Wang's "women in landscape" as the theme. There are many elements of pine and deer in the "late pine, green, square and deep." pine represents eternal prosperity in traditional Chinese paintings; The sound of "Lu" is the same as "Lu", so it is often accompanied by auspicious and auspicious luck. Chinese landscape painting and women as the keynote, convey the delicate and firm emotional core of women.

There is a special sense of identity between Yuhan and Yuwang in modern literature.  

          Samuel Gu Yang

Samuel Yang, the designer of Samuel Gu Ì Yang, is from Guangdong Province. In 2015, he graduated from the master's degree in women's clothing design of Central Saint Martin, and founded the Samuel Gu Ì Yang brand in London.

Samuel Yang has lived in London since he was 18 years old. The urban atmosphere and cultural precipitation in the West have greatly influenced Samuel Yang. However, under the impact of such diversity and globalization, he has given him extraordinary creative inspiration and made him constantly think about the relationship between traditional culture and the changing environment.

In Samuel Gu ì Yang's design, the elements of Chinese and Western clothing are very natural, not only has the Western clothing cutting technology, but also contains the unique artistic conception and style of Oriental culture.

In each season, Samuel Gu ì Yang describes the different looks of Oriental women in fashion language, either soft or neat. Women's multiple selves can be projected and found resonance.

Many Chinese elements, such as Chinese button, slant placket, unique tailoring of stand collar and Western style, Chinese water show and irregular pleat, perfectly integrate the cultural tradition into the design concept and contemporary design language. Samuel interprets the Oriental women in old Hong Kong and old Shanghai from a modern perspective.

Samuel is good at conveying the connection and inner relationship between Chinese and Western culture through the use of fabrics, tailoring and silhouette. It is through the use of different elements of eastern and Western cultures that Samuel breaks the stereotype of traditional Oriental women.

As a representative brand of "new Chinese style", Samuel Gu ì Yang has not only become one of the famous brands in Shanghai Fashion Week in recent two years, but also successively appeared on the covers of "volume wallpaper", "t magazine" and other magazines, and was worn by star models such as Hui Yinghong, Ju Xiaowen, Du Juan and Liu Wen.

Today, when the "national tide" is in power, Samuel Gu ì Yang's romantic and introverted Oriental beauty is also trying to get rid of the single stereotype of Chinese elements, so that the novel and modern Oriental beauty is loved by more people.

          M essential

Ma Kai, the founder and design director of M essential, had a subtle interest in making clothes with his mother, who was a tailor. When he applied for the college entrance examination, he chose "fashion design" from all five intended majors.

After graduating from the fashion design department of Tianjin Academy of fine arts, Ma Kai chose to stay in domestic enterprises to accumulate some market experience. After that, he continued to study at the London Academy of art and became an independent designer after returning home and launched his own brand.

During his work, Ma Kai joined the not fashion project, and had the opportunity to work with Yaosi Yamamoto and his Japanese team. This cross international experience also gave Ma Kai a deeper understanding of "Oriental Aesthetics".

After establishing his personal brand, he positioned the core of M essential as "exploring the contradiction and unity between contemporary Oriental Aesthetics and modern lifestyle", combining the things in the oriental culture with the needs of modern fashion to create a new image with both classical beauty and modern sense.

In the latest series of M essential, Ma Kai takes "integration" as the theme, integrates oriental elegance with contemporary female style, and injects free style into the Oriental taste of thick ink and light color.

The fabrics of this series are mainly raw silk, jacquard, yarn and velvet, which are beautiful and pay more attention to comfort. Pure hand embroidery has become the finishing touch of clothing, represented by bamboo and orchid, presenting oriental elegance.

New Chinese style in the eyes of generation Z

Chinese culture has a history of 5000 years, and its wisdom still has much to learn from. Its eternal classics are also the fundamental source of the charm of the new Chinese style. The culture and aesthetics inherited by the wisdom of the times give designers inexhaustible source of strength.

After Chinese local sports brand Li Ning appeared in New York Fashion Week in 2018 with "Savvy" series, "national trend" and "new Chinese style" began to appear frequently. Brands such as UMA Wang, Samuel Gu Ì Yang, etc. are also emerging with their own individual styles, and are more and more popular among Chinese people and even the world. The strong growth of these local brands also makes the new Chinese style become a hot trend.

"Chinese style" is becoming more and more popular in the international arena, even when Chinese brands are competing for the right of international fashion.

Generation Z, a group of young consumers, grew up in an era of national prosperity. Their cultural self-confidence and national identity are much higher than those of other groups, which makes more and more young consumers more willing to try this style and become the main consumer group of the "national tide".

Generation Z's pursuit of the new era consumption concept of individual taste also makes the more creative and aesthetic concept of "new Chinese style" with its contemporary aesthetic style, the concept and unique design they love.

To attract the current young consumer groups, a large part of the new Chinese style can cause emotional resonance, to a certain extent, become everyone's emotional sustenance. In the age of selfishness, we are also emotional introspectives. When we consume, we will still be moved by the unique emotional concept behind the products. As the style representative of emotional concept, new Chinese brand has become one of the reasons why many consumers like it.

From the point of view of local designers, "new Chinese style" not only represents clothing products, but also indicates the development and rise of a new oriental aesthetics blending East and West. Carry forward the traditional Chinese culture in the way of Chinese people, tell Chinese stories and enhance cultural confidence.

The rise of "new Chinese style" is a typical manifestation of the rise of Chinese culture and the enhancement of cultural confidence. At present, although the national tide flooding is very serious, there are still many brands in the process of innovation. We have reason to believe that with the constant upgrading and maturity of the national trend, it will break away from the illusion of novelty and symbolization, and become a trend not only in China but also in the world.


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